subframes

Topic: subframes (Read 3577 times) previous topic - next topic

subframes

May 23, 2005, 12:07:07 PM

OK I need some subframe connectors. I tried looking at old posts with the search function but couldn't seem to find anything. What subframe connectors do you guys recommend. I want weld-in types for a decent price not too expensive.

Re: subframes

Reply #1 – May 23, 2005, 01:15:58 PM

I have heard that pretty much any 79 to 93 should work. can any body conferm this?

Re: subframes

Reply #2 – May 23, 2005, 01:52:01 PM

Nope, there to short.

MM makes some for 83-88 T-Birds, or you can make them yourself if money is the issue.

Re: subframes

Reply #3 – May 23, 2005, 02:07:45 PM

I've thought about making my own. I just figured Mustang pieces would work but when you think about it I guess they would be different. Anyone have pics of one's they've fabricated themselves?

Re: subframes

Reply #4 – May 23, 2005, 06:00:56 PM

40bob.com

Re: subframes

Reply #5 – May 23, 2005, 06:39:44 PM

79-93 Mustang ones are not too short, had a set on my 87 XR7, fit like a glove. :D

Re: subframes

Reply #6 – May 23, 2005, 07:02:35 PM

My opinion is... if you're going to install subframe connectors...put on full length ones. Problem is, nobody makes them.

Re: subframes

Reply #7 – May 23, 2005, 07:30:46 PM

Global West sells full length TBird SubFrame connectors. Nearly $200 though.

EDIT: Suppose I should post a link. *duh* Global West - TBird SubFrame Connectors

Re: subframes

Reply #8 – May 23, 2005, 07:36:37 PM

I couldn't remember of anyone having mustang subframe connectors and I was not 100% sure if the wheelbase was the same or not. I guess if some of you have them then mustang pieces would be the way to go. I do want the improvement in handling but I also would like to get them to strengthen the frame to handle my motor buildup planned for later in the year. I've heard some real horror stories about twisted subframes on fox-bodies before. I would imagine you get what you pay for as the more expensive products are probably made of thicker steel than others. So does anyone have pics of their subframes on a t-bird or coug?

Re: subframes

Reply #9 – May 23, 2005, 08:49:09 PM

Ah, I had forgotten about the Global West offerings. I can't believe MM makes full lengths for Mark VIIs but not Tbirds.

Are the Tbird GW subframes cylindrical? I'm not big into cylindrical subframes. They may sport an increased moment of inertia in the y-axis, but the small weld area leads a lack of shear between the subframe and the connector, allowing decreased stiffness compared to a std. rectangular subframe connector.

I made a spreadsheet to calculate x/y moments of inertia and the polar moments of inertia (resistance to bending). These are only for a straight piece of tubing. Once you add bends, these numbers mean nothing. Also, the relative stiffness of the attachments play a large part in the total stiffness gained from the subframe connectors. The only real way to calculate the torsional resistance increase is to test the whole car.

Re: subframes

Reply #10 – May 23, 2005, 09:25:46 PM

Did somebody forget that ChuckW makes them....? Or at least, used to. Chuck?

Re: subframes

Reply #11 – May 23, 2005, 10:58:27 PM

not to mension, kenny brown. even tho the site is down thats where i got mine.

Re: subframes

Reply #12 – May 24, 2005, 01:37:27 AM

Quote from: EricCoolCats

Did somebody forget that ChuckW makes them....? Or at least, used to. Chuck?

Yeah, I used to...not enough interest for me to pursue them any longer though. I do have a few sets of the lasered crossbars and hardware I used (as shown in the pic). Someone can use them with their own main tube material (2" wide) if they so desired.

KB has pretty much dropped all the Tbird stuff, and if they have any SFC's left I'd be surprised. They're only 4' long anyway. Since I have my drawings for the crossbars, they won't be doing any more. The main tubes I used were 5' long.

EDIT - pic attached of what mine looked like....

Re: subframes

Reply #13 – May 24, 2005, 10:13:46 AM

I just purchased a set of Mustang connectors for my 87 XR7. I really wouldn't recommend them to anyone with a bird or cougar. They are long enough to hit front and back frame rails, but I don't think they have enough overlap to significantly strengthen the car's structure. My car is going to be a serious drag racer, so I need all the stiffness I can get. I am either going to get a full length set or just buy some heavy square tubing. I have not looked yet, but I think I could get some 1.5" chromoly channel that would be much lighter and still stiffer than the regular 1" cold-rolled steel that most sub-frame connectors are made of. With the extra strength, I don't think I will need to bend the tubing to hug the body the whole way. I can just burn it fast to the front and back frames, and if there is room, maybe tie them together side to side in a few places.

Re: subframes

Reply #14 – May 24, 2005, 10:27:50 AM

while we're on this topic...

ive always that tube would be much stronger for subframe connectors than standard square tubing?