Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Topic: Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects (Read 1611 times) previous topic - next topic

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

June 18, 2006, 10:38:48 PM

The other day I wanted to install my subframe connectors, but couldn't because the seat studs didn't want to come out...
Today, I was gonna pull the front springs (since the driver's side one has about a coil broke off the bottom) so I could cut the passenger side one or something to get the front end to level out...BUT, I sure didn't make it very far. I took the nut off the outer tie rod and the thing wouldn't come out of the spindle, even when I put a punch on top of the stud and was whacking it with a hammer. Both sides. Guess I gotta go buy a tie rod pickle fork (whatever they're called). Dammit:mad:

Maybe by the time I get to it again the PB blaster I put on there will have worked down in, I hope so.

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #1 – June 18, 2006, 11:13:41 PM

there is a fail proof trick to getting tierods loose..... take a hammer and smack the side of the ear where the tie rod is attached and it will pop loose since they are a tapered fit. try it if it doesnt come loose hit it harder or get a bigger hammer DO NOT hit the nut or the threaded stud

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #2 – June 18, 2006, 11:14:04 PM

If you plan on reusing the tie rod ends, don't use a pickle fork.

To get the tie rod ends out, strike the spindle where the tie rod end goes into it. Strike the SIDE of the spindle, and be careful not to hit the tie rod itself. Give it a good whack. The tie rod end will pop right out.

You'll end up getting the ball joints out the same way, but when you do them, be sure to leave the nut on at least a few threads. The ball joint will be under pressure when it springs apart.

EDIT: 88Turbo beat me to it :p

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #3 – June 18, 2006, 11:18:05 PM

Quote from: Thunder Chicken

EDIT: 88Turbo beat me to it :p

hehe :flip:

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #4 – June 19, 2006, 12:50:44 AM

So I need to hit the spindle itself, where the stud goes through? I tried that and it didn't do anything, but ok...

How is it that putting a punch on the stud itself and hitting it with a hammer wouldn't break the thing loose, but hitting the spindle will, according to you guys?

Also I'm not taking the spindles off, since I'm just messing with the springs...

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #5 – June 19, 2006, 01:37:08 AM

I've always just threaded the nut on till its level accross the top with the head of the nut and the end of the stud, a couple solid whacks with the BFH and its off

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #6 – June 19, 2006, 02:13:53 AM

I've been told not to do that before...

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #7 – June 19, 2006, 03:20:38 AM

so have I but it works for me, only thing is its sometimes a pita to get the nut off with the ball joint spinning

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #8 – June 19, 2006, 07:02:59 AM

It may take several whacks with the hammer on the spindle to get it loose.

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #9 – June 19, 2006, 08:38:39 AM

I always keep a spare castle nut to whack on. You can also use a 3-Jaw Puller, just don't just a cheap one or it will break. I've lost many pullers that way. :)

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #10 – June 19, 2006, 09:17:29 AM

Whacking the tierod's arm will often just "sproing" it out of the way, absorbing the hit and not doing anything else. Hold another hammer against the far side of the arm, then whack the near side. That will make the hole flex just enough to pop the stud out. (At least, that's the theory).

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #11 – June 19, 2006, 11:59:34 AM

Well I guess I'll have to try that. I do have a 2-jaw puller but I think it may be too big to even fit in there.

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #12 – June 19, 2006, 07:04:47 PM

Well guys I attempted your "tried & true" method today with no success. I guess you gotta pull the rotor & dust shield to really get a good swing at it, but it wasn't budging even after I heated it up with a torch & whacked it with a good size ball peen hammer (and I also attempted to put a punch on it again & hit it with a hammer). I have a good size two-jaw gear puller that I may try if all else fails, which at the moment it's not looking like much else will work.

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #13 – June 19, 2006, 08:24:05 PM

Ballpin hammer!!??! No you need at least a 3lb slege hammer. That is how I got the rusted nuts off of my front axle on my ranger.

Though it is different the concept is the same.

Daniel

Dadgummit! It's always the stupid little stuff that messes up my projects

Reply #14 – June 19, 2006, 09:01:41 PM

Yeah, You need a BFH ( big fornicaten hammer) turn the wheel so the tierod is facing out so you can get at it better. If you put the puller on it, tighten it down, then hit the spindle with the hammer that should do it.... should