Currently car has 203040 miles on it & does need some work (runs & drives). Windshield is cracked. Car does have some rust (can be seen in pictures). Interior had been changed out years ago because the original interior was bad and 2 position seat computer was missing. We have the original truck lid & hood. Front brakes have been upgraded with turbo coupe rotors & spindle assemblies. Rear was replaced with a turbo coupe rear with disc brakes. Engine had been replaced at 188023 miles (has small cam with 24lb injectors), converted to 5.0HO with mass air, & 5 speed conversion had been added. Have original wheels along with the matching wheel that are currently on the car. Original engine & auto transmission are available to go with car.
Nice lookin' truck. I bought an '05 4x4 Crew last fall. It had about 110K at the time, and of course I did not find out about the spark plug design issue until afterwards. Now it is about 120K and I still haven't done anything. I've just been putting it off because I'm skittish about doing it myself and I'm afraid of how much it will end up costing me at the shop. Only gonna get worse, though!
Aside from the 14MPG average, I'm enjoying the truck a lot. I've only had three partial issues. One is a loud squeal a few seconds after startup on very cold mornings. I was trying to read up about it on some forums, but I wasn't convinced that most of the posters knew what they were talking about. I think people were just pulling stuff out of the air. I put on a new belt already, so that wasn't it. One theory seems to be that they just do this and it is caused by the PS pump taking a few seconds to get lubed up. For now I'm letting that one ride. It has only done it a handful of times.
I do wonder if I might be developing the issue that 50RACER describes, because the engine does clatter more than I would have expected. I had the shop take a listen when I got the tires rotated a couple months back, but they didn't think anything of it. But it was a non-dealer shop, so they might not be aware of this specific issue.
The only other thing is an occasional exhaust smell through the vents when stopped at a light or idling. This also seems to be a common problem, but usually it is caused by loose plugs after a tune-up. Since I still have original plugs, I doubt that is it.
Anyhow, enjoy the new ride!
Have you figured out the squeal? Has anyone suggested the idler & tensioner pulleys? I had 1 that was making noise. I took it off and held my fingers to keep the bearing inner races from spinning while rotating the pulley. It didn't roll smooth so I replaced it & the noise is gone.
Last Saturday I went to Harrisburg (PA DOT) and walked out with antique plates. Was easier than I was expecting. Haven't driven our cougar yet with them. Need to replace pinion seal so it stops leaking.
Here in PA, can't use for general transportation either and is supposed to be original and maintained in original condition for the age of the vehicle.
Ours is somewhat original or modified with original ford parts (not for Cougar) but the cowl hood. It does need some work to really meet the requirements to be considered to be maintained as original condition.
There are a lot of cars here with antique plates that are not considered original but they are getting away with it.
Since getting the motorcycle, we don't drive the cougar much.
Anyone has antique or classic tags? What are the pros & cons? Do you regret doing it? I'm thinking about going antique on ours. In PA, once gone antique or classic you can't go back to regular tags. Here antique does not get yearly inspection or emissions, classic gets yearly inspection.
We purchased a 04 F150 crewcab with 140,000 miles in November 2013. I replaced the plugs on black friday. The first 7 plugs broke. I used the lisle plug remover tool. I read the ford mechanics like it better than the tool ford came out with. I replaced with E3's because I don't use champion in anything and these are 1 piece plugs as champion is. E3 use a 5/8" socket instead of the 9/16" like the motorcraft plugs. About a month ago I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, guides, & tensioners because it sounded like a diesel at idle along with a couple codes having to do with over advanced timing. I have done a lot of reading here http://www.f150forum.com/
Keep me in mind for the hood if you ever decide to sell the hood separately. I could pick it up anytime.
If you are talking about the cowl hood, most likely won't be sold separately because the intake does not fit under the stock hood. I had to use tall valve covers to clear the crane adjustable roller rocker set up and a spacer under the upper intake to clear the valve covers.
Our 20th Anniversary Cougar is for sale, $2500 OBO. Prefer to sell as a package deal (have other wheels, original engine, 2 auto trannys, & various other parts that we have acspoogeulated over the years). This is an extra vehicle that we don't need. We do not have room to get it inside so we would like to see someone enjoy it instead of the elements taking their toll.
Car has current PA inspection and emissions that expires June 2014. Odometer is currently showing 200,370 miles. The engine has 12,xxx miles on it.
Needs some body & paint work. Have a piece of a rear quarter panel to use to fix the passenger quarter over the wheel.
The interior is not the 20th anny interior. We have the original hood & trunk lid. Has been converted to 5 speed.
Has turbo coupe disc brake rear w/3.55 gears, limited slip is tight, turbo coupe front disc brakes, fiberglass 3" cowl hood, turbo coupe wheels, CHE control arms (upper are adjustable / lowers have adjustable spring perch), poly bushings in the front suspension, homemade frame connectors, line lock, Autometer tach w/ shift light, mechanical gauges in the scoop, & mass air conversion (there may be more but can't remember at this time).
Pictures show blankets on the back seat, these are there only to protect the seat from when our kids were small.
Cougar will start and run until I turned the steering wheel or left the clutch out this morning to come to work. Car immediately shut off when I turned the wheel very little or started to let the clutch out. Car would start right back up by turning the key. I'm thinking the ignition switch is the issue because the key turns smoothly & pretty freely. I did not feel any notches when turning the key. It does not take much to turn the key from the run position to the off position. What are your thoughts?
2 speed fan and may be from 92. Here are the numbers off it:
Fan assy: F2DE-??607-AB drilled a mounting hole through the part number Fan motor: F20U-8K621-BA Siemens FTS 1004 Q Fan shroud: F1DE-8146-BA Fan blade: F1DE-8600-BA
I haven't found a lot of info or replacement parts in my searching. Just put the car back on the road after being parked for 2 years. Fan went back just before being parked.
I need a new motor for my Taurus 2 speed fan but do not know what year the fan is from. I remember there was a thread that has mentioned part numbers and years. I believe Vinnie had done the research. Can anyone help?
