Hi, its been awhile since I've been on this forum. Nice to see its still here! So from this thread I take it that GT40P's will not work with stock SO pistons, Stock HO cam and 1.6's without valve reliefs. That sucks as I just pulled a set from the local yard. Likewise the stock mustang HO headers wont work either? Thought I saw a set work as I was googling. Oh well. I'm a little concerned about grinding valve reliefs in the stock SO pistons as the top faces don't seem very thick when compared to the 86 flat tops (with reliefs) I have in my mustang. How deep can be cut?
Good advice has been given here. If in doubt, definitely mark off the position before removing, such as distributor shaft and pointer location; individual bolt location; etc. You will have to remove the radiator and AC condenser for room to pull out the cam and put in the new. Bolts for the most part come off OK with the exception of a couple center bolts for pass side lower intake and esp one of the pass side timing cover long bolts near the water passage. I forget if it also was an accessory bracket bolt. However, the key was utmost patience, lots of loose nut (even a day or week before), and 1/16th of a turn at a time with the breaker bar. Don't want to break the bolt in the block. OUCH! and a set back for the 1 1/2 day job. If I were to do it over, I would have let the RTV set and hold the partial gasket pieces and seal on the front part of the oil pan for the timing cover, lots of squirm and anxiety (YELLED at my kid to leave me alone) when putting this back together. OH yes, did run into much prying and lost time when I was pulling the timing cover off because of a ceased dowel tube, though that wasn't my experience when doing this a few times at the Pick n' Pull. Do go very slow at pulling the old cam out and putting in the new cam so not to damage the bearing surfaces. This I practiced at the Pick n' Pull and found putting the cam gear back on the cam helped with tilting leverage. Get extra lower intake bolts for the 4 corners, cut off the heads, and use these as dowel type guides when lowering the intake onto the gaskets and fresh RTV (helps prevent shifting). Lots of assembly grease and a second oil change at fire up is recommended. Do replace timing chain since the original is a piece of , and replace hoses because they look better in blue (Goodyear kit). Otherwise, piece of cake and lots of satisfaction when it fires up right away! Good Luck.
I picked up a Lincoln Mark "Eight" fuel pump at the wreckers thinking that DOHC V8 with over 300 hp got to have decent flow. Does anyone know what that stock pump is rated to flow at? Has anyone tried to fit it to an 87 tBird or Coug 5.0L sending unit? Any advice?:burnout:
The SO cam was primarily profiled for torque output at low sub 2000 RPM and not peak horsepower, at the same time keeping gas consumption at a level heavily concentrated on during the CAFE 80's. Thus why it was used for the Crown Vic with E6 heads (another torque before HP design), and also the F150 with E7 like heads and one large air hungry intake system. It also copied the profile and firing order of the non roller 302 cam used before the intro of the non roller HO 302. It served its purpose well for a big bore short stroke block. That said...HO RULES!!!
Disconnect battery to reteach computer? Reset timing? 12 perhaps (mine runs good at 12). Check connection at air bypass? Vacuum leak? Somehow, if it ran ok before then the parts (ie fuel pump, air bypass) are probably still good.
After seeing what the "tool" looked like, I just borrowed from work a big enough socket to fit around the end, used strongest grade n' long enough bolts & nuts (had a selection of different lengths), and thick washers for the other end. WD40 and wrenched it out so it would cup into the socket. Worked great and no tool purchase. To install, I used large flat washers on both end and narrow end to draw it flush with the yolk, then a pipe wrench jaw worked well as a spacer in between washers and yolk since not enough room for socket (cup) in between pumpkin and yolk. Sorry no pictures or diagram. Just look at MM tool picture for ideas and improvise with what you've got.
That thumper website sure was interesting. Getting back to E6's deeper valve setting allowing greater valve lift (1.7 rockers), with SO pistons, has anyone tried to port E6's for as good or better flow than stock E7s?
Just looked at the Summit site. The TFS Twisted Wedge heads shown are for stud mount rockers. I already have a set of pedestal rockers. Are Twisted Wedge available for pedestal rockers? What do you suggest otherwise?
I hear ya's. Porting the E7's could be touch n' go with the 1.7 rockers, That's why I even considered doing the E6's.
I've long thought that forking out the bucks for TF twisted wedges was the way to go; but from all the reading I've done, I started to get concerned that the 2.02 size valves may be a little big and might cut the lower rpm HP and torque that's needed with an AOD stock tranny. Nice to have high HP but if it only comes on after the tranny upshifts then "OH WELL!". What are your thoughts on this? Valid concerns or would I get "seat of the pants" type burn outs anyhow?
ISKY tool? Yikes! on the head install & removal for each valve, I'm sure I wouldn't be the first one cutting corners by the 7th valve. Is it doable by your typical half-ass shade tree mech?
PS: I also have an Explorer intake to put on when I change heads.
From your responses, I gather that porting my E7's would work with my HO cam, SO pistons and 1.7 roller rockers. Right?
TFS twisted wedge heads do sound tempting, but would the Edelbrock Performer 5.0 1.9 intake heads work with 1.7 rockers etc? It would take me longer to get the cash for theses though.
I have the mass air stuff to put on when needed. So SD problems aren't a concern.
I'm convinced GT40's are out of question unless someone has good suggestions on how to grind valve reliefs into pistons while still in block and still in car.Thanks all, looking forward to your replies.
Here's what I got: SO block (dished but not reliefed pistons), HO cam. E6 heads, Comp cam 1.7 fully adjustable roller rockers. Changing block is not an option right now with the work area I have.
Question??? What aftermarket heads could I use with SO pistons, HO cam and 1.7 pedestal rockers?
Does anyone have comments on the Edelbrock performer 5.0 (1.90 intake valve) as a viable option?
What about the AFR 165, could these be used for this application?
I was thinking of self porting a set of E6's. Is this worth while? Pros - cons?
I already have a set of E7's on the work bench. How about porting these for my set up? Could they handle 1.7's, HO cam and SO pistons?
Keep in mind funds are tight, separated (car/motorcycle widow...LOL) and divorce imminent.... Whatever I do has got to be an affordable choice for what is a street driven garage toy usually taken for cruise nights and show n' shines. Thanks
I'd like to use a vane air meter like those used on the Turbo Coupe as an air flow meter for a project. The problem I encountered was that I can't find a diagram indicating which connector is for what. The meter I have is from an 89 Probe. It has 7 connectors, from left side I gather the first two are just a switch indicating whether the vane is open. The third connects to the board and also the temp sensor. The next two connect to the board. Sixth goes to the sprung sweep arm that is rotated by the vane and sweeps an arc on the board. Seventh connects to the temp sensor. My problem is that I haven't been able to feed a 5v signal on one connector and get a return signal variable with the opening and closing of the vane. Seem to only get full 5v back.
Anyone have any info or experience with these? I'm a little stumped. What I thought could be straight forwards, isn't! DOH
