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Topic: Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved) (Read 2013 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #15 –
maybe thats where i got confused. almost every bonded shoes ive seen where cheapos. maybe if good quality ones were more common, i wouldnt as reluctant to recomend them. personally i have seen a higher percent of bondeds fail then riveted. but Sicks right, if you buy a good quality one u should be fine. dont cheap out, brakes are kinda important to have when u need them
1988 Thunderbird sport
2004 Ford F150 Lariat
2008  Chevrolet Cobalt Sport
2007 Suzuki DR-Z400S dual sport/Supermoto
1988 Thunderbird LX - sold
1988 Mercury Cougar XR-7 with GST kit - gone

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #16 –
That was my other concern -- that the pad had come off the backing.  The noise is so loud though...  I don't know.  I'm driving the truck until I work on the Bird this weekend so I'll let you guys know what it turns out to be.

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #17 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;192598
If you lift the car,pull both drums off,and use one side as a visual reference while you change the other side.I use a small pair of vice grips and a screwdriver to change mine.


oh my goodness....This is the response I was looking for. The only reason I read this whole thread.   
 Take one side off at a time, refer to the other as your reference. Do it right the first time, that way you don't have to do it again. Bendix is a pretty good brand of brakes. A little pricey but I guess worth it. Old car, old drums.....why not replace them? One less thing you will have to worry about. 

Have fun. Don't fear the springs.;)

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #18 –
Well the thing is, the drums are supposed to be new.  The guy before me put new shocks, struts, springs, tie rod ends, ball joints, drums, and shoes (and pads in the front).  That was 7 years ago but he only put 3,000 miles on the car in that time.

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #19 –
Put the car on jack-stands and pull both drums as previously stated...take both drums to your local Napa store(or other parts store that cuts drums) and have them cut...it shouldn't cost more than $25....back when "ABC"(a.k.a. American Battery Company) was still around here in NJ, they used to cut rotors or drums for $6/ea...I miss those days...stupid AutoZone taking everything over.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #20 –
Pulled the drum -- turns out the shoes came off the backing (they are not the riveted style).  Ordered 4 new shoes and a drum to be delivered tomorrow morning.  Thanks everyone!

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #21 –
Got the car on the road today (finally).  It's my first oppurtunity since we got a little weather this weekend... Anyway, everything checks out.  I put on 4 new riveted shoes and RR drum and she stops like a charm.  Thanks for everyones help!
 

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #22 –
I never heard of bonded brake shoes coming apart before.

Bonded shoes were a big improvement over riveted about 40 years ago. I have seen riveted linings come loose but never completely off.

When I had a 61 Anglia I had to buy just the linings and rivet them on myself. English cars were about 10 years behind American cars, technology wise.

I am surprised you can still get riveted shoes.