99 Mercury Mountaineer April 30, 2016, 12:19:46 PM Some friends of ours have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer with transmission issues they are looking to sell. It has the 5.0 liter engine and I was wondering if this would be a good opportunity to upgrade my stock 84 CFI to SEFI. According to what I've read on this site I would need the heads, upper and lower intake, fuel rails, distributor, wiring harness, TV cable and computer from the donor vehicle. Is this correct? Also, are there any other bits from these vehicles I should keep (driveshaft, rear axle, etc.)? I believe the Mountaineer is a 4WD model too. Any advice is appreciated! Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #1 – April 30, 2016, 12:44:48 PM You'll need the front cover and accessories, as well as the oil pan and pickup tube from the Fox car. You'll also need the EGR spacer (preferably a 65mm aftermarket unit) and you'll have to do some work converting the Explorer type throttle body to use the T-bird throttle lever and shaft. 99 is a P headed engine, so you'll need specific Fox headers to avoid clearance issues with the spark plug wires. With the Fox type front cover, you'll use a TFI distributor in the 351 firing order. If you don't want to swap injector connectors, you'll have to get the early style 19# injectors, but you should use the rails from the Mountaineer. You'll also want a Mark VII EEC and wiring harness. I'd say Mustang, but there aren't that many 5.0 speed density Mustang harnesses out there to be had, and a Mark VII EEC and harness will probably be easier to find. You'll also end up having to convert to a H pipe for your duals, as the Y pipe setup won't work with the headers. I'm sure there's more small stuff, but you'll figure it out as you go. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #2 – April 30, 2016, 12:51:38 PM Being that you have an 84 car I would highly suggest that you get a Painless wiring harness for a 5.0 car and just use that. You do not need a factory Ford harness like the 87-88 cars do being that the engine harness is inter twined with the other harnesses in the car. I completely gutted the V8 CFI out of my 83 and it is carbed now with zero issues. If I ever go to injection I will use a Painless harness and skip speed density and go straight to mass air.I have a complete wiring diagram for the 83-84 cars so if you need a copy of that PM me your email address and I will send it to you. I just need to know the maximum size file you can receive in case I need to break it up into a couple emails. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #3 – April 30, 2016, 02:36:18 PM I used the P heads on my engine...the headers I used are the BBK 1515, still have an issue with one plug wire though. Dig in, lots of good info around on this. It's worth it when done, too. Feels like a big block compared to the old cfi stuff.. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #4 – April 30, 2016, 09:31:58 PM Im doing the same swap right now on my 83. I will have a step by step in my build thread here if you want to follow along to see how much work it is. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #5 – April 30, 2016, 10:09:01 PM I suppose some thought will have to be given to the fuel pumps. If memory serves, CFI cars have a lift pump in the tank and a boost pump on the frame. In the SEFI setup, you'll only have a high pressure pump in the tank. You'll want that one. It'll take a tank drop and you'll have to make a line to go in place of the boost pump. Someone who has or had a CFI car my have to correct me on that. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #6 – April 30, 2016, 10:37:13 PM Thanks for all the replies so far and keep them coming too! The 5.0 liter engines from the Explorers and Mountaineers all use the mass air flow set-up, correct? Sounds like I might be better off pulling the complete engine out of the Mountaineer. Anyway, I do appreciate all the feedback! Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #7 – April 30, 2016, 10:57:52 PM Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;455091I suppose some thought will have to be given to the fuel pumps. If memory serves, CFI cars have a lift pump in the tank and a boost pump on the frame. In the SEFI setup, you'll only have a high pressure pump in the tank. You'll want that one. It'll take a tank drop and you'll have to make a line to go in place of the boost pump. Someone who has or had a CFI car my have to correct me on that.No reason you cant just stick a Walbro 255 pump on the frame in place of the stock one and leave the intank pump alone.Im keeping all of the factory 2.3t fuel system in my car for my 5.0 swap but with a Walbro 255 on the frame.Due to this Im also building a single 3" exhaust so I wont need move the pump or filter to keep it simple. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #8 – May 01, 2016, 08:50:49 AM I used P heads with no issues. BBK unequal length headers, and a short spark plug on number 7 I believe and my plug wires had 90 degree boots. I started with a 99 Mountaineer engine as well. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #9 – May 01, 2016, 10:27:48 AM I started with a 96 GT40 engine, switched to P heads later when I did my rebuild. A word of advice in regard to P heads: do not use domed pistons with P heads. I had to have the plug bosses machined down to keep them from hitting the pistons, which leads me to my next piece of advice: clay your engine on the stand, even if you expect no problems. I have the same header setup as Vinnie, but I'm less pleased with it. Every year I have to replace the #7 plug boot, and to me, it gets old. I have to remove my left header to replace that plug. I shouldn't have sold my 3 bar heads. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #10 – May 01, 2016, 08:08:07 PM You can get a couple of compression style unions and some tubing and patch the location where the fuel pump on the rail is located to facilitate dual exhaust. If you choose to go with the external high pressure pump and leave the low pressure unit in the tank then pull the low pressure unit and replace it as I am sure it has a bunch of hours on it.For the P headed guys Summit sells spark plug boot protectors that slip over the plug wires and once you snap the spark plug boot in place simply slide the high temp material over the boot and you should be good to go. I have no experience with this but a couple guys that have these heads on Mustangs do this and it seems to help a lot. I use the same material in a roll and wrap my clutch cables to extend their lives and it has helped tremendously. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #11 – May 02, 2016, 07:28:07 PM I ran these with GT40P heads (and still do with Edelbrock Performers): https://lmr.com/item/M9430P50/79-93-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Stainless-Steel-Shorty-Headers-For-Gt40p-HeadsYou can use regular spark plugs and plug wires without issue. Plus you can change plugs without pulling the headers off. Don't screw around with short plugs and 90* plug wire boots. Just pick up the FRPP headers designed for the GT40P heads. Quote Selected
99 Mercury Mountaineer Reply #12 – May 03, 2016, 08:35:54 PM The Ford racing shorty headers worked for my P heads. No special wires or plugs needed. Quote Selected
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