Last post by jcassity -
what your saying i agree with and good info on the points posts. the 22kR is spotted/ installed to protect the IDM pin 4 obviously. I was about to discuss why the 22k is not spotted more upstream to protect all the DG/y wires which under my "misunderstanding" would protect the TFI as well as the IDM.
i guess whats confusing is the guy goes from no spark to having spark after the repair. im going to check back in with him to see if this good spark is still the case.
Last post by softtouch -
Starting with the 86 EVTM it shows the PIP. SPOUT and Ignition ground wires with a grounded shield around them. I suspect this runs the length of the cable harness and is to protect against Crosstalk.
Last post by softtouch -
The TFI doesn't need any external resistor to protect it from voltage spikes generated by the coil windings. It is designed to deal with them.
Posted: Some points ignition systems. The negative ends of both windings are tied together internally, the same as the TFI coils. I believe this was design change from the original Charles Kettering/Delco version. It makes the spark last longer for a cleaner burn. I believe the original had the high winding grounded to the metal coil casing. The TFI replaces the points and capacitor. Posted: Scope pics of the negative side of the coil in a points ignition system.
The voltage developed by the high voltage winding depends on gap width. When the voltage gets high enough to ionize the air in the gap it arcs across the gap. The ionizing of the air gap causes the gap "resistance" to drop and the voltage to drop. Posted: 84 Shop Manual pics of spark plug voltage.
Anything that gets the seal of approval from Project Farm is a good product as far as I'm concerned. While some of his tests aren't quite something that could be produced by a lab, they're much more than the average person would do for testing and he's genuinely unbiased.
it has been a very substantial amount of time and i am ready to endorse JB Weld HiTemp two part epoxy. all is well and no drips or leaks on my pan anymore.
So I pulled it out and threw it in the trash. new will be going in when it's time.
Still a bunch of gross under it.
The only hole is in the "plug" on the pass side rear floor area. The rest is just surface rust. Had a little water ingress over the past couple of decades sitting out. You can see the remnants of the build sheet on the passenger floorpan next to the seat bolts.
The rust will be treated and the plug replaced and sealed. Now I have access to run the wiring I need to the back.
Last post by jcassity -
the time is here... if you want some seeds call 3047724082 , ask for scott. the intent is to get you seeds that are collected from the strongest samples i could save back over the years using no chemicals. i would appreciate you cover shipping just in case though if thats alright. it would be nice if you could trade seeds you have even up for what i have you may want. im in zip 24941 southern wv.
I just got my potatoes in getting two harvests in one year. the reason is two fold. i am one of those people that cant seem to grow potatoes without getting over taken by potato bugs. Like i do,, i try to figure out a way to "work with" the problem instead of throwing chemicals at it. the solution is what i am doing in the below vid. you so your sets up with taters eyeing really well. you drop them early to mid march and top them off with a good 12'' of hay on top. this allows you to harvest late june or early july. Meanwhile,, you have on standby another round of potatoes eyeing out and ready to drop in early july after your first harvest. basically the day you harvest,, you have taters ready to drop that day or next day to harvest late fall. thats two crops of taters. what does this get you ? you get two harvests..... but most importantly you are either harvesting or planting during that window of time where potato bugs are really bad. in the window of time july -aug,, the potato bugs with have nothing to do because there are no plants or basically old plants and they will just not infest your garden. Zero chemical solution.... see vid here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYEHIsQc5O8
Last post by Mikey97D -
Good luck with the surgery! I damaged the joint in my big toe once that caused it to mostly fuse. I had surgery on it in 2016 to reform the joint. Recovery took a bit of time (months). Hoping you have a quicker recovery!
I bet adding the insulation also helped with lighting due to the reflecting aspect of it?
Last post by Chuck W -
The surgery is just arthroscopic, not a replacement. Managed to damage the socket lining due to some other issues. Pain of some sort most days. Was really bad when I was cycling, but some PT and readjustment on the bike has shifted that to discomfort instead of pain. I'm very active, and having my riding and running cut down by over 1/2 has done a number on my mental state.
The wiring isn't that terrible. Every connector is ID'd and recorded. Still gonna be fun, and I'm not final wrapping things until I get the car to fire up.
Last post by gtbird -
Good luck with the hip surgery. One of my snowbird buddies here in Florida had one hip replaced in September and went back to Knoxville in January to get the second one done as he couldn’t stand the pain. He originally thought he could wait until the spring when he would be back home for the summer but that didn’t happen. Anyway he was back here in two weeks after surgery and he’s back playing golf. Anyway, I don’t know how you help track of all those wires and what goes where, hats off to you! I had a similar situation in my garage years ago with wide open roof trusses where all my heat went up into the eaves. After I insulted the ceiling with 3 1/2” of fiberglass, it was much easier to retain heat.
Last post by Chuck W -
OK, well winter set in and I didn't have much time to fiddle with things that were out of the garage.
Speaking of the garage. Part of my holiday was spent getting 2" insulation up on the roof rafters to help maintain the heat a bit.
It was open rafters and while I have a heater in there, it doesn't do well at keeping things warm when it gets super cold, and it ran all of the time, which kills my electric bill. Finished it up between X-mas and NY. While the concrete floor was cold-soaked for a bit, almost immediately I could tell it was working. For sure the heater didn't run as much as it did. Confirmation came in the most recent bill for that time period. Compared to last year, it was quite a bit colder on average, but the usage was down by 25% over the same time period. I call that a win.
Now to the car stuff. Wiring, wiring, wiring. Spent most of the frozen time working on harnesses, etc.
I had originally planned to mount the fusebox over on the PS of the engine bay, but it was going to really be crowded with the battery, etc, so I opted to move it to the DS.
There it's crowding out the airbox I was thinking about using, but I'll be able to figure something out.
I did design up a bracket to mount the fusebox and 3D printed it. The red bracket in the picture is just the mock-up, but I printed the "real" one out of carbon-filled nylon.
At this point, I need to get stuff laid out in the engine bay to finalize some wiring lengths and prepare the bulkhead connector for the 20-ish new wires that need to enter the cabin. Inside, I need to yank out the carpet. One, it's nasty and will be replaced. Two, I need to have access to run wires to the back for the FP and other emissions stuff that's at the rear of the car. OBD2 diagnostic port and throttle pedal need to be wired as well.
I needed to shift the car around on it's stands a bit to be able to open the tailgate, but I needed to get the trans mount installed, so that was properly supported. The task to day was to get the Stiffler's mount in place.
It wasn't a drop-in, as I needed to slot or elongate the slots in each of the frame brackets. Designed for a Fox, yes, but not the LTD/TBird floorpan. This mounting is temporary, as eventually I'm doing SFCs, etc. under the car, and will tie this mounting into that. I need to get the suspension on the front of the car and be able to properly load things up to design and install such things. Seeing as the LTS will need something similar, I'll make a couple sets.
Need to get the fuel system together, and I have a Deatshwerks DW200 pump on the way. Similar to the Walbro 255hp.
That's where we are at the moment. I'm on a time crunch to get some things done before the end of April. Have a hip surgery coming up and that will take me out of doing the heavy and contortive work for a few weeks. Not going to be able to climb around on the ground for a bit.
