Assembling my Mark VII brakes to get the 8.8 ready to install I noticed something I wasn’t aware of. Doing the second side I noticed the Vents in the Rotors are directional. I always assumed they were just straight through the rotor but they are not. AND there not the same from left to right side. Stand the rotors side by side facing the same way and place a screw driver down the vents and one of these screw drivers points left and the other point’s right. I searched the forums and found nothing on this. But I did find this thread look at Post #6 by Ether947 picture #2 and you can see there not straight through.
These Rotors are from a 84 Mark VII and I can only assume stock. I searched them front and back and can find no “Left” or “Right” indicator “L” or “R” nothing. Not even a part number. When I ordered the front Rotors from Richard there was no left or right option. And I didn’t check the fins on those rotors. (Of course not, Murphy’s Law dictates I would find this on the installation of the LAST of 4 rotors)
SO.. since they are Directional what way SHOULD they be facing
[html]Direction #1 Front \\\ Rear of O of Car \\\ Car[/html]
[html]Direction #2 Front /// Rear Of O of Car /// Car[/html]
I would think Direction #1 is the way the SHOUD be. If nothing else because Murphy is an ASS and mine are installed in direction #2
Is there a way on this site to see ALL messages (in any forum) posted by me all on the same page? Not just started, but also replied to. I have seen some where you can do this in the UserCP area, but I can’t seem to find anything like it here.
Looked at my Bird sitting in the driveway yesterday and seemed to be sitting a bit high in the left rear corner. Figured Aww flat right front, looked around the side of the car and didn’t appear so (although it was starting to get dark and the tire was up against a bush) figured it was just the lay of the driveway (lot’s of tree roots messing with the flatness on that side of the drive) Well came out to go to work this morning and sure enough, flat as a board. If you recall from my introduction my tires are shot so it’s not worth patching (if I was a tire guy I wouldn’t, there THAT bad) so is time to get tires for the bullits and convert to 5 lugs. Luckily I just ordered my 5 Lug rotors from North Racecars last week and I’m expecting them any day. My rear is about ready to go in. I still need to purchase the Rotors and Tires for it also, So I suppose I best be getting to it. Car’s going to be looking a bit funky with 18” Bullits on the front and 14” $4.00 hubcaps on the back if I don't.
I'm Hopeing this is one of those years where there was only one transmishion offered. Car was an LSC with a 5.0 auto w/floor shift. console was torn up where you couldent see the plate for what gear you were in.
would this be an AOD?
I could supply pic's but would take a day or so and it's pretty greasy still.
I propose we work together to attempt to dospoogeent rear widths in sticky worthy format for future people wanting to do rear axel swaps. There is a wealth of info here but some know it, some don't and others come in that ask it over and over again.
I have created a simple cad drawing of a basic rear assembly with what I consider relative dimensions and we have people out there that have rears laying around where we could get accurate measurements and list them out in the same format. As an example Vinniebirds info here for Mustang, 85 TC and 88 Bird.
I have a 1984 Mark VII 7.5 Disk Break Rear I can measure out and also a 90 Mustang 8.8 (Mustang rears changed arround 90 something I believe) I did my dimensions this way as opposed to the bearing to bearing measurement that Vinnie took because I believe the distance from housing into the bearing race is uniform from housing to housing and this is easyer to measure.
Also have Axel Measurements for both sides of axels because I know the Ranger and Areostar 8.8 axels are not the same from side to side. Most of ours will be the same. And I know Chuck seems to have most of this in his head, possibly he can help us out. heres some Info to get things going, Can anybody add or correct any of this? I will edit this post as new info is offered.
Car = TBird/Cougar Year =1983-1985 Ring Gear = 7.5 A = 61” B = 54” C = D = Same as C E = F = Same as E G = 4 Lug ------------------------------ Car = TBird/Cougar Year =1986-1988 Ring Gear = 7.5 A = 61” B = 56” C = D = Same as C E = F = Same as E G = 4 Lug ------------------------------ Car = TurboCoup ONLY Year =1987-1988 Ring Gear = 8.8 A = 61” B = 54” C = D = Same as C E = F = Same as E G = 4 Lug ------------------------------ Car = Mustang Year =1979-1993 Ring Gear = 7.5/8.8 A = 59.5” B = 54” C = D = Same as C E = F = Same as E G = 4 Lug ------------------------------ Car = Mustang Year =1994-1998 Ring Gear = 7.5/8.8 A = 61” B = 54” C = D = Same as C E = F = Same as E G = 5 Lug ------------------------------ Car = Mark VII Year =1984-19?? Ring Gear = 7.5 A = 59.5” B = 54” C = D = E = F = G = 5 Lug ------------------------------ Car = Ranger/Bronco II Year =1983-1992 Ring Gear = 7.5/8.8 A = B = C = 29-5/32" D = E = F = G = 5 Lug ------------------------------ Car = AreoStar Year = 1986-1997 Ring Gear = 8.8 A = B = C = D = 29-5/32" E = F = G = 5 Lug
My 88 Bird has a sun/moon roof or whatever the differance is. This one Flips Up if ya push the button forward and is suppose to slide back into the roof wide open if ya push the button to the rear.
Well a small clip is broken inside and it jams if you try to slide it back, and also the seal is broken and the contac cement I used to fix it about a year ago is giving up.
Can I get a rebuild kit for it or what do you all suggest?
Mentioned this a few times in a few places, why my time will be real limited for the next few months. Eight months in the works and FINALLY breaking ground on my home in Kalama Wa. Thought I would show ya all a pic. Best part of this is MY space... 26x40 3 car heated air conditioned garage and shop under the house as a daylight basment. :pics-stfu:
What does it take to put in a clutch pack for an 8.8 locker?
Will I need to have the gears all set up again?
The carrier bearings?
Same question again-->Will I need to have the gears all set up again?
I am going to do Axel bearings and seals and I know with those it's not required to set up the gears again. Thing is I do not know how to do the gears myself, and I'm not prepared to fork out the $$ to have it done. So I want to do all I can Just up to that point to this rear before I swap it in.
I dident want to hijack Thunder Chickens thread any more than I already have so I'm posting my resolution here. Thanks for all your help and the use of your thread Thunder Chicken.
I wanted to start with the least aggressive options first. So called my parts man try to track down a “special tool” for the job and he was able to find a place that had heard of such a thing but didn't know where to get one. While he was doing that I called the local Ford Service center and asked and they never heard of a special tool but had seen this often and suggested the small pick and if that didn't work then the BFH.
While Mark (my parts guy for 20 years) was doing his thing I went out and stood the rear on its side with the pin hole pointing down. I figured gravity on my side couldn't hurt, plus I was being optimistic hoping there were no threads on what was left and it would just FALL out (no such luck) I spent an hour and a half twisting this small screw driver in there and using my thumb nail on the screw driver as a Gage I could see it was coming out, slowly. About halfway out it seemed to stop, No progress for quite some time.. I tapped the “Large Pin” back and forth a few times being careful not to gouge the small pin and then stopping it in the middle of it’s travel.. I seemed to make a LOT of headway after that.. so the last half I would tap back and forth then twist the screwdriver.. Tap, twist, tap, twist was out the last HALF in 10-15 min
The next person with this problem I would suggest trying tapping the large pin back and forth from the start.
Below is the Good Pin out of the 7.5 rear The small screwdriver used to turn it out The broken pin showing it did indeed have one thread left.
Car’s going to be looking a bit funky with 18” Bullits on the front and 14” $4.00 hubcaps on the back if I don't.
