0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Topic: 0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds. (Read 6554 times) previous topic - next topic

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #15 – February 26, 2007, 10:14:09 PM

hope you get her running right, and thanks man, she was one of the nicest people you could know, and smart as hell, she was going places man i tell you.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #16 – February 27, 2007, 01:23:40 AM

Quote from: ZondaC12;131555

Mass Air Flow sensor? don't got one. i left it speed density. i wasnt gonna spend all that extra $$ for something i likely wont use. (i think the HO will be plenty of power for me, this aint a hot rod, im like royce67/87/97 im preserving this thing as original but 150 horse just isnt enough for me. besides my whole engine bay still looks stock except for the headers)

the Thermactor System SHOULD be inoperative. I yanked the hoses and stuff since i got an off-road h pipe, and the crossover tube behind the heads, i pulled that, really frees up some space there! i plugged the holes in the heads with metal i cut out to the right shape, bolted on with the tube's bolts, and sealed with hi temp silicone.

i will certainly check at the computer. i have been exhaustive with the HEGO system because of the variables ive encountered with wondering if the old sensors were faulty but the results didnt agree etc....so i will continue to be exhaustive!

daboss, thanks for the sympathy! be happy you have a carbed ride!!! also thats anice tribute to that girl that died in the accident. thats horrible. what a waste. i cant imagine what it would be like if that happened to someone i knew. it shouldnt happen. my sincere condolences. just from the picture she seems like a genuinely nice person. may she rest in peace...:(

I'm doing my HO swap in a about 6 days :D . I hope mine runs better than yours. If not we can trouble shoot together:hick:

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #17 – February 27, 2007, 12:01:36 PM

good luck man!!! but i think the fact that its a swap makes it a LOT more likely youll be fine.

well, then this Friday ill check the HEGO voltage at the ecu. if that all checks out im bringing it to a shop. dont worry ill keep you guys posted! im sure youre all as curious as i am as to whats wrong.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #18 – February 28, 2007, 12:21:52 AM

It'll probably be that you forgot to plug in a wire conection or something easy:brick: . It always turns out to be something like that dosen't it......

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #19 – February 28, 2007, 08:52:25 AM

well thats exactly what was preventing it from running in the first place! the HEGO wiring harness ground wire wasnt grounded!:bricks1: lol grounded it and she fired right up. i was absolutely ecstatic. my mom happened to come out in the garage as i started it, and i was jumping around and shouting because i was that happy that it was running, and she was quite evidently a tad creeped out.

i will likely act the same way when my 75 hp is unleashed.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #20 – February 28, 2007, 12:17:49 PM

Sorry, I'm late to the conversation, but I have read through the many posts. I have done a V6 to V8 conversion on my 88 Tbird and may be able to help you. I noticed you said the main problem with your conversion is the lack of power. I have some questions:

1) Does the car have "good" power after it is first started, acceleration wise? (The first few minutes after started the computer is running in open loop and does not pay attention to the O2's)

2) Have you checked for vacuum leaks around intake gaskets, etc?
Vacuum leaks cause a lean condition, that many times the computer can not compensate for, resulting in lean misfire and lack of power.

3) Have you checked the ignition timing? With the spout connector unplugged the timing should be 10deg BTDC. If timing is at 0deg or even retarded, the engine will be a dog.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #21 – March 02, 2007, 06:43:41 PM

Quote from: 88BlueBird;131805

Sorry, I'm late to the conversation, but I have read through the many posts. I have done a V6 to V8 conversion on my 88 Tbird and may be able to help you. I noticed you said the main problem with your conversion is the lack of power. I have some questions:

1) Does the car have "good" power after it is first started, acceleration wise? (The first few minutes after started the computer is running in open loop and does not pay attention to the O2's)

2) Have you checked for vacuum leaks around intake gaskets, etc?
Vacuum leaks cause a lean condition, that many times the computer can not compensate for, resulting in lean misfire and lack of power.

3) Have you checked the ignition timing? With the spout connector unplugged the timing should be 10deg BTDC. If timing is at 0deg or even retarded, the engine will be a dog.

No problem!!! Im happy you're here period. You brought up one important point about timing--im not sure i disconnected the SPOUT thing. thats the small "jumper" thing thats essentially a set of wires that seems to just end but has this plug on the end that you can just pull off, right? i think i did, but im not sure. i set the timing at 12 degrees actually.

i dont really know about closed vs open loop, but you said first few minutes, and from my house it takes maybe 30 seconds to a minute to get out of my neighborhood and onto the main 40mph road, and i have tried accelerating almost full throttle onto that road, after a cold start, and i dont think theres any power difference. not a significant one anyway that i can detect.

i have thought about vacuum leaks. where do i start? LOL so many of them. would an auto parts store loan a vacuum gauge? how do i use it, where do i hook it up? what numbers should i see?

now, about the o2 sensors. i stripped a little insulation away from the wires to pins 29 and 43 on the ecu, and tested the voltage. sitting there idling (ill mention it now both sensors did the same things i will describe here, i checked them individually under the same conditions) the reading sat at 0.80 volts, fluctuating maybe +/- .02 or .03 volts or so, if i revved it it would sometimes go down a little more.

on the road pretty much every time id hit the gas it would come down to .7 or .6, sometimes to .4 , once or twice it went as far as .3 volts. it seemed to follow a trend of dipping lower the more i opened the throttle. cruising it stayed again about .8 maybe dipping to .7 but staying in that area.

is this a good sign? neither just sat at a value all the time. especially when driving the reading was just about always changing.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #22 – March 02, 2007, 11:41:30 PM

Quote from: ZondaC12;132127

now, about the o2 sensors.....

In my opinion the HEGO sensors are probably good. Its normal to see them vary like you did, and also depends on how fast your meter reacts. Bottom line they are getting to the computer.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #23 – March 02, 2007, 11:50:51 PM

okay. thats all i wanted, a second opinion, and confirmation that the way they were acting is alright. i remember someone saying "they should fluctuate between 0 and 1V" and i interpreted that as the reading should alternate back and forth from flat 0 to 1 constantly, just those two values.

i guess ill pull codes again to be sure, i also mentioned the MAP sensor before im gonna swap the old one in tomorrow and see if anything changes. if not then im throwing in the towel and bringing it to a shop.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #24 – March 03, 2007, 08:41:26 AM

According to JCassity's write-up:

O2 sensor check
start car
set meter to ******** AC ****** yep, i said AC.
ground out black meter lead anywhere logical
prob o2 sensor conn, should read about .3 to .5 volts ******* AC***
with the meter lead somehow secure on the conn, increase the throttle by hand.
the ac reading should increase to about .9 VAC.
repeat test for the other o2 sensor.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #25 – March 03, 2007, 12:54:06 PM

TIMING.

i hook up the light, check it, yup 10 deg BTDC. i shut it off, unplug the SPOUT, crank er back up, check it again, bam almost 10 deg BEFORE tdc. when i pulled the spout off i thought "i dont remember doing this", having to tug on each of those side tabs to get them undone so i could pull it out, it didnt feel familiar at all.

wow. my mileage has jumped right back to where it used to be! and i think there is more power. but its still wishy-washy, im not real sure. so i gotta take it out with the g-tech and get a 0-60 time, then ill know for sure.

but im SO glad its not just sucking down gas anymore. that was awful, my average reading said like 11.4 mpg

however i WILL still do jcassity's check! cant believe i never thought to search posts by him and find that! interesting, the whole "ac" thing. ill post the results.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #26 – March 03, 2007, 01:41:22 PM

Yeah..ALWAYS check base timing with the SPOUT out..... Plugging it in advances it about 20*. It had to have been running like poo at 10*ATDC

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #27 – March 04, 2007, 08:52:31 AM

well i just changed my o2 sensor and now my car shakes like a massage chair. are the 2 related?

timing is first thing on the agenda for me this afternoon since i seem to be having the same issues.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #28 – March 04, 2007, 03:00:48 PM

Zonda, check your vacuo lines. My car ran like shiznit for months, got py gas mileage, and had no power after swapping out the fpr. it ran like a top after I fixed the vacuum line that goes to the map sensor.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #29 – March 04, 2007, 11:26:21 PM

im gonna check vac stuff tomorrow. not bad, just pull the upper intake and look at everything. ill also double check the lines to the air pump diverters i capped off.

one last thing about timing. 10 deg BTDC. assuming everything else is fine, is THAT the timing setting on a mustang, as in with 10 deg WILL i have 225 hp like i should? should i bother trying to advance it a little? i mean, if i can go up to like 12 degrees, say, what HP gain is that? 1 hp? 5hp? more? if i dont stand to gain a significant amount i dont feel its worth the extra 20 cents or more per gallon to get the higher grade stuff.

and just to cover all bases, what role does the MAP sensor have in this? or none at all? if it was faulty would the car even run? again if its not that important, tell me. im just checking everything that has been changed in the process of working on this. so in that case, the egr valve too. if that was stuck/incorrectly operating would i have received a trouble code for it? i didnt. not for anything besides the thermactor system, which again, i disabled by capping off those vac lines and removing the diverters.

finally, it is possible to just slap my hand over the throttle body as its idling and seal it right up, and if it doesnt stall right out could that indicate a vac leak? with the force of the air suction might vac lines collapse/rupture/etc? i dont wanna damage anything but it seems like a quick-and-dirty way to know IF there are vac leak(s)