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Topic: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To. (Read 34141 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #75 –
Thanks Jeremy.  I just wanted to confirm that the imbalance of the 3.8 didn't change when coupled to different transmissions.  And you are also saying that the T5 is longer than my C5, so I'll need a shorter driveshaft?  Is there a driveshaft that's a direct fit, or will I have to have mine cut down?  It seems like an XR7 driveshaft from a 5sp would work, but I doubt I'll have any luck finding one of those.  Thanks again.

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #76 –
Gonna put this in here so it is not lost in my build thread.
Quote from: gumby – on
87 CFI 3.8
  • sn95 v6 T5 and bellhousing
  • '83 F100 3.8 flywheel(same part number as 5.8L) 164T, 28oz
  • '83 F100 10" clutch
  • '96 F150 5.8L manual trans starter
  • Fox pedals
  • Clutch cable
All my research, mostly here on FTBCF, says this should be the correct combination of parts to complete the mission. We are going to find out together!
These parts all went together quite well, and everything functions as it should. I did have to shorten my driveshaft, but I also lowered the car at the same time, likely compounding any issues. YMMV

Reference links outside this thread, or dead links retraced:
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=35400.0
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?37028-T-5-swap-behind-3-8-V-6-is-done

I re-used my AOD blockplate. I would recommend against this unless you make a couple small modifications before installation. The starter hole needs to be opened up a bit for the later starter, and I had some light interference between the blockplate and the flywheel when warm. This could be due to a tweaked blockplate, or a difference between the auto and manual parts. Just use the sn95 blockplate and don't look back.

I used a fox length clutch cable. This required changing to a multi-hook quadrant and firewall adjuster. While I think having the firewall adjuster is a good idea in the long run, I still think the sn95 cable would be a better fit with the sn95 bellhousing.

With these two adjustments to my original list(sn95 blockplate and clutch cable), I believe this swap would have bolted together like OEM.
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #77 –
Gumby,
Thanks for the info.  Assuming I can purchase the parts on CL that I found (the seller only provided an e-mail option for contact, and so far he hasn't acknowledged my message), it includes the SN95 T5 block plate.  He did not mention including the cable, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.  I found the '83 F100 clutch/pressure plate set on Autozone for like $120.  Haven't searched for the flywheel yet.  So the SN95 starter won't work for this application?  How many of your parts were picked from salvage and how many did you buy new?  I can see the total creeping on up if I have to buy many parts new at Autozone.  As always, thanks again for your assistance.

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #78 –
Pedals, trans, and cable all acquired used.
Flywheel, clutch set, and starter came from RockAuto

sn95 starter is a no-go
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #79 –
Gumby,
Found a pedal set from a '93 Mustang 2.3 for $40.  Does that price sound fair (I have to pull them myself)?  Gotta drive about 1.5 hrs to get them.  And, while I'm there, is there anything else off that car that's worthwhile to check on?  He's still got the cable, but I told him I won't be needing that (assuming I can find an SN95 cable).  I think he's got the bulk of the car still available.  Would his trans crossmember help me?  Or his driveshaft?  If I'm driving that far, I want to make the most of it.  Thanks again.

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #80 –
Quote from: fordman3 – on
Gumby,
Found a pedal set from a '93 Mustang 2.3 for $40.  Does that price sound fair (I have to pull them myself)?  Gotta drive about 1.5 hrs to get them.  And, while I'm there, is there anything else off that car that's worthwhile to check on?  He's still got the cable, but I told him I won't be needing that (assuming I can find an SN95 cable).  I think he's got the bulk of the car still available.  Would his trans crossmember help me?  Or his driveshaft?  If I'm driving that far, I want to make the most of it.  Thanks again.
Just the pedals, $40 is fair.
Quote from: fordman3 – on
Gumby,
You probably mentioned this and I may have missed it, but were you able to get the right combo of speedo gears to have a functional speedometer? 
...
would swapping to the 3.8 Mustang's headers alleviate ... any of the interferences you all talked about.  Thanks again as always.
My speedo is dead on. You will likely need to change the drive gear located inside the trans tail housing in order to get into a reasonable working ratio for the available driven gears.
I doubt the later model tubular headers would change anything related to exhaust clearance around the clutch arm, but I have no first hand experience in that regard.
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #81 –
While he's removing the tailshaft to replace the drive gear, he should probably go ahead and replace that tailshaft bushing while he's in there, right @gumby ;)
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #82 –
Gumby,
Do you happen to remember the tooth-counts (colors) of both gears you used?  Maybe a better question is, what is the drive/driven gear ratio?  That'll let me know if either of the gears I already have can be re-used.  Thanks.

Chuck,
I've noted that suggestion.  Thanks as well.

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #84 –
2020 and this thread is still being used. I’m doing the swap NOW on my 87 T-Bird 3.8. The 83 F-100 flywheel.. The bolts I bought to bolt the flywheel to the crank are a no go. Those bolts are about .430” and my stock bolts are about .390” and different thread pitch. So, I need to find a bolt that has the .430 shoulder but .390 thread. Yay.. Off to O’Reilly with 2 bolts and some calipers. Anyone know the answer already?

Re: Sn-95 T-5 swap behind 3.8 Cougar/Bird How To.

Reply #85 –
I ended up drilling and tapping the end of my crank shaft to accept the 7/16x20 f100 flywheel bolts. It came out perfect. Now I’m working on my clutch pedal assembly. I found a 79 Mustang assembly for $20. I ground the weld off the shaft end and separated the shaft from the pedal. I put the shaft in a lathe, turned off the threads, drilled and tapped the end to 5/16x18 and attached a modern BBK billet quadrant. Turned down some spacers to get quadrant and clutch cable alignment and fastened it together with a hardened shoulder bolt. Assembly is ready to media blast and paint.