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Blower Motor removal info

Hey all,

My A/C blower motor is real weak, been like this for years but I've finally decided to do something about it after other people complained about it. 

Is this something I can change out with the glovebox out or do I have to do Eric's tech article for the heater core removal? If I gotta go to all that trouble, I'll get a new heater core at the same time.  Please tell me I don't need to do this.

Thanks in advance...:hick:
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way


Blower Motor removal info

Reply #2
May want to check the blower resistor  which is behind glove box on right.  I have never done the blower motor but I think others have said  you can get it from underneath kinda between firewall and firewall side of heat box.

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #3
Quote from: EricCoolCats
I believe you have to pull the dash out Jeeves...sorry...




That's all I gotta say.
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #4
Quote from: mjbtbrd
May want to check the blower resistor  which is behind glove box on right.  I have never done the blower motor but I think others have said  you can get it from underneath kinda between firewall and firewall side of heat box.


Doubt that's it.  The problem is the motor doesn't spit out nearly enough volume in the three highest speeds.

Oh, its not an ATC system if that helps. :(
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #5
Probably just leaves and  that have been sucked in and blown against the A/C core fins. All the air has to go through it first. Could even be  that hasn't made it past the intake. How's the air volume on other settings, like "A/C Max" (recirculate)?

Mr. Haynes doesn't say anything about pulling the dash, and neither does Mr. Autozone...  http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/e6/11/0900823d8014e611.jsp
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #6
Quote from: MasterBlaster
Probably just leaves and  that have been sucked in and blown against the A/C core fins. All the air has to go through it first. Could even be  that hasn't made it past the intake. How's the air volume on other settings, like "A/C Max" (recirculate)?

Mr. Haynes doesn't say anything about pulling the dash, and neither does Mr. Autozone...  http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/e6/11/0900823d8014e611.jsp


Good point about the leaves.  But it is weak in all settings, including A/C Max. 

Maybe I'll do some exploratory surgery next weekend and see what I can reach.
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #7
Would there be any decent way to clear debris from the A/C core without tearing everything apart? My Mark's A/C is rather weak, too. Perhaps shutting off all vents but one and blowing compressed air through the last open one? (with a rag stuffed over the rest of the open vent) We do that at work for things like clogged drains.

I'm hoping I can find a way to improve things that doesn't involve working under the dash at best or tearing it out at worst. I just don't have the energy to do something like that right now. (not to mention I'm in too much pain)

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #8
Quote from: MasterBlaster
Mr. Haynes doesn't say anything about pulling the dash, and neither does Mr. Autozone...

Neither does my Helm. I think you can take the heater box out separately. There are only 3 fasteners that hold it in.



Bird351, I cleaned my evaporator when I did my heater core (blower box removed). I blasted it with compressed air while spraying the core with water and Forumla 409. DO NOT USE FORMULA 409. My vents still smell like scented ass, and it has been >3 months.

Closing all but one vent and blowing air in isn't going to create enough velocity to do anything meaningful.

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #9
Well, all methods of cleaning it that involve actually getting down there and working on it are out of the question right now. I am too screwed up from work, for one.. for another, I don't have much spare time to be pulling dashes apart even if I could get in there without hurting myself further. (and the third reason, not pulling the car apart when there's a hurricane on the way and we might need to leave)

We have coil cleaner at work for all the room A/C units.. I think I'd use something like that IF I could get in there to clean it. The A/C does smell a little stale..

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #10
Quote from: Bird351
We have coil cleaner at work for all the room A/C units.. I think I'd use something like that IF I could get in there to clean it. The A/C does smell a little stale..
What do you mean buy a coil cleaner? A sprayer with a wand using an acid as the fluid?
You can use something like this to kill the mildew/mold hanging out on the evaporator. On our cars, you'd open the recirc. door, shove the tube to the evaporator and spray away. If you had some kind of extension for an air gun, you could spray the evaporator down with compressed air after you clean it with the treatment.



Blower Motor removal info

Reply #11
It's something we mix up in one of those compression spray bottles, like you'd put insecticide in. We use a lot of those sorts of bottles for stuff like that coil cleaner, half-water/half-pool-chlorine, (for killing the mold that builds up on all the sidewalks) etc. Anyway, the stuff is liquid, not foam. It works really well.. it has to, for all the shiznit that builds up in a room A/C. Take your average old window A/C unit used down south here regularly, and double the amount of  in it. (at least)

Would something like that drain out the condensation drain hole if I used that, and then carefully rinsed off the core? Or am I asking for a world of shiznit by even attempting to spray liquids in there?

I got under there a little bit, a few minutes ago. Seems I'm barely flexible enough right now to pull a trim panel under the glove box, but that's about it. I pulled the trim panel and cut a bigger opening for the recirc box to draw in more cabin air. With that sound deadener there, I'm amazed any air at all got through. Also sprayed some Oust air sanitizer through the recirc box (in little puffs to try to avoid getting anything wet, it was  close to the EEC) and also that and some Lysol (used the scent to be able to tell if it was getting through.. it was) through the exterior vents. It seems a *bit* more effective, but of course now it's louder. *shrug* That was all I could manage, and it still hurt like hell to be under there... especially after being bent over the T-bird for half an hour putting a new starter solenoid and better (but uncooperative, esp. with a face full of gnats) power wiring in place.

Blower Motor removal info

Reply #12
Jeeves I've pulled the blower motor on an '85 Cougar before and it is separate from the heater box.  So the dash does not have to be unbolted.
-Jim
1987 Cougar LS 5.0


Blower Motor removal info

Reply #13
Quote from: jkirchman
Jeeves I've pulled the blower motor on an '85 Cougar before and it is separate from the heater box.  So the dash does not have to be unbolted.



Allright, looks like I got myself a project come Christmas break.  Thanks for the info. :)
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way