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Topic: Fell Off The Chart, oh oh! (Read 2584 times) previous topic - next topic

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #15 –
Fram is a shaging joke, and you being a mechanic by trade should know much better than to even mention them.


I do know better  ONCE AGAIN ALLIED SIGNAL STANDS BEHIND THERE PRODUCTS. I have had numerous sales men show us the inside of there filters and compare the differences. They all say there filters are the best. Also many OE filters are fram marked with names like SUBARU. So how is one to know which ones are made by which company. Also some claim oil and Filter changes at 12000 or more and on a yearly basis. This is another reason to change oil and filters at 3 months and or 3000 miles as we both agree on. With that no worries 302

BUT once again there are millions of FRAM filters sold and in service all over the world. Who am i to judge i just go with what i know or have experienced.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #16 –
Wow, last thing I wanted to see by starting this thread--was a war of words between who helped me.  I did not mention FRAM because I have used those filters in both Fords for eons---maybe +15 years (Please no mockery!!).  The two Fords---the '88 T-Bird and the '89 Towncar are both still healthy and active.  From all the flack I have read here and elsewhere about Fram, I began to look at other filters when I could.  It so happens that Fram is widely sold here and also prominent at Walmart.  So....I have the Fram numbers in my wallet for total of 3 Fords---which I also maintain---a Subaru and a Taurus.  What began my comment --- Walmart is indeed a handy place to pick stuff, like this, up--when I go there---and I was surprised to see the '80s dropped out from the listings.

Fram annoys me because they have a "grip" material around the base which interferes with tools (a filter socket) I now use.  Since I had cut back filter change intervals,  the filters are more of a struggle to loosen---they become frozen.  I recently bought a set of those filter sockets because the Subaru filter is practically inaccessible by hand or slip wrench----you have to turn it off with a ratchet and filter base socket.  This being said--I was interested in a filter which has no grip material on it.  As far as oil change intervals, I will moderate my stance and make more changes on the old cars--even though they are driven less these days.  The T-Bird sees maybe a 100 miles a month because there are 2 of us and 3 vehicles we can use.  Since I am now old (just applied for SS),  my arm strength cannot do battle with stubborn filters --my elbow pays for it a couple days later.  I also dread the thought of having to ram a screwdriver through a full filter to get it off.

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #17 –
Actually that grip material is great and you do not need a filter wrench at all. Look at the sides of a FRAM filter and you will see a couple of arrows, They are Reference points for tightening the filter. Filters should only be tightened app 3/4 of a turn Or a max 1 turn After the gasket ishiznitting the block or . naturally pre-filled with oil on the gasket or O RING.  That black coating allows instillation with out a wrench. With filters that do not have the black coating i wrap some seat tape around the filter for ease of instillation. I never use a wrench to install a filter unless it is on a diesel and a very big one. Over tightening a filter is very bad to say the least. This is easily found out on big rigs as they are normally overtightened. I took some photos of a couple of filters i opened up this morning and i will post them. Then you can make the decision on filter quality.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #18 –
Yeah, don't put them on wrench tight....you'll have hell to pay to get 'em off.
As Tom stated, if you can put some oil in the filter before putting it on so you won't have a dry start, so to speak. I never put mine on more than hand tight, and even then, it's usually a struggle to get them off, thankfully on the Mountaineer, it's pretty easy to push the lip of the airdam/under bumper plastic over and get a filter wrench in there for removal.

Also, put a dab of clean new oil on the seal before install....keeps from sticking on the next time you do an oil change. Also, check your old filter to make sure the seal ring is on there when you remove it....bad things can happen if you accidentally leave it on the engine, then install a new filter on top of it.

And...didn't mean to cause a drama here, but like I mentioned, I had a Fram filter failure on my tractor a few years ago...thank god it was right there in plain sight where I could see it, or I would have had a ruined engine. No more fram stuff for me.
I'd rather pay a little more now, and not a lot more later, to put a spin on their silly catchphrase. If fram works for you, good deal...here's hoping you never have any bad luck...as I did.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #19 –
Check this out and you decise

FRAM 36 PLEATS and all paper




Baldwin much better filter 48 PLEATS and metal end caps. Also a nice spring holds the filter in place

You be the judge THANKS

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #20 –
Oops, No---I have only used my hands to tighten a filter and always coat the rubber seal with motor oil before installing.  I have used Frams because they have been the common filter sold in many stores here.  Perhaps I overtighten them but I always check the diagram on the filter case.  The PH-8 shows 3/4 to 1 full turn I believe.  I was probably more on the full turn end of the chart.  The pain in removing is the filter socket will not fit over the Fram grip material most of the time.

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #21 –
I buy motorfcraft filters at walmart.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #22 –
Quote from: Haystack;413870
I buy motorfcraft filters at walmart.

 

Probably the best choice, I need to pick up a few due to now owning four vehicles that actually run(or at least soon will)which use the FL-1A... Somehow I seem to have a abundance of the FL-820S for the 4.6L...

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #23 –
Question.  Other than the lack of the anti-drain back valve in the FL-1A, will it thread on and function properly in place of the FL-820S... if there is room?

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #24 –
Quote from: hwy73;413908
Question.  Other than the lack of the anti-drain back valve in the FL-1A, will it thread on and function properly in place of the FL-820S... if there is room?

The FL-1A has a anti-drain back valve and no can't be used for a 820 because the FL-1A threaded opening is smaller with std threads, the 820 is metric...

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #25 –
What other filters are metal end caps, that  I can easily get?  Surely Baldwin isnt the only one.
Mike
 

Fell Off The Chart, oh oh!

Reply #26 –
Quote from: mcb82gt;413935
What other filters are metal end caps, that  I can easily get?  Surely Baldwin isnt the only one.

 
About any of them except for the low buck Fram...

Your engine will be more than happy with either a Motorcraft or Pure One Purolator, excepting for maybe a Mobil 1 filter that came with a oil change special, those are about all I use...