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Messages - Ramos617

1
Engine Tech / Re: Oil pan issues with windage tray
Yeah, I'm thinking about just pulling the tranny regardless. I think I want to try ATF in the 3550 since it has carbon lined synchros so the synchromesh is getting dumped.

I would like to install everything as 1 piece and just bolt up the mounts and exhaust once I'm under the car, Just thinking about lining up the trans to the engine out of the car makes it worthwhile.

2
Engine Tech / Re: Oil pan issues with windage tray
Right on, I'm thinking that's the way to go as well.

I wish it was as easy as just sticking in a T5 but I'm running a 3550 so she's got some weight lol.

I also do have one of those engine levelers but it's not that nice, just a harbor freight unit I believe but it's been holding up solid.

The one thing that bugs me is the length of the nose on bumper on 87/88s. I was able to pull it with the hoist rubbing on the front license plate bracket but putting it back in is more of a c. I remember having to pull the front bumper/header panel before but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

Anybody have any tricks on this one?
3
Engine Tech / Re: Oil pan issues with windage tray
Awesome thanks guys.

I did receive a fox oil pan and it fit the windage tray perfect, just need to wait for some bolts to get this thing swapped back in.

Another quick question, I pulled the motor with the bell housing, clutch, etc.
So the rest of the drive train is still in the car: trans, driveshaft....
I had pulled it this way due to ease, only 4 bolts on tranny to bell housing but I know it'll be a pita to out back in this way due to the clutch.

What's the easiest way to get the motor back in?

I was thinking of putting the bell housing back onto the tranny while I hoist the motor back in or should I just pull the tranny and put it all in together as one unit.

Mind you I also have longtubes on my setup which were pulled with the motor in the first place and they'll be going back onto the car regardless.
4
Engine Tech / Oil pan issues with windage tray
Hey guys,

So I'm replacing the bottom end on my turbo coupe with the 302 swap.
Already had a good running 302 setup out of a 89 fox that was wrecked but had to pull the motor again due to a crack between two freeze plugs, was leaking coolant slowly so I have just been putting it off since I barely drive the car and the leak is real slow.

So I've got a solid bottom end almost ready to drop in with GT40x heads but the guy I got the bottom end from threw in a canton windage tray which I plan to install. Only issue I have now is getting it to fit under the pan. Engine is still in the stand until I get everything buttoned up.

So from what I found there are 2 types of double hump stock 302 oil pans, the style from sn95 5.0s or "thunderbird" style from what I've heard on mustang forums which has a v style in between the humps and a foxbody oil pan which is flat between the humps. My engine which originally came out of an 89 foxbody happens to have the V style for some reason and I believe that's why I'm having issues getting fitment correct.

So my real question if anybody knows is will the foxbody oil pan (flat style between humps) fit in an 87 bird with chuck motor mounts and still clear oil components as well as the rack and stuff in the engine bay?

All this is because I'd like to install the Canton 20-930 windage tray and I already went out and bought the ARP studs to get it to work and such.

Thanks guys
7
Misc Tech / HVAC Controls: No heat
Yes it is the auto climate control. I'd actually like to convert to a manual panel in the future.
8
Misc Tech / HVAC Controls: No heat
So I recently did a 302 conversion and it running absolutely awesome. I'm just getting the little stuff done on my car and getting the HVAC back up and going. I have all the AC stuff from my donor car that I plan on reinstalling soon but first I'd like to get the heater going.
The heater worked with the 2.3T but since the swap it hasn't, The controls work and the blower motor gets going but it seems like the blend door isn't going to the correct position. Basically I just need to know what exactly lets the HVAC panel run correctly, and where it usually comes from. Vacuum, Wiring??
I have all the schematics printed out but I cant figure this one out.
Also do the late turbo coupes have vacuum reservoirs?
9
Engine Tech / Exhaust for 302 swap, need some pictures
So I'm putting together the exhaust for my Tbird which is currently comprised of BBK Fox long tube headers, BBK h pipe, and some Borla lers with dumps off a fox mustang as well
Apparently all this stuff won't just Bolt on, I'll need to add some piping to the h pipe and/or the lers to get them where they need to be.
My car also doesn't have ler hangars before the rear axle so I plan on adding some.
I just got myself a decent welder so I plan on doing all the work myself.
I'd like to see some setups on how you guys have setup your exhaust, especially v8 longtube setups.
11
Engine Swapping / Swapping 89 5.0 HO into my turbo coupe
I ended up finding a used set of Chuck mounts for a 302. He doesn't make them anymore but I was lucky enough to find a set here on the forum.
I'm not too familiar with the Cleveland engines so I'm not sure which mounts would be best for you.
12
Engine Swapping / Swapping 89 5.0 HO into my turbo coupe
Ok so I've been slowly getting all the little details worked out and it's getting there. Most of the wiring is all good to go, all I have to do is connect a couple wires to the instrument panel and it should all be done. Ecm and fuel relays along with the baro sensor were mounted in front of the pass side shock tower and it fires up quite nicely. All accessories are in place as well as all the cooling components on the front end. I do still need to square away the exhaust.
Right now I have my bbk longtubes and h pipe on but the lers from the fox are a bit too short and need some lengthening. The ler hangars are also missing so I'll probably need to track some down to support the lers. One issue I've ran into is the h pipe drops off a bit too close to the passenger side inside the tunnel. Does the h pipe need to be lengthened as well to get it straight?
Anyone who runs long-tubes, some advice would be appreciated
14
Engine Swapping / Swapping 89 5.0 HO into my turbo coupe
I couldn't find the original thread where this is documented but i found one with the exact details and another with the pictures to do this, I've got quite a bit of some miles on this setup and it works great, just thought I would throw this out ther in case anybody would find it helpful.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?71585-SN95-Cobra-rear-brakes-and-Fox-length-axles
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine-drivetrain-122/how-rear-disc-brake-conversion-stock-28-spline-ranger-rear-end-95557/

I had sold off my stock TC rear end and installed this rear end to fund some my swap and parts and so far it's worked out pretty good.
15
Engine Swapping / Swapping 89 5.0 HO into my turbo coupe
Yes the rear end I put in off my foxbody was already swapped from stock drums to sn95 cobra spec using the Ford racing m2300m kit. At the time it was meant for my foxbody and I wanted to keep the stock fox width so what I did was slot the "welded on axle tube bracket to cobra spec caliper bracket" bracket to let it slide over the tube and let it bolt on the inside of the axle tube bracket to let me use foxbody length 5-lug axles. everything lined up perfect and is/was running great, fox width, except no antimoan brackets installed because of the modification i would have to do to the to accommodate the less space on the axle tube to be installed correctly. All i need is to get some 94-98 stock axles and i should be set, I could flip and swap the brackets from RH side to LH side from the kit, Install my new cobra antimoan brackets from the kit and i should be good to go. I have everything I need to get my stock T-bird  to  width once I get my hands on some more sn95 axles.