EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Topic: EEC tuning with Moates QH. (Read 14672 times) previous topic - next topic

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #15 – July 07, 2015, 10:36:06 PM

If you want it to run right before you tune the car you need a F1VF sensor (89-93 5.0 Mustang sensor), the red 103 sample tube (you'll have to buy the equivalent tube from MAC), and you'll need a conical K&N filter RE0920. The 30lb calibration will NOT work with the stock air box or cold air kit. I've got a 76mm C&L MAF with a purple sample tube 099, K&N RE0920 filter, and 30lb red top FRPP injectors. My Thunderbird runs and drives like stock without any sort of tuner. Is it the right way to do it? No but it does work ok. At some point I plan on putting a 90mm Lightning MAF on the car and tuning it. I bet it will pick up a couple of HP with a tune over the calibrated MAF.

If you need a F1VF sensor I do have a spare one that works fine. PM me if you can't find one locally.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #16 – July 07, 2015, 10:49:47 PM

I think I have the 19# tube for the F1ZF (MAC #101). I ordered a F1ZF (and for good measure a 55mm stock maf housing to put it in for baseline if necessary) on ebay yesterday. On the other hand, fiveologyracing provided me with the maf transfer table for the F2VF in the 73mm unit with the 19# tube today, they gave me a .xls with both the 19# table, and the difference between the 19 and 30 pound tubes, so I can do a little simple math and have the values for the 30# tube. We'll see how it goes over the next few days.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #17 – July 08, 2015, 10:50:03 AM

What tubes do you have? The 101, 099, and 096?

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #18 – July 08, 2015, 11:02:33 AM

Quote from: JeremyB;449555

What tubes do you have? The 101, 099, and 096?

I have 101 and 106. Right now, I'm running the 106, with the F2VF maf transfer, the 30lb breakpoints, and scaled displacement. Scaling the displacement smoothed the idle and radically improved the power curve and response. I don't know yet what the whole curve feels like, as my morning drive is through 6 miles of neighborhoods.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #19 – July 08, 2015, 11:47:39 AM

What's the 106? Don't see it on C&L's site.

Obviously, your setup is in the ballpark, even with the odd mix of bits.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #20 – July 08, 2015, 12:53:36 PM

I guess the mac part #s are CT1 and CT6. Sorry for the mixup. http://shop.macperformance.com/MAC-Ford-Mustang-50L-V8-1986-1993-73mm-Mass-Air-Meter-MA7386.htm

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #21 – July 08, 2015, 08:10:08 PM

From my continuing email exchanges with Brian of Fiveology Racing:
Mike,

I did confirm with your original order that you should have received a 73mm housing calibrated for 30lb injectors. I only made reference to our 70mm housing to illustrate the use of the F2VF-AA in lue of the F1ZF-AA sensor. Both sensors can be used, each requiring a different calibration tube regardless of the aftermarket housing diameter, to account for the OEM calibration variations between the 55mm and 70mm housings. Therefore you should have received a "CT9" tube with your 73mm housing using F2VF-AA. If it is a "CT9" it should have a dot underneath the number to differentiate from a "CT6". If there is no dot present then the housing was labeled incorrectly. A "CT6" is a 30lb calibration for the F1ZF-AA sensor, which might explain the issues you have experienced using it with the F2VF-AA sensor. I can send you a "CT9" tube if you like. The "CT1" calibration tube you purchased from MAC is not compatible with F2VF-AA. If you want to ensure the mass air meter is set to the factory transfer function using a 19lb calibration you need to obtain a "CT3". Please let me know if I can assist you further

And my reply:

Thank you very much, Brian, that is the single most useful collection of information I have read since I started this last week. My calibration tube does indeed NOT have a dot anyplace near the number which appears to be 6 when oriented the same as my CT1 tube. The 1 stamping has a characteristic "base" at the bottom and "flag" at the top similar to the times new roman font, which leads me to believe I'm an viewing the other tube correctly. This answers every question. I gladly accept your offer to send me a CT9 calibration tube. Do you have my shipping info from my previous order? If so, I'm in the same place. You have been incredibly helpful.

I'll report back when I have something to add. I should have an F1ZF-AA showing up as well, So I should be able to try it both ways.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #22 – July 09, 2015, 10:22:14 AM

That's what I've been saying, with C&L part numbers.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #23 – July 09, 2015, 02:39:45 PM

If you want the car to run correctly with 30lb injectors and the 73mm MAF you have you need to set it up as follows:

73mm MAF
CT6 tube
F1VF sensor
K&N RE0920 conical filter clamped directly to the end of the MAF

That is how that particular setup is designed to run. A C&L MAF (or any imitation of it, IE a MAC MAF) is designed so that 30lb and larger injectors require a conical filter clamped directly to the end of the MAF ONLY. You can not use a stock airbox in that situation unless you tune for it. The 19lb calibration is for a stock airbox, there are two different 24lb calibrations depending on whether a stock airbox or conical filter is used as well. See here for more information: http://www.cnlperformance.com/MAF_info.php?section=15

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #24 – July 09, 2015, 06:39:56 PM

Option 2 would be

73mm MAF
CT1 tube
F1FV Sensor
Stock Induction
Use actual 30lb injector slopes

Option 3

73mm MAF
CT9 tube
F2VF Sensor
Conical Filter
Use 19 lb injector slopes, scaled to account for 30 lb differences
Scale displacement (30/19)

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #25 – July 09, 2015, 10:18:03 PM

My plan is to try each option 2 and 3. I really want to run the CT1 (which I have) with a F1ZF-AA (which is coming) with the 30lb slopes (which I have). Alternately, a CT9 is coming, which will allow me to try the F2VF-AA with it and the breakpoint for the 30lb injectors, but the 19lb slopes. I'd rather run the CT1 and the F1ZF-AA with the 30lb slopes, etc. Reason being is that this way, load should calculate correctly on its own and I don't have to screw with it. This setup should also bring me the best running tune, potentially better than I've had yet since getting the new build running last summer, later I can get wide-bands and fine-tune.

Interesting side note: turns out the factory digital tach is not only inaccurate (as we all knew already), but it's REALLY shagING INACCURATE. at 70MPH it registers 3200RPM for me, Tunerpro RT has the EEC reporting 2100RPM I got the car with a non standard diff ratio that I always figured (based on the tach) was 3.73:1, it's not. It's 3.27:1, because the digital tach is SUPER EXTRA DREAMWORLD shagED UP INACCURATE.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #26 – July 10, 2015, 12:14:51 AM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;449614

Interesting side note: turns out the factory digital tach is not only inaccurate (as we all knew already), but it's REALLY shagING INACCURATE. at 70MPH it registers 3200RPM for me, Tunerpro RT has the EEC reporting 2100RPM I got the car with a non standard diff ratio that I always figured (based on the tach) was 3.73:1, it's not. It's 3.27:1, because the digital tach is SUPER EXTRA DREAMWORLD shagED UP INACCURATE.

Could have told you that: http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?38600-The-stock-digital-tach-is-apparently-very-inaccurate&highlight=

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #27 – July 10, 2015, 12:38:29 AM

There's got to be a way to fix it, all I'm saying. Like a pulse selection jumper, or an IC to replace, or something.

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #28 – July 10, 2015, 03:26:51 AM

On my cars with digi dash and 2:73 gears, they always read 1600Rpm's at 65 and 1800 at 75mph. Seems about right to me?

EEC tuning with Moates QH.

Reply #29 – July 10, 2015, 10:57:33 AM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;449620

There's got to be a way to fix it, all I'm saying. Like a pulse selection jumper, or an IC to replace, or something.

If you figure out what it is let me know. I'd love to make the one in my car more accurate.