You'll likely have to find a double hump crossmember as well... Often over looked are the '87-'88 Tbird/Coug as a source for these(not the Turbo Coupes though)...
My car already had the double hump crossmember stock, so some '86 cars have them as well.
before the new engine and transmission I had the same MAC shorty headers and a Pypes X pipe as i have now with my column shift auto. A little grinding on the shifter linkage brackets will allow enough clearance for these headers.
yeah it's not a difficult swap. if i can do it anyone can. I got the D&D kit with a Zoom clutch, crossmember, short throw shifter, aluminum driveshaft, clutch cable, clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. It can be done much cheaper than the route I went. I did what I did because a friend owed me money for a 69 Camaro so he just put a bunch of Ford parts on his credit card for my Thunderbird.
If I was to do it again I would just get an Aerostar driveshaft and make my own crossmember.
bumper cover, been waiting for almost 2 years finally got to meet Nathan (cougrrr302) only took me 2 weekends to get it prepped painted and installed. paint was done by rattle can but who can tell?
DO NOT PUT THE ACT SENSOR IN THE AIRBOX! HAVE THE HOLE TAPPED IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND PUT IT IN THERE! Get it?
I get it. I forgot to have the boss tapped when I was building the motor. I did some reading over at the Corral and came to the conclusion that it doesn't make much of a difference if it's mounted or not. I will have it done when it's out this next time regardless, I might smooth and polish the intake too. Oh, and I would never have put it in the air box
Quote from: SR71TC;240229
You know I never got around to getting my EEC tuned, maybe it is time.......
Highly recommend it
Quote from: jangus;240240
Nice looking car, with good numbers also. I own an 88TC, and was wondering how much the dyno time ran an hour where you went? PM me if you can.
Thankyou, PM sent
Quote from: xjeffs;240259
Well at WOT the air in the manifold is moving so fast that it cools the the manifold very quickly and removes the heat, so there's no heat to protect it from. I can't imagine that it is doing much.
Yeah, I agree that there can't be doing ALOT. I don't think the air would actually make a difference in the metal temperature, but the metal would have less of an impact on the incoming air that spends less time in the manifold. Heat still transfers one way or another, if the air cools the intake, the intake is heating the air; if the intake is at a lower temp, then it will cool quicker.
)I was worried about hood clearance with the spacer so I left it off. I might try it when i'm doing the valve springs. the MAF is a 75mm PMAS. Would I notice any difference mounting the ACT in the intake rather than leaving laying on the intake? I didn't have a hole tapped to mount it and heard it was OK just laying there.
one of the oxygen sensors wasn't giving a good reading. they are turned off now until I get new ones. i'm not sure what valve springs to look at but i'll be ordering some soon. are the 1/2" intake spacers worth installing? I have one but it's not on right now. I never degreed the cam and was thinking about doing that as well.
I ran the car myself and we started burning the chip right away. we made several pulls before we settled on a tune. I wanted to see the pre tune numbers so we ran it once without the chip after the final tune. I ran it again last night to 6200 rpm and the power loss is significant after 5900. I can't recall the part number I just remember that the springs were rated for .550" lift which I am very close to with the rockers i'm running
The blue lines are before tuning. Apparently tuning is a must with H/C/I swaps. Never would have guessed I was only making 230hp before. Power drops at 5900 or so , probably valve float. I shouldn't have put the FRPP springs on with the 1.7 rollers
Well the alternator came back yesterday. The invoice from PA said that an insulator was compromised. Took the car out after getting it all back together and it was running great. I found a 5.0 Mustang when I was driving around and caught a few lights with him. It was a very clean 87-93 black convertible lowered with black cobra R's and 3" dual exhaust. I don't know anything else about it other than it was a manual trans and it was consistently slower than my car. At the first light when he lit up the tires really bad, I pulled so far ahead I couldn't even guess how many cars I pulled on him. The one good race we had I had a good 3-4 cars on him by 80mph.
What was the issue with the PA alternator, any resolution from them?
The bearing was bad I believe. Not sure why it blew the 200A fuse on the new charge cable, though. I think a new one is on the way now. Hopefully be back on the road this weekend.
Quote from: TommyT;238923
What brand of body kit components are installed on that car? It looks very nice. Great work.
Tommy
I don't know alot about the body kit, I couldn't tell you. It's been on the car since I bought it ten years ago.
Looks awesome.THAT is how I want mine to sit.Did you have to get an alignment/That's what's holding me back from springs,I just had my alignment done,and don't want to pay for it again.LOL.
Oh yeah, I got an alignment. I replaced everything in the suspension. Tokico Illumina shocks/struts, Urethane bushings, ball joints, new TC steering rack, TC spindles/brakes, MM C/C plates and the TC springs.
The rear has CHE adjustable lower control arms and fixed uppers with the Mach 1 springs. It sat higher than stock in the rear with the stock springs and new arms. With the Mach 1's, the pad on the arms is adjusted around 3/4 of the way up.
I didn't measure the height of the car before I did all the suspension mods so I don't know for sure exactly how much it's dropped. I do know that if I hit a big enough bump the 255/40R17's on 9" wide wheelshiznit my front fender lips.
