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Topic: Last valvetrain ? I promise... (Read 2632 times) previous topic - next topic

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #15
actually for testing that valve guide wear and tear,,,,,,,USE MOTOR OIL.  i dont know what i was thinking. 
to get the desired result, use the oil that is gonna be in the motor.


That assembly grease is generally too thin for my liking.  Thats my opinon.  You can wipe it off your hands easy, therefore its easy to wear off.

warning, this is my opinon only but if you get a little bottle of the red lithium,, it will last you for years cause just a frew drops will do.  Pretty sticky stuff.

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #16
Quote from: jcassity;159874
actually for testing that valve guide wear and tear,,,,,,,USE MOTOR OIL.  i dont know what i was thinking. 
to get the desired result, use the oil that is gonna be in the motor.


That assembly grease is generally too thin for my liking.  Thats my opinon.  You can wipe it off your hands easy, therefore its easy to wear off.

warning, this is my opinon only but if you get a little bottle of the red lithium,, it will last you for years cause just a frew drops will do.  Pretty sticky stuff.


Alrighty, sounds fine to me.

Any idea on those o-rings, should I just disregard them?


Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #18
The heads are all together now and the driver side head is sitting on there....

Only thing hold me back is ONE OF MY HEADBOLTS ARe MISSING!!!

Despite having them in ziplocs I wound up loosing one...

If anyone has one wanna ship it? :hick:
It'd be great if yuou lived near me, but I only know a few people on this board live in florida...
Wish me luck!

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #19
Quote from: 88XR7;159982
The heads are all together now and the driver side head is sitting on there....

Only thing hold me back is ONE OF MY HEADBOLTS ARe MISSING!!!

Despite having them in ziplocs I wound up loosing one...

If anyone has one wanna ship it? :hick:
It'd be great if yuou lived near me, but I only know a few people on this board live in florida...
Wish me luck!


You're better off with new head bolts all around. I wouldn't re-use the old ones as they probably won't hold too good......
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #20
Quote from: thunderjet302;160028
You're better off with new head bolts all around. I wouldn't re-use the old ones as they probably won't hold too good......


Well, the haynes manual says that it's  not required, but I know it's not always right...

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #21
I believe the factory bolts are only good for one go around. I'd rather use new head bolts anyways as the old ones probably have some corrosion on them. Cheap insurance to keep the head gaskets in place.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #22
Quote from: thunderjet302;160045
I believe the factory bolts are only good for one go around. I'd rather use new head bolts anyways as the old ones probably have some corrosion on them. Cheap insurance to keep the head gaskets in place.


Well, of course I would prefer to NOT re-use them.

However, the haynes does say they are not required to be replaced and with my extreme time and money restraints, this will ave to do for now.

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #23
Quote from: 88XR7;159878
Alrighty, sounds fine to me.

Any idea on those o-rings, should I just disregard them?



they go under the black umbrella seals.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #24
Quote from: 88XR7;160093
Well, of course I would prefer to NOT re-use them.

However, the haynes does say they are not required to be replaced and with my extreme time and money restraints, this will ave to do for now.



Nothing wrong with reusing them there not TTY bolts.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #25
Seeing as how head bolts are torque to yield, I believe that they are more susceptible to stretching and breaking. I can't say that I would trust the Haynes manual, I've found that they can be wrong about some things. Check here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP%2D154%2D3601&autoview=sku

For $40 (granted I got the right part) It's not terribly expensive and would be good insurance down the road.
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #26
the iron heads dont have tty bolts, most aluminium ones do.  You could go buy new ones, but then find out the new ones are TTY while your old ones were stronger.  Either way is good advice, i just wonld bother with it myself in your situation.

also, for a tighter fitting head or seal on the head gasket, lay your head bolts out in the sun or get them warm / hot.
this will effect your torque in a way that compensates for the prior stretch they were under.  when they cool off to match the the temp of the motor(which im sure is nice and cool in the garage), they will pull down on the head sealing better.

leaving your heads sitting down on the concrete floor gets em nice and cool so therefore they shrink in size to some unknown value.  Warm/hot bolts added to a nice crisp cool head will make for a tight fit when the temps even out after assembly.  Plus when the motor warms up, things should expand and seal up even better.  This type of thinking is typically overlooked insurance down the road and doesnt cost you a dime.

If you think about it,, usually people will say to go around and snug up your head bolts one more go around after the motor warms up because things expand.  In a perfect world, you would not have to do this if your heads were put in the deep freezer for a few hours while your bolts were put on hot.

This same process applies to the removeal and installation of a standard drive flywheel ring gear.

dont forget to silicone your shorter head bolts as these pass through the water jacket down in the block.

 

Last valvetrain ? I promise...

Reply #27
ok,, another thing,,,
you never asked and im wonder why so ill tell you what you did not ask yet.

the right orientation of your head gasket puts the TWO larger water port holes to the rear of the engine.  This means one headgasket is flipped upside down from the other.  I think the RH side lays down as instructed but the LH side lays in such a way that you cant see the word "FRONT" anymore.  cant remember if i have this backwards or not.

Anyway,, its also a good opportuinty to port match yoru head gasket water jacket holes at the triangle shaped areas in between cylinders.  notice the little tiny circle holes that dont match the big triangle ones in the block and head.

if you dont have patients and dont give the rear intake seal (cork) time to dry sitting on the block,, and you fu@$ it up cause it slipped on you, NAPA sells a better quality gasket material that is thicker.  You get a 1/2 square yard of it for about 6bux.