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Topic: took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW (Read 3340 times) previous topic - next topic

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #15 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;393152
That head is OIL FOULED!!
That's my thoughts as well Tom.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

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“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #16 –
Yeah i know they could have been changed in the car for $450... yep and now i know that about the gas lol.`I just shipped it out to boport not that many days ago and heres what bo is doing do it.  Grooved cam bearings, cam seal, Viton valve seals, Hardened exhaust seats, Valve guide, freeze plug and the stronger $69 valve springs
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #17 –
That is going to cost me around $700 including shipping. I figured i should spend $250 more and have a better more reliable head.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #18 –
Quote from: SR71blackbird;393453
Yeah i know they could have been changed in the car for $450...

Or, you could've done it yourself for about 1/10 of that cost.  Valve seals are pretty easy to do.

Seeing as it's all apart now and off at Bo's, it's a non-issue. 

Stop running cheap gas in a boosted car.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #19 –
I dont have any of the tools to do that. I also heard you need to fill the chamber up with air so the valve dont fall through and i dont have an air pump.
And now i know that. I learned
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #20 –
You can get fittings that thread into the spark plug holes, hook an air compressor (with an inline air dryer, best) to it, and voila...valves won't fall in. Used that setup several times over the years. Never had a problem. :)

I imagine you could make one pretty easily if you knew the thread count and pitch of your plugs...hope this helps for the next time.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #21 –
Quote from: SR71blackbird;393569
I dont have any of the tools to do that. I also heard you need to fill the chamber up with air so the valve dont fall through and i dont have an air pump.
And now i know that. I learned

Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;393571
You can get fittings that thread into the spark plug holes, hook an air compressor (with an inline air dryer, best) to it, and voila...valves won't fall in. Used that setup several times over the years. Never had a problem. :)

I imagine you could make one pretty easily if you knew the thread count and pitch of your plugs...hope this helps for the next time.

I've used the "rope method" of holding the valves many times with much success.  Just need a couple feet of about a 3/8" rope, and feed it into the plug hole while the piston is down, then bring it to TDC (or close to it).  You don't need much rope in there, just enough to keep the valves from moving when you compress the springs to remove the keepers.  Goes pretty quickly.

The "special" tools come in when you are compressing the valve springs.  You either need to buy or make something for that.  I have the old (hard to find) KD tool, but many guys have made something that works well enough.

Anyway, again it's a moot point since you sent the head off to Bo for him to do some extra work for you.


None of this stuff is rocket surgery, you just have to get in and do it.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #22 –
WOW 450 to change stem seals on an assembled engine!!!! I have to raise my prices i guess. Normally on a 2.3 i get 200 Bucks that includes a gasket!!!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!
 

took off my cylinder head and WOW. PICTURES NOW

Reply #23 –
Yeah that was a ford quote i got. No way i was paying that much so i just took it off. There is also a oil leaking problem somewhere from the head as a well.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke: