I do have a multimeter..it's digital. The #17 fuse is the one that's burnt and it had to get hot enough to fuse it together because everything that fuse works does work
Thanks..I wish it was simpler lol. I did get another module cause I'm tired of this cheaper ones that I've been going through every few months. I got an accel module. I do think I've got another issues with the electrical but I'm not the world's smartest at trying to figure out an electric problem. I've had a problem with some of the electrical anyway. Like someone has wired something into the fuse panel and burn up one of the fuses in the panel..it's burnt to the point to where it is fused together and I can't get a fuse in it. I'll try to diagnose the EEC this weekend I hope Thanks for help
I'll have to check EEC relay this weekend. I'm bout tempted to go get a motorcraft or an accel module and try that just to see what happens. Like I said earlier..I've been through a lot of modules on my car
Ok thanks. When I turn my switch on..the fuel pump runs then shuts off like normal. There has been a couple of times the fuel pump did turn off when I turned off switch but most of the time it stays on. Could the ignition module cause some of them issue. Just wondering because I just recently had to change module..then this happened the same day I changed it
Thanks jcassity No on has messed with the fuel pump relay and if I recall the fuel runs off that black box that looks like a computers mounted to the right side strut tower. I had had the instrument cluster out. It had been taken out B4. The last time I had it out..was about a year or so ago. I did notice when I had cluster out that there was a black wire coming out of harness that wasn't hooked to anything and I couldn't find a black wire anywhere to reattach
Hi guys..I Haven't been on here for a while. I'm having some kind of issue with the electrical in my 88 TC. About a month ago I drove car to work..when I cut car off I noticed fuel pump was still on..this blowed my mind considering that the key to car was out of switch and in my hand. So I put key back in switch turned switch on and then back off and fuel pump shut off. That's the only way to get the pump to shut off. I've also noticed my gauges also acting crazy and car isn't running quite right. I can have car running(not driving it) and I can run the rpms up to 2000+rpms and the speedo is running around 20-30mph and I'm sitting still. I've been driving around B4 and watch my temp,oil,and fuel gauge jump up to Max and then come back down within a few minutes. The speedo also sometimes jumps up when I roll my windows up and down.. pretty much about anything I do inside the car will make the speedo jump up. I've read that this is a common problem with these cars. As far as running goes..when I 1st crank car it dies..I might have to crank it twice B4 it starts up and runs without stalling. It will start but it bucks fusses and complains for alittle bit and then it will smooth out. That has recently started to..I'm wondering if the electrical problem is causing that too. Then yesterday I drove car it was doing it's normal thing..then when I pulled into my driveway the car was barely idling at 400-500rpm. Ive had ignition module issues which I've replaced about 6 of them since I've own car. I changed the ignition switch..using an on switch..that didn't change anything. I just don't know what to do anymore. Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks
Thanks skunk..I feel like a dummy I should have tried that first. I unplugged the sending unit and temp gauge didn't move..So I'm changing the unit again.. Thanks for help. I'll let y'all know if that doesn't fix it
I got it from Autozone for a 88 TC..And if I'm right ain't the digital for the v6&v8. My mounts on the side of block. I had a v8 sport awhile back and I think it was on intake.
OK..I've read some of the forums on her about temp gauge problem but I haven't seen this issue. Since I've had my TC the temp gauge has always read cold in the blue even when I know the engine was hotter than that. I changed the sending unit and then the gauge slowly started climbing but then after a few minutes of running the gauge maxed out and the engine wasn't even warm yet. I didn't think the sending unit was bad then I read that a member on here said he went through three sending units b4 he got one that worked properly..So I might have jumped the gun..I took dash cluster out and swapped gauge from my other car put all back together and gauge done the same thing and my fuel gauge stopped working. I pulled cluster back out to and used the cluster out of my parts car..Now my fuel gauge is working I think not for sure how much gas is in it but as soon as I turned on the switch temp gauge maxed out in a few seconds and the engine was off and cold. I don't know if I got a wiring problem or I should change sending unit again. What y'all think
Thanks for advice..I'm just wanting to lower the front a little..It sits to high. I wish it say like my v8 bird did and I wouldn't worry about it. I probably b going with v6 springs. Thanks abunch
Thanks Daniel..I posted my last post b4 I seen your post..My only concern right now is v8 or v6 Sn95 springs..My bird factory 4cyl..I don't know what the difference is between the v8 and the v6 springs
OK..Did some reading..Sn95 springs are direct fit but I was reading and most of the swaps were n v8 tbirds. My factory TC should I use v8 or v6 sn springs