Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

At first I thought it was a spring shim(to increase pressure) but it looks smaller...

You using a mix of seals??? If so aren't they reversed??? You want the Perfect Circle on the intake, so it doesn't suck oil past the guide...

yeah, like tom said, you have it backwards.  the cap type seals go on the exhaust and teh snuggly round blue one goes on the intake.

some kits will come with too many of the hood types so dont be worried about coming up with 8 extra of those.

it would be nice to have the blue type you have there on both stems because you really dont get the chance to do that later on unless your good at undoing the sprint / cap/keepers with the head still on. 

Did the shop ask you to also send your valves to them?  that would have been nice of them to determine if the guids had excessive wear and would make you want to use the blue types on both stems.

for the hood type seals,, stick them on each exhaust valve stem. 

stick the snug blue ones on the intake.

get some red lithium.

if you wanna freshen up your seats,, get or borrow some of these,,,,,,
made by neway

Do I slide the hood style ones over the guide?
I am freshening up the seats with valve grinding compound and working them in.

ok
and another note on quality to check your guides the shade tree mechanic way.

get some real thin oil and coat the valve stem and guide.

stuff the valve up in the hole.
now,
push the valve stem down till its flush with the gude.
press your finger down over the guide and valve stem
now with your finger over top of the guide hole and stem reach and pull on the valve itself

start to pull on the valve while holding your finger good and tight over the guide hole

now,, let go of the valve end
the valve should "boing" or get sucked back up into the guide.

what you just did is check the guide for good clearance.
if the guide was worn, then the valve will not suck back up into the guide.

thats a shade tree way of checking and most shops do that as well if they want to.

the reason why i said to use thin oil such as 3in1 and such is this,, If your valve was sucked back in (holding a good vacuum) using thin oil then its gotta be good enough when regular motor oil is in there.

also, if your lapping by hand, eyeball your surface you are cutting and stop when the ring around the valve is nice and even all the way around the valve. 

there should be three angles visible but your likely to only see the 45deg one.

you can lap one at a a time then take out the valve, wipe off the compound and inspect the area i mentioned.

my heads were a bitch cause my 1.94's were soooooooo  close to the spark plug hole.  Caused me a lot of problems in the beginning. Im still down due to other more responsible things to do with a few spare dollars at the moment.

please dont forget the red lithium i mentioned,, that stuff is more sticky than pine sap and wont wear off quickly.  your gonna need that protection on those valves since they are bone dry now plus your adding grit and sandy substances to the mix.

Also,, if any ,, and i mean any valve is not so easy to get in or was sort of a bitch to get out,, that means the rocker mushroomed the end of the valve just enough to increase its diameter up where the keepers are.  If you noticed any of that then before you install them, use a real fine flat file to "debur" the valve stem up on the end around the edges.