3g wire delete help Reply #15 – July 23, 2012, 12:17:21 AM Fellas, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I for one like the looks of Foe's cable routing/terminal method...I will do something like that when/if I ever put the Sport battery in the trunk. Yes Tom, anyone that's worked on a Ford more than 10 years old knows the posts on a top post battery are of differing sizes..as long as his solder/crimp terminal jobs are strong, what's the issue...the battery terminal itself can and should be replaced every so often, due to corrosion, and such. (I'm hard on most of mine, have had 2 sets on my Sport since 2009, and the car has not racked over 30 miles or so in that time..)I can say by looks alone it'll beat ANY of those stamped steel wal mart-esque cheap pieces of shiznit they want to sell you nowadays. I have on one the Sport. It's a joke at best. The solid lead pieces ARE better, even though they tend to corrode more if you leave them unattended for periods of time. Quote Selected
3g wire delete help Reply #16 – July 23, 2012, 04:36:12 PM Quote from: beast50;394774With the wire delete for the 3g upgrade, how far has everyone gone with this? I dont like the idea of having a couple of capped off hot wires sitting in my engine bay, especially under my battery tray.The bundle that the orange and black wire goes to, there are a few larger gauge yellow wires and some fusible links that all connect to the main harness. Is this for the cars computer?I am not clear on what you want to wind up with. Are you deleting the EEC and going carb? Anything else? Quote Selected
3g wire delete help Reply #17 – July 23, 2012, 05:44:00 PM Quote from: beast50;394774there are a few larger gauge yellow wires and some fusible links that all connect to the main harness. Is this for the cars computer?No. Those supply voltage to the electronics of the car, the relays, and other stuff. I've also had some issues with the 2 different dash harnesses, and have paid a (toasty) price for my troubles. If you're not very sharp with car electrical, I'd leave them to someone who is....of course, I can't make heads or tails of an EVTM...so what do I know. Quote Selected
3g wire delete help Reply #18 – July 23, 2012, 08:46:12 PM Just curious if you have a trunk mounted battery do you run tuns of wires back to the trunk??? Or do you establish a BATTERY post distribution point under the hood???? Just me could be wrong again!!! Quote Selected
3g wire delete help Reply #19 – July 23, 2012, 10:22:47 PM I think that if I were to trunk mount (an idea I'm not in love with), I'd have to run a body ground on the spot, but also an engine ground. For positive, I think i would want a large gauge single cable to run to the solenoid and leave the underhood cabling otherwise stock. I've never set up a trunk mounted battery, I'm just going by what I figure I'd need. And i would be nervous about routing 2GA through the firewall, but I guess with convoluted tubing and a good grommet I could feel better. I'd run positive up the driver's side sill and ground back down the passenger side. Right now, my alternator cable is on the battery terminal, but I suppose I'd tie it to distribution at the solenoid, but that could get crowded pretty quick, so I might add a positive junction lug so that I could send battery primary over to my PMGR starter and also to the solenoid by an 8GA, I could probably tie the alternator to the lug as well to help with crowding. So trunk battery to distribution lug underhood, to starter, alt and solenoid. I think that's the way I'd go. Body ground in the trunk, and engine ground up through the firewall probably to a bellhousing bolt or to a starter bolt. You can't forget ventilation, hydrogen gas isn't something I'd like to store in my trunk, so maybe a sealed box with a vent hose, or better yet a 2" duct. Don't know where I'd vent it to though. That's a lot of extra holes. For now, I think I'll keep it all in the engine bay. Sorry to ramble, just typing and thinking at the same time. But I guess, yes, I'd use and under-hood distribution point, seems like it would be hard to get away from. Quote Selected
3g wire delete help Reply #20 – August 05, 2012, 03:32:25 AM Quote from: TOM Renzo;394770THEY SUCK CASE CLOSED. Just me most likely wrong again.I use crimp ends that you fill with solder.First the cable ends you posted do not make a good connection. By bolting them with a 1/4 20 i do not consider that a good connection. Second they are one size fits all. Top post battery's have 2 different diameter posts. That means the connectors are different for pos & neg. When you use those connectors you are installing a connection with a joint at the worst possible place. Below is a good set of connectors that you first crimp they are wire sized for the correct application and they are clearly marked POS & NEG. After crimping with the recommended tool i flow solder in the cavity then shrink tubing for the approperate color. Red for POS And black for NEG. The connectors below are the only way to do it. This will give you a resistance free connection and they dont look like a cheese quick repair. Note below the two connectors are clearly designed for pos and neg application along with the proper wire size for a perfect connection. Note they are clearly marked Pos and neg. Just me could be wrong again your right in so many ways!!! Quote Selected
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