Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Topic: Sudden loss of oil pressure. (Read 9126 times) previous topic - next topic

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #45 – July 24, 2014, 10:46:52 PM

That is the bottom line when building an engine. Everything has to be checked. Push rod length has to be checked and adjusted accordingly. never assume anything when assembling an engine. You are lucky that you did not bend a valve. With the cam profiles i run a mistake by not checking preload is disastrous. But i am puzzled as to why you had compression then it went away. Oil pressure will not do that to a lifter. Heat will after it warms up but not a lot. Seems strange that you if in fact do not have correct preload the compression will never be there. Something is not correct but you have to start with preload. Check it out and adjust as necessary. normally i use .035-.040 preload on Fords. Good luck

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #46 – July 24, 2014, 11:03:06 PM

The lifters are pumping up by that point. With too much preload, I think that it's bleeding the lifter down. I released the pressure from the tester after the first test, when the needle swept up to 100 right away but the the next few times #4 came around, there was no change. I then performed the test again, and there was no compression. Repeated an hour later and got the same results as the first test, 100psi on the first pass of #4, nothing after.

I really didn't think of preload as a thing. I don't do many builds, and when I have, there hasn't been so much machining, or such a large increase in cam. In school, we only worked on OHC engines, and believe me, I never forget to check shim clearance on a head with DAMB or hydraulic lash adjusters, It just didn't occur to me this time. I'll have it apart Saturday, and I'll measure my preload. Then there will be no more mysteries.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #47 – July 25, 2014, 11:14:55 PM

Smoothed out nicely, but something's still not right, there's no power, and I feel like it's misfiring the ignition, which is to say, under load, the missing is way worse. I might try some plug wires. I'll have to measure the FRPP ones I have first.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #48 – July 26, 2014, 12:11:03 PM

Can you borrow/fix your camera and post a video of it running?

Does it do this both warm and cold?

The MAF housing appears to be the MAC version which is basically the same thing as a C&L. I'm wondering if the calibration tube that came with it might have something to do with it. C & L specs the metering tubes for 30 pound and larger injectors to run a cone style filter directly on the end of the meter. For 19's and 24's there are tubes for 2 different styles; fenderwell CAI/stock box OR a cone on the end of the MAF housing. You're running a 30 and the air box; which according to what is on the C&L website will make you run a bit rich. You may have read the 70 post saga myself and Lou have started on the CAI's......

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?6564-Cold-air-intakes&p=436022#post436022

http://www.cnlperformance.com/MAF_info.php?section=15

It doesn't sound like it's your issue, but it might be something to look into and could possibly be compounding your issue thereby making things worse.

FWIW -- I ran another brand MAF from a certain well known company. The car ran like total and would barely idle. It came off and went in a box, sat in my garage for a while, and then.....who knows I think I tossed it. Wish I hadn't as I could have experimented with it a bit to see why it ran bad considering it was supposedly calibrated for my setup.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #49 – July 26, 2014, 01:10:24 PM

This is my kit, with options selected: Stage 2 30lb, Automatic, Factory airbox.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #50 – July 26, 2014, 01:57:45 PM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;436436

This is my kit, with options selected: Stage 2 30lb, Automatic, Factory airbox.

Ah, OK.

I didn't see that they had the option for stock airbox. Good to know. Does this denote for a change in the metering tube? I'm curious......

From what I see on their site and what I've heard; Fiveology has done their homework. Theirs is the only kit I'd consider if I had to do a MAF conversion at this point in time as the old Ford Racing kit is no longer to be had.

I'm watching this thread with interest. Good luck!

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #51 – July 26, 2014, 06:00:58 PM

So, today I removed the air bleed plate from my IAC (if you'll check my previous threads, you'll find I had installed this as part of a TSB kit for a hunting idle, which turned out to be a bad IAC), and reset my base idle screw, that helped the idle a ton, it also got the tps in range (I had previously set it up, but the time apart must have messed it up). This improved power, but what really helped was to give more timing. The light I used at the shop was borrowed, older than me, and apparently messed up. I set timing with MY light (I don't keep it at the shop, because I never use it there) to 16 degrees base, I cleaned the spout terminals, and on road test I felt like I was almost there. There's still an ignition based misfire at mid throttle tip-in, feels like a bad wire or plug. What are the other P head guys here running for plugs? I'm running Motorcraft agsf-32fm, which is what parts says is the stock plug for Explorer, but I keep thinking my higher compression (10.64:1), larger cam set-up might not be happy with them. MAF seems to have changed the playing field when it comes to dialing in the engine. Feedback?

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #52 – July 26, 2014, 09:25:12 PM

When I was running GT40P heads I was running AGSF-32-C spark plugs. They were the copper equivalent of what you are running now. I gapped them at .050 and ran 16* initial timing.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #53 – August 15, 2014, 10:30:12 PM

So, I pulled the upper intake and valve covers, turns out number 4 intake rocker was backed off and nearly fallen off. I could have sworn the wrench clicked on each and every when I assembled it. Oh well. Running better, but still shiznits the bed when loaded.
I pulled all the plugs, and closed the gap to .040 and cleaned them, I also installed a new dipstick tube, and it was during THAT little operation (which necessitated removal of the driver side header) that I found #7 plug boot burned through. I installed a new boot and a shorty plug on 7, buttoned it up, and now it seems happy. I can still feel that the timing isn't advancing quite right (I suspect that the calibrated MAF disrupts the load calculation), but I'd say it's around 90% happy, and I'm about 95% happy with it. I crossed 500 miles on the engine yesterday, and I think that while the car is put up for the winter I'm going to get a Quarterhorse for it, install the stock calibration tube in the MAF, and set the PCM up for the 30# injectors instead of spoofing it with a MAF calibration. I think it'll be happier that way.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #54 – August 19, 2014, 12:39:29 AM

I just noticed that the MAF sensor you have is a "F2VF" part number. That was stock on 94-95 Mustang 5.0s. The 89-93 Mustang 5.0s used a "F1ZF" MAF sensor. The calibration tube plus the wrong sensor might be throwing things off a bit. You can run the "F2VF" sensor with the stock 70mm MAF housing from a 94-95 Mustang with an A9P but putting that sensor in a "calibrated MAF" housing can do some weird things.

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #55 – October 23, 2014, 01:37:40 PM

Whatever happened with this? You get it smoothed out?

Sudden loss of oil pressure.

Reply #56 – October 23, 2014, 01:47:20 PM

Mostly. I found yesterday that my water pump is dribbling, but that's what I get for reusing it. I drive the car everyday, and I'm still where I was at last post. The tune needs refinement, but I need to get a tuning module for the pcm over the winter before I can see to that. First oil change coming up soon, then I'll have to put it away for the winter.