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Topic: Headlight problems. Help Needed! (Read 2146 times) previous topic - next topic

Headlight problems. Help Needed!

Reply #15
Quote from: Live Fast;282732
when i turn the lights on all the way on the dash i get nothing but the parking lights.
if i pull the high beams they come on but will not stay on. after i let go of they go right back off.

If you "pull the high beams" with the main headlight switch OFF you will get the high beams until you let it go.
This is "Flash to pass"
Once again this is a different circuit to the high beams.
The main headlight switch is bad.

Headlight problems. Help Needed!

Reply #16
Let me qualify what I said.
I see you have an 88. So in your case the flash to pass should only work with the ignition on.

Headlight problems. Help Needed!

Reply #17
Do the 87's and 88's have different circuitry? The EVTM pic is from my '87 book.
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Headlight problems. Help Needed!

Reply #18
Quote from: Quietleaf;282759
Do the 87's and 88's have different circuitry? The EVTM pic is from my '87 book.

Cars with the flash to pass relay need the ignition in run to pick the relay.
My 84 has no relay and will and will flash without the ignition in run.
The 85 EVTM shows the relay so it looks like most of our cars have the relay.

 

Headlight problems. Help Needed!

Reply #19
I like pics.  I really, really do.  :D

All power for the "normal" headlights (high and low) goes through the dimmer switch. "Flash to pass" is a separate circuit with a relay, that is activated by a set of contacts inside the dimmer switch.

In pic #1, the round contacts in the upper left are where the power goes through the dimmer. High beam is diagonal one way, low beam diagonal the other way. The 2 vertical tabs just below the pads are the contacts for "flash to pass", pushed by the plunger sticking out of the green block (the high-low toggler thingy).

The "rocker" switch in the lower left of pic #2 is what flips back and forth to give high- and low- beams. The "contact bar" is lightly spring-loaded, and rides in the plastic block, as seen in pic #3.

Over time, dirt and general corrosion contribute to a bad connection, which causes the contacts to heat up, often enough to melt the plastic block the contact bar is in. The block gets mushy, the bar is pushed into the mush, and it sticks there, creating an even worse connection. If it's particularly mushy at the time, the contact points can get coated with melted plastic, resulting in no contact in either position, and even a high-low switch that doesn't "click" any more.
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