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Topic: OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings (Read 3337 times) previous topic - next topic

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

How much does the camber change when the pop rivet is drilled out on the OEM camber plate and then the camber plate and strut is moved and then the pop rivet is installed in different hole on an 87 T-Bird?

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OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #1 –
Doesn't anyone know the degree change?

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #3 –
That pop rivet isn't needed...

Don't waste time reinstalling it.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #4 –
Alignment check shows camber is -1.5 to -2 degrees. How much movement is needed to bring camber within spec? Is it an 1/8" 3/16" 1/4"? Will drill new hole for a new rivet to keep camber plate from slipping back. If the needed movement to correct camber is greater than what's available with the OEM setup well then the MMS plates with the smaller strut mount will be needed for the added clearance.

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #5 –
If the strut mounts slip, you have other issues besides a missing rivet.

All aftermarket CC plates don't use rivets, either.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #6 –
we had to can the rivit to put in brand new upper strut mounts.

told my youngest boy Chance that we would leave out the rivit and let the alignment shop pop one in when they see fit to get things dialed in.

now im paying attention to the people here who know the right answer.

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #8 –
Quote
TheFoeYouKnow
I think we first need to know how you got so much negative camber.


Lowered front springs caused the greater negative values.


Quote
Chuck W
If the strut mounts slip, you have other issues besides a missing rivet.


Metal to metal will slip unless it is serrated. So it's better to play it safe and keep the rivet feature than be sorry from a pot-hole hit or just the car vibrations.

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #9 –
Quote from: 87tbird_org_owner;461385
Lowered front springs caused the greater negative values.

Going to need those caster/camber plates I linked to.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.
 

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #11 –
Quote from: 87tbird_org_owner;461385



Metal to metal will slip unless it is serrated. So it's better to play it safe and keep the rivet feature than be sorry from a pot-hole hit or just the car vibrations.




I have NEVER had a strut mount slip on one of these cars in the past 25+ years I have been messing with them. Be it stock plates or aftermarket CC plates.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #12 –
Been running the Maximum Motorsports CC plates on my 93 coupe for over 17 years and on the Bird for about the same amount of time and never a slip.  These CC plates are put on all out road race cars with radical alignments and do not slip unless the poor putz did not assemble or torque them correctly.  Here is a shot of them on my Bird:



You can see that the bolting passing through the holes in the strut tower all have a slotted adjustment from right to left to compensate for the camber you want to achieve.  The upper plate (the one you see on top of the strut tower) can be flipped one way to produce a maximum amount of negative camber (racing) and then flipped the other way for a slight amount of negative camber (street).  You will also notice that the top plates have front to rear slots in which you see mine are maxed out to the rear.  This is to produce the maximum amount of caster as these cars need all the caster they can get to help with putting more negative camber into the loaded tire when cornering.  I have corrected for the bumpsteer on both of my cars due to the caster being maxed out as well as how low they are but on a typical street car lowered an inch or two this is not an issue.

Read MM's installation instructions as they do a really good job of explaining the how's and why's.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #13 –
Quote from: Aerocoupe;461418
Been running the Maximum Motorsports CC plates on my 93 coupe for over 17 years and on the Bird for about the same amount of time and never a slip.  These CC plates are put on all out road race cars with radical alignments and do not slip unless the poor putz did not assemble or torque them correctly.  Here is a shot of them on my Bird:


Do you mind saying what your caster and camber settings are? From the photo submitted it looks the camber is very negative going by the position of the strut shaft. Also can tell your caster setting is at the max negative is this also correct?

OEM Camber Plate Pop Rivet Settings

Reply #14 –
If he can't, I will. After my drop, I was able to use the factory plates to go from -2.8 to -2.1. After the MM C/C plates, I was able to set the camber to factory spec at -0.75. I was also now able to dial in more caster than factory, which is highly desirable. My caster is +4.5, with no cross caster. I can do these things myself because I'm an ASE Master mechanic and I naturally have access to the alignment rack. If your situation is different, you'll need to explain what you have and what you need directly to the tech who will be doing your alignment so that you are completely understood. Service advisors are likely to not get what you're asking for.
I would highly recommend using my alignment specs.  Of course, adjusting camber and caster will make it necessary to reset toe, so be a nice guy and make sure your jam nuts are free, maybe spray some penetrating oil before hand.
Last piece of advice, see about sitting in the car while the alignment is being done. This will help ensure that the car is set to spec considering your presence in the car.