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Topic: Engine Codes (Read 2204 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine Codes

I checked my engine codes today and I got codes 21, 24, 31, and 84. If anyone could tell me what these codes mean I would really appreciate it. I did the test light thing and I don't have the code book.

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #2 –
CODE: 84 (KOEO) - EVR Circuit Failure
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure



CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:


EVP circuit below minimum voltage

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CODE: 21 (KOEO) - ECT out of Self-Test range
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
ECT out of Self-Test range
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CODE: 24 (KOEO) - ACT out of Self-Test range
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
Air Charge Temperature sensor out of Self-Test range
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Re: Engine Codes

Reply #3 –
Thanks for your help. I think I know what the EGR vacuum regulator is and the Air charge temperature sensor but what is an ECT and the EVP circuit?

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #4 –
for 84 & 31  it could be egr or egr position sender possibly tab/tad sensors.  ECT is engine coolant temp.  Chances are the car was not warm when tested which is why you got the ect &act codes  ACT is air charge temp.  EVP is EGR valve position or exhaust valve position both mean the same sensor though

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #5 –
I checked my Codes today cuz i still dont know what cause my engine to cut like there is no more spark... (Happens sporadictly)
If the car still moving at descent speed usually it restart by itself 2-3 time then keeps running......

Fast codes, then :
---II-III---IIIIIIII-II---II-III---IIIIIIII-II-------I---I-IIII---II-III--I-IIII--III-IIII-------------

- <=> 1 sec Pause
I <=> Pulse

Im still not sure how to decode it...

Hard fault :23, 82, 23, 82,
Speration pulse,
Continious Mem Codes : 14, 23, 14, 34
Am I right? or at least close to it?  :dunno: Or is the II mean no Hard error and those are all Continious codes?

I tried the Testlight method and this is so confusing....

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #6 –
THIS:http://fordfuelinjection.com/ will explain all the codes

23 adjust and or replace TPS

14 is why it shuts off  could be bad tune up parts like wires, cap &rotor or could be TFI module or distributor pickup

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #7 –
Thanks for the info and the URL....  :)

I already suspect the TFI to be the prob.... If it stall and still dont want to start (while cranking), I unplug/replug the TFI then I hear all the selenoids and relay reactivation to finnaly start and it keep running...

This is so hard to diagnose a stupid intermitent prob....
It can do it 5 time in the same day as it can do it once in 3 month...  :mad:  :(
My connector/wire are are good... no oxidation, crack, peel etc...


I didnt know a TPS has to be adjusted....  :wtf:
The screws are not mobile.... how should i do that?
I changed it last year at same period...

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #8 –
Quote
I didnt know a TPS has to be adjusted.... 
The screws are not mobile.... how should i do that?
I changed it last year at same period...


A 5.0 TPS "normally" does not require adjustment. If you have a digital volt meter, measure the voltage from the green to black wire to determine the actual voltage. If it's less than .5v or over 1v the holes in the TPS can be elongated to adjust it into spec(.7-.9v) is fine).

Now there's gonna be a bunch of you busting in here and yelling it should be .999999 volt, thats all B/S. I've set mine every where from .5 to 1.2v, and the car performs the same at the track(MM&FF also got the same results). If anything, mine "feels" better set around .75V.

Re: Engine Codes

Reply #9 –
I never did too much adjusting of the tps either Tom , just  kinda thought it might help with the 23 code.  I never got that code myself so I had no idea as to an ultimate resolution.