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Topic: Killing Duraspark Boxes (Read 8093 times) previous topic - next topic

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #30
so... When I put a ballast in where should I put it?  just before the coil?  or does it need to be inline with the ignition module also?  The diagram is confusing me.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #31
I am guessing you are using the hot in both srart and run wire that originaly went to the coil in the EEC IV setup.

Put the resistor inline with the coil but not the module. You will not have the resistor bypass for easier starting.

To wire it like the diagram you will have to find a hot in run only wire and a hot in start only wire.

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #32
I'll do some research on were to locate the wires you need if you want to wire it like the diagram.
The 84 manuals cover the duraspark cars built for export.

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #33
This is killing me.  Now I'm back to thinking "why do I need a ballast for the coil, how does that decrease heat to the module".  I've made another diagram.  Basically, I'm asking if the ballast is restricting the tach wire voltage which goes to the green wire in the box.  Is the green wire what's causing them to die?

The 2 bad modules failed Low RPM test.  If that helps.

If I have a starter solenoid with the S and the I terminal on it can i use the S for the start bypass? 

Right now I have both the coil and the red module run wire are tied into the same circuit.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #34
I'd follow this diagram instead:
1987 TC

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #35
oops, forgot the pic, lol  Here it is:
1987 TC

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #36
Alright.  That looks ALOT simpler.  I've got to go to work but soon it will be wired up like that.  I'll do as jcassity said and "end this for good".  Only one way to find out and that's to throw the ballast in there. 

Thank you jcassity, HAVI, and Softtouch.  I'm sorry that I asked for help but was stubborn to accept the help that I was given.  Sometimes I can be closeminded.

-Johnny C
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #37
No problem here, the end result is to just get it right.  You don't want to be ruining ICM's everyday, lol.  Good luck.  Oh, and I'll be rewiring my car's ignition in the future, too.  In about 3 years at this rate, lol.
1987 TC

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #38
your fine,, the only thing that has happened on this thread is progress.  In addition, it makes a good sticky to!  post back results and if its all working fine ,,,****AND*** lasts,, then its sticky worthy.

Im linking this thread to my DIY LINK.


ALSO!!,, make sure you take in consideration the wattage of the resistor you buy.  I would buy a big fat one.  Big fat resistors mean they can take the heat.

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #39
If all else fails, I've come across another option.  GM's HEI module, with a TFI coil, and Duraspark Dissy.

http://www.bronco.com/cms/node/25

84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #40
Alright, So far I've still been running this same duraspark box.  This is the third one, and it's an autozoner brand. 

She hasn't failed me for a few weeks so i haven't had the urge to put a ballast inline.  So that kinda throws out the whole "needs" a ballast thing.  I'm going to keep running this box like it is til it gives me trouble.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

 

Killing Duraspark Boxes

Reply #41
Update:  Put the freaking ballast in!  That's the only way to be sure.  Just got done being stranded for 2 hours.  Wasn't fun.  Went through 3 boxes and 1 coil.

So the ballast acts as a capacitor and that'll keep voltage spikes down.  So I figure the reason i just blew three boxes and a coil was because of a voltage spike or something.  Anyway, changed the coil and I put the ballast on.  I'll let you know if she gives me anymore trouble.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics