Electrical issues Reply #15 – May 17, 2018, 12:20:34 AM I do have a multimeter..it's digital.The #17 fuse is the one that's burnt and it had to get hot enough to fuse it together because everything that fuse works does work Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #16 – May 17, 2018, 02:57:10 PM I suggest you pick up a test light. They are cheap and have a sharp point probe that you can back probe a connector or push through the wire insulation to check for voltage.$3.80 at NAPA: Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #17 – May 17, 2018, 08:39:57 PM ThanksI'll check into getting one Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #18 – May 27, 2018, 11:58:57 PM So what are you seeing with your new test light? Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #19 – May 28, 2018, 01:16:06 AM Well I haven't quite got to that point yet. I've been getting the car to run right..well somewhat right. I bought a new accel module and my car didn't like it. I don't understand unless it was a bad module so I got a replacement in and the car still didn't start right and then it wouldn't start at all. So I put my old module on the car and it fired right up and run as always. I did try something tonight to see what happens. I started the car and let it run for a few minutes and then turned if off and instead of turning switch on and then off to shut off fuel pump..I let fuel pump run until it shut itself off, it took about 30 seconds and fuel pump turn off on its own. So I did the sequence again and after shutting off car the fuel pump ran for about 30seconds again and then shut off. I have done any electrical testing on car yet because of weather but I do plan to. It just puzzles me why the pump runs for 30sec. then turns off.It's making me wonder if I do have a EEC problem and if I do where would I find one Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #20 – May 28, 2018, 03:24:19 PM Quote from: wpblackfoxturbo;465936It's making me wonder if I do have a EEC problem and if I do where would I find oneDo you remember at any point smelling a burning smell around the time the problems started? If a capacitor or something burned out in the ECU you might be able to smell it, like an electrical fire smell. You could also just pull the ECU out and see if any visible damage or shorting has occured, if so that would tell you for sure what the problem is... When mine burned up it left a nasty black streak across it where the cap burned out Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #21 – May 30, 2018, 12:47:58 AM Is the IRCM module bolted to the strut tower? I am pretty sure they have to be grounded.The voltage on the RED/Light Green Stripe wire on the IRCM connector pin 13 should drop to ZERO when you turn the ignition switch off, and the fuel pump should stop.If the voltage is dropping to ZERO and the pump keeps running, the IRCM is broke. That is if you are in a stock wiring environment.Is the fuse 17 socket still getting hot?If the fuse 17 socket was shorted out with something because it was blowing fuses and it got hot enough to melt the fuse socket.Then the wire from fuse 17 to whatever was causing the overload would have gotten hot enough to melt the wire insulation.And it could have melted the insulation on adjacent wires in the same cable harness. So you could have some circuits shorted together.. Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #22 – May 31, 2018, 03:31:57 AM I never had any electrical burning smell in car. I did get a reman ECU this year and has to send back because my car wouldn't run at all. The IRCM is mounted on fender well or strut tower. As far as I know the car was all stock, but obviously the guy I bought the car from had alot of issues with it. I don't know if something got hot in the wiring and burnt the fuse panel or if the guy had something wired into it and overloaded it. Ive often wondered about the wiring. I'm constantly going through inginiton modules, my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine. My gauge cluster acts funny from time to time. I did do a dash swap in int a couple of years ago and I never noticed any burnt wires when I swapped the dash. Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #23 – May 31, 2018, 03:41:39 PM Quote from: wpblackfoxturbo;465963 my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine. The headlight switch has a built-in circuit breaker. It opens when it gets too hot and closes when it cools off.The fog lights put additional load on the headlight switch.Are the headlights and fog lights stock?If you look at the connector on the HL switch it will probably look like it has been overheating.A new switch and cable harness plug would be the fix. Or take the heavy electrical load off the HL switch by installing relays to carry the load. Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #24 – June 01, 2018, 02:03:13 AM Thanks. Car has original fog lights and I have sylvania ultra bulbs in it Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #25 – June 01, 2018, 03:22:47 PM Not familiar with those bulbs. Don't know if they draw a higher current than stock. Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #26 – June 02, 2018, 04:27:06 PM Quote from: softtouch;465967A new switch and cable harness plug would be the fix. Or take the heavy electrical load off the HL switch by installing relays to carry the load.This is a good idea no matter what, it will make the headlights brighter to by eliminating the "bottleneck" of the stock headlight switch, and is also a good fire prevention measure... Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #27 – June 02, 2018, 09:02:40 PM Article on installing relays for the headlights and fog lamps:http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/installing_headlight_relays.htm Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #28 – June 12, 2018, 12:08:52 PM Thanks for all yalls help.I haven't got around to doing much to the car. Quote Selected
Electrical issues Reply #29 – June 19, 2018, 10:07:27 PM Quote from: wpblackfoxturbo;465963I never had any electrical burning smell in car. I did get a reman ECU this year and has to send back because my car wouldn't run at all. The IRCM is mounted on fender well or strut tower. As far as I know the car was all stock, but obviously the guy I bought the car from had alot of issues with it. I don't know if something got hot in the wiring and burnt the fuse panel or if the guy had something wired into it and overloaded it. Ive often wondered about the wiring. I'm constantly going through inginiton modules, my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine. My gauge cluster acts funny from time to time. I did do a dash swap in int a couple of years ago and I never noticed any burnt wires when I swapped the dash.Check the wiring going to your dimmer switch. My '84 had issues there and did what your lights are doing. The insulation was breaking down allowing wires to touch and short out. Quote Selected
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