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Topic: subframes (Read 3575 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: subframes

Reply #15 –
Quote from: Tbird232ci
while we're on this topic...

ive always that tube would be much stronger for subframe connectors than standard square tubing?

The spreadsheet I posted lets you play around with tubing dimensions...but my previous disclaimers still apply.

Re: subframes

Reply #16 –
I think round tubing would definatley look cooler IMO.  But I guess as long as it's functional looks don't really matter.  I'm going to talk to a guy who owns a welding/fabrication shop this weekend and see what he thinks.  I might end up either making my own or having him make some for me if the price is right.  With the price of steel right now I doubt if it will be very cheap!  WIth my car being lowered I definately want to make sure I'll have plenty of clearance as well.

 
Quote
just purchased a set of Mustang connectors for my 87 XR7. I really wouldn't recommend them to anyone with a bird or cougar. They are long enough to hit front and back frame rails, but I don't think they have enough overlap to significantly strengthen the car's structure


So the question still for me is, are Mustang subframes a different length?  I need to find a fox stang and measure it up and then compare that to my T-bird.  What is the wheelbase on our cars anyway?
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Re: subframes

Reply #17 –
Not to answer my own question but from what I can find using google it looks like fox stangs had a wheelbase of about 100.4 inches while cougars/tbirds were 104 inches.  This would explain a difference in subframe connectors I guess.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Re: subframes

Reply #18 –
Another difference is where the rear subframe comes out of the torque box.  On the Mustangs it is level and on the Tbirds, the subframe droops down a touch before rising up.  Alot of the Mustang SFCs extend back over the rear subframe a touch. On A Tbird you can't, which is why I did mine so they would extend back a couple extra inches onto the rear SF.  Also, if you're wanting to make use of a mid-span crossbar under the front seats, the stud locations are different between the platforms too.  I recommend this mid-span support, regardless of what mat'l you use for the main tube.

Another addition to consider is adding some reinforcements out at the rocker panels.  I have some 1" square welded along the inside of the pinchweld on mine.  It adds some rigidity and even more can be had when you tie it into the SFCs.  Another bonus?  You can jack up the car from any point along the rocker panel and set jack stands more outboard to make working under the car less congested.

My car is caged...so that helps tie things together too ;)
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Re: subframes

Reply #19 –
Quote
Another addition to consider is adding some reinforcements out at the rocker panels. I have some 1" square welded along the inside of the pinchweld on mine. It adds some rigidity and even more can be had when you tie it into the SFCs. Another bonus? You can jack up the car from any point along the rocker panel and set jack stands more outboard to make working under the car less congested.


A  good idea.  I hate trying to squeeze under the car when working under it.  I wish I could afford a lift!  BTW Chuck W we need some more pics of your silver car :bowdown: ! 

I'll let you all know what I come up with this weekend at my buddies welding shop.  Something else that makes me consider making my own is that I have access to a production line that uses powder coating...so I'm thinking some custom subframe connectors with red powder coat :evilgrin: ...I love it when a plan comes together.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Re: subframes

Reply #20 –
Quote
Something else that makes me consider making my own is that I have access to a production line that uses powder coating...


Sounds like a money maker to me!  Time for you to go into business.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Re: subframes

Reply #21 –
Quote from: Paul Flockhart
Sounds like a money maker to me!  Time for you to go into business.

Heh...only when folks will actually come off their wallets :giggle: Otherwise you're just stuck with parts.

If you're going to powder-coat them you maight as well tape off the areas where you're going to be welding (to avoid having to grind the areas later and minimize the potential damage from the heat from welding) and paint those areas later.

I've been busy under the hood of the Tbird here recently.  That and trying to get the side mouldings cleaned up for refinishing  :yuck: I want to have it moving under it's own power when I take it back out for him to paint the cage after I weld it in....


Back to the topic at hand.  Really ANYTHING you do on a Fox chassied car in the realm of stiffening is going to make a difference.  You'll be surprised even how much of a difference you'll notice driving the car out of the driveway w/ SFCs for the first time...
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon
 

Re: subframes

Reply #22 –
Here are couple of poor pictures of the SFC's in my t-bird

These are the laser cut brackets Chuck supplies. This is a good deal, as you can just source the tubing local and save that shipping.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/286291390/292283624FkNYFs

For what you can see, here they are isnstalled with the brackets

http://community.webshots.com/photo/286291390/324071716mXEmVM

This was a GREAT improvement in the feel of the car.

Bob Myers