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Topic: Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :( (Read 3458 times) previous topic - next topic

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #15
KUDOs to you my friend........
-'87 turbo coupe with only 740 ORIGINAL miles.... :dunce:
-'86 turbo coupe, 5sp. Cali Car.......:cool:

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #16
Quote from: Shevretti;191594

TurboCoupe50, was it a V8 Granada? My black 2-door will be a nice sleeper with that Tremec tranny and 351W (or maybe a 5.0 HO) :D


No it had the honkin' 200... The engine blew up with 197K mi...:D 

I've seen street driven carbed 5.0 Granadas running high 12s, though not lately...

The 351 was a option in '75 only I believe...

Tom

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #17
Hey! I got my Trick Flow pan today :) and already installed it. Of course at least 1/2 of fluid was on my clothes after this job :hick:
But as ussual I messed something up (good thing is that I have a drain plug). After filling it up it and switching thru the gears on idling engine the level was under the crosshatched area on the dipstick. So I filled it up again with the rest of fluid left (don't remember how much was it) and it's on the top of crosshatched area now after switching thru the gears again, but I wasn't driving it. So it's full on cold now. Should I drain it to be at the bottom of crosshatched area? If so, how much should I drain to get low on crosshatched area?
Thanks!

P.S. I'll take some pics tomorrow after checking for leaks.

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #18
If I'm asking about "crosshatched" dispstick area, think it's a good time to ask wht does the holes in the dipstick indicate? I don't have owners manual for my T-bird and I dunno where to find that info.
As I remember well one of the holes (the lowest one) indicates add 1 quart, right?

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #19
The fluid level should be in the crosshatched area at operating temperature. after driving 20 miles or 32 km.

The level should be between the middle and top holes at room temperature, 70*F or 21*C.

Check on a level surface. Start the engine and move the gearshift selector through all the gear positions allowing sufficient time in each position to engage.

Then check the level in Park with the engine idling.

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #20
Quote from: softtouch;192225
The fluid level should be in the crosshatched area at operating temperature. after driving 20 miles or 32 km.

The level should be between the middle and top holes at room temperature, 70*F or 21*C.

Check on a level surface. Start the engine and move the gearshift selector through all the gear positions allowing sufficient time in each position to engage.

Then check the level in Park with the engine idling.


Interesting I new at operating temp to keep it between the xxx area but did not know about the holes.
I try and keep it as close to the top of the xxx area as possible.

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #21
I drove 100 miles with new transmission Pan installed. The latest trip was 60 miles trip to my girlfriend's grandmother. I checked the fluid level after the trip and it was 1mm over the XXX area, think it won't hurt. I topped it up with 6 liters of Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Think it was a good idea to install the TrickFlow pan - epecially becouse of the way it looks :D
Innes, as you can see in the pics the new deep pan isn't lower that the exhaust pipe, so there shouldn't be any ground clearance problems.
The best thing is - the drain plug :)

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #22
I know it's not a correct section for this topic, but this thread already has lots of offtopic stuff, so I thought I'd share my sad story here.

I always say that good cars break down near home, or at home and I think I was right. :) Brake line exploded in my T-bird just after I switched from Park to Drive on the driveway. I heard something popped and than the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. First I thought it was a brake cylinder that popped cylinders, but after I drove to the garage (using e-brake) I walked around and noticed that right wheel inner fender is sprayed with brake fluid.

To be honest, I already got the brake lines and wanted to replace them before the new year. One of the lines (the one that popped) had badly broken insulation. Think it shouldn't pop anyway.

Good thing is that... it happened at home after 100 miles of highway trips around 80mph with last 60miles trip yesterday and it was nice, dry and sunny here today, so I washed my T-bird well and took it for a trip around the block to dry it underneth - so everything is clean, not covered with mud or something and it's pretty nice to work on it now.

Bad thing is that it happened at all, and that it sprayed some brake fluid around so I had to wash it well with brake cleaner before the fluid messed up the paint.

I was just wondering if there are any precautions before I replace the brake line? Is there something I should check/do before I continue? I don't want to end up looking for new calipers or metal brake line, that's why I'm asking.
Thanks for reading! :)

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #23
looks like the rubber hose blew and not the metal line! You should get one for each side. Common for the rubber to deteriorate and break. Your lucky you were not driving!!
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #24
Would be a good idea to rebuild the complete brake system... But assuming you aren't going that route, I'd recommend using a vacuum pump to pull the fluid through the system... Guessing you can get the small hand pump type in your country...


At the least you may want to think about replacing the master cylinder... Often when a old cylinder is "Floored", it stirs up corrosion, which cuts the rubber cups causing them to fail in a short time...

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #25
Think it's not a bad idea to replace the master cylinder, but I'll be probably able to do that in the Spring. It got cold here again and I was able to keep 50F in the garage.

I've replaced that brake line today and will work on the other side on Monday. I wonder if I may notice any difference in braking after this job? Guess old rubber lines were swelling a little?

If it didn't run out of fluid after the line exploded should I bleed rear brakes too anyway?

I was also wondering if the brake system is based on metric components in my Thunderbird?

BTW. Isn't it a cast aluminium master cylinder body? It shouldn't rust like the old iron ones?

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #26
Virtually all parts on your car with the exception of the engine will be metric(I believe the 3.8 is std, never owned one)... The 2.3 is metric and the 5.0 is std...

Old lines were probably swelling at least a little, possibly may have a better pedal feel...

Doubt the rears need bled if the MC didn't go dry...

Good point on the MC being aluminum, if its still OK in spring likely it will be OK... Just remember it could fail in a month or so...

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #27
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;192886
Virtually all parts on your car with the exception of the engine will be metric(I believe the 3.8 is std, never owned one)... The 2.3 is metric and the 5.0 is std...

Old lines were probably swelling at least a little, possibly may have a better pedal feel...

Doubt the rears need bled if the MC didn't go dry...

Good point on the MC being aluminum, if its still OK in spring likely it will be OK... Just remember it could fail in a month or so...


3.8 is mix and match but mostly metric

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #28
You're going to need to carry around a flashlight and a mirror on a stick so you can show it off everywhere you go.LOL.I've wanted one of those pans,I just can't get myself to spend the money on one.I did hook up a cooler though.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

 

Deep AOD pan - installed (pics) / Broken brake line :(

Reply #29
Hey nice pan I love mine too
http://z71tahoe-suburban.com/iboard/index.php?&act=garage&CODE=14&type=garage_mod&id=2810
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/