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Topic: te E7 or not te E7? (Read 1887 times) previous topic - next topic

te E7 or not te E7?

that is the question. lol. would it be worthwhile to upgrade to E7TE heads or just stick with my E5TE's? Granted if i could get my hands on some GT40p's i wouldn't have this problem, but i will settle for second best. (stock)

The only difference between the E5's and E7's are chamber size. 69cc vs 64cc. How much hp (tq) would come from decreasing the chamber size by 5ccs? If it's at least 10 hps then i would be happy. ^_^ Especially since the heads can be had for under $100. Also what size valves should i upgrade to or leave them stock? I plan on rebuilding the engine with performance parts. Nothing to wild though. Just a decent street machine.

List of Parts--
>>CompCams 268H Cam Kit
>>Crane Cams 1.7 Energizer Rockers
>>Edelbrock Performer Intake
>>Edelbrock Performer Carb 600CFM
>>Sealed Power Rebuild Kit

Any tips/suggestion would be greatly appreciated. ^_^ Oh, and the engine is a pre-81 302. prolly late 70s.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Re: te E7 or not te E7?

Reply #1 –
here's a bunch of info from days gone by ive collected for my hopefully HO/supercharged fast something or another.


head cam piston info
The only really good 351 heads are the '69 & '70 heads. All the later ones are basically the same as their 302/5.0 brothers. As a fact the E7TEs are truck heads and were also used on the 351..
turbocoup50

 --turbocoupe50
Basically the SO 5.0 uses a different firing order(could rewire the inj to get around this), and cannot handle the extra fuel the HO computer and injectors would supply. It could be done with a computer from a '91 Calif Crown Vic. Those SO 5.0s did have mass air.

NOW REMEMBER THIS..... MASS AIR IS NOT NECESSARY ON A STOCK ENGINE. ONLY IF YOU ARE UPGRADING TO BETTER HEADS, CAM, ETC, IS IT REALLY BENEFICAL.... STOCK '87-'88 STANGS ARE ACTUALLY A LITTLE QUICKER THAN THE '89-'93 VERSIONS.  --turbocoupe50

--joefirday
The best stock heads for your car would be the GT40 or Gt40P heads, and then the E7TE's.
The problem with the GT40 heads is that they are a bit hard to find (only found on 93-95 Mustang Cobras and a few mid-90's F-150's with the 351W engines) and command a good price, while the GT40P's can be had off any 97-2000 V8 Exploder/Mountainer, which should be a pretty easy and cheap score. Also, the Explorer/Mounty 5.0's have great-performing upper/lower intakes, and a 65mm throttle body that can be modified to work on the older 5.0's, if you are ever interested in getting into SEFI. A whole explorer engine would be one hell of a nice alternative that to finding a good Stang/Mark engine. The only problem with it is that it has the wrong oil pan, front timing cover, serpentine belt brackets, and a distributerless ignition. As long as you can find a roller cam distributer, and the front end accessories and timing cover off the older 5.0's (F-150 5.0 trucks of the late 80's had the same front accessory brackets as the 5.0 SEFI T-Bird engines; should be easier to find in the boneyards) you should be all set. The oil pan off your current 5.0 should be double hump, and can be used on the Explorer engine.

The problem with the GT40P heads is that they require a special header, and the headers costs $270 from Ford Racing (mac also makes a set, but the Fords are Stainless Steel, which makes the extra $50 for them worth every penny). That makes the P head not so much of a steal as it is thought to be.

Also, the GT40 and GT40P heads run larger valves than the E7TE's and your stock heads, which may require you to flycut or just replace your pistons in order to have proper piston-to-valve clearance. If that's the case, then perhaps the E7's are the best choice for you. They are truely a dime a dozen, and easy as hell to find (all 87-96 5.0 F-150s, all 87-92 Lincoln Mk7's, and all 87-93 Mustang 5.0's have them standard). Very good performers too. I use the E7's on my T-bird. They can support a very good amount of power when ported. Best of all, they shouldn't require any flycutting of the pistons or expensive exhaust upgrades.

On a closing note, you say your engine is an 84 right? well, the py heads for the 5.0 engines have always been the "E6" heads (used on all 86 and up 5.0 SO engines). Since those heads were made in 1986, your car can't possibly have those heads, which leaves me to wonder what heads you do have. I wonder if your 5.0 uses the same head castings as the 85 mustang? If that's the case, then those old castings are just as good as the E7 heads. Perhaps you don't need a head upgrade. Can anyone verify this? Turbocoupe50? Anybody? --joefriday

turbocoupe50
When I said $3k CDN wasn't going to do it, I meant for like 325hp. If you don't rush and wait for some deals, it should be possible to get 275+hp on a tight budget.

To be able to use a decent HP cam/head combo you're gonna need pistons with valve relifs. The SO 5.0 has none, the only head that works with stock pistons(other than the E6s) are the Twisted Wedges (yea I have 'em). Is your engine really ready for a rebuild or do you just want to have a fresh base to start with?? I've seen many 5.0s with over 100K mi that were fine for another 100K. I personally know a guy with a '88 Bird that has 317K mi. with only a timing chain replacement(yea its getting tired).

These heads are gonna require notched pistons(Possibly can use the E7s with a stock HO cam, but you hp is gonna be limited). To make any kind of real HP you're gonna need at least some PORTED E7 Mustang heads(do a web search for "Power Heads"). A step up are the GT40 irons, with a little porting they perform really well. Since aluminum heads are all the rage these days, they are usually available used for around $250-$350(US). Also get a set of roller rocker arms.

Next up would be cam... I have the small Trick Flow cam in mine, but its a little much for the everyday driver. Something like the Ford Racing "E" cam will idle better(there are also a lot of other choices).

Now you're gonna need a intake. Probably the best for the least money will be the Explorer unit(requires drilling for the ACT sensor). May be able to pick up a Cobra setup if you are lucky. Also get a 65mm throttle body while you are at it. Here you could use a Mustang HO upper and throttle body, then up grade later.

You'll need better engine management with the engine mods, so you'll want a Mustang Mass Air Computer and 19 lb injectors. If you decide to just go stock HO, a Mustang Speed Densety setup would be fine.

Exaust system is next.. aftermarket is best again, but you could get by with Stock Mustang headers and a 2 1/4" system(2 1/2" is better). Jegs has a Hooker system that works nicely, but as with all Mustang exaust will require a bit of massaging to make fit.

Then there all the little pieces that add up in price, lifters, adj fuel pressure reg, better fuel pump, etc. Then there are things like better rear gears and higher stall converter for the tranny. Plain and simple...Horse Power ain't cheap. Keep a eye on the Corral and ebay for deals.  ==turbocoupe50

so is there a mark made in 87 with e7's? ==jcassity
OK here's how it works... Only the LSC versions of the Mark-VII had the HO. A Bill Blass(or any other) version got the std 150HP SO 5.0(this is true up till '89 or so). Any LSC built in '87 that has the HO with E7 heads would be titled as a '88. The engine ID in the VIN number also changed from "M" ('86-'87) to "E" ('88-up). For the Mustang, HO engine code change from "M" to "E" beginnig with the '87 models... turbocoupe50


turbocoupe50
To retain the speed densety system the '87-'88 Mustang EEC is a plug in, no other changes necessary. The LSC computer can also be used, but the '88 up has a speed limiter.
The '87 SO 5.0 engine should already have a roller cam installed. No its not the same as the HO, so you'll still want to swap cams.
The SO engine will have flat top pistons without valve relifs, so the HO cam and heads are the limit without notching the pistons. The Trick Flow Twisted Wedges work great without notching thiough.

I'm not really sure what the chambers cc out at, but I'm thinkin' both HO and SO are in the 62-65cc range.-- turbocoupe50

Re: te E7 or not te E7?

Reply #2 –
Since I've already said a lot in jcassety's post I'll keep this breif.

The 5cc will get you approx .5 increase in compression, and maybe 6-8 hp.

Re: te E7 or not te E7?

Reply #3 –
coolness. ^_^ thanks guys.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Re: te E7 or not te E7?

Reply #4 –
Quote from: TurboCoupe50
Since I've already said a lot in jcassety's post I'll keep this breif.


 :giggle:

It just saves time if you copy/paste those informative posts so one day you can quick reply.

Re: te E7 or not te E7?

Reply #5 –
Well E7s will bring your compression up a bit and make a bit more power.
But the smog heads need some work.  grind out the smog hump and then thread in a cast stich to fill the hole and grind some more.
open the intake and exs side and port match everything.
Free HP for u and only will cost u your time.

I have E7s on 351 that is putting almost 400 to the wheels.  I will be changing my top end and going with better heads in the spring.