2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... February 10, 2015, 09:34:28 PM ok, my 88 TC went to losing water and I had a cooling pipe leaking, well, fixed it and then all seemed normal, checked the water a few days later and its low. put some coolant in and then it goes to skipping a little. well I checked the oil and its a milkshake. didn't think I had run it hot but oh well, pulled it down expecting to find a blown gasket and I got nothing.......gasket looks perfect, I cant see any water traces or compression leaks to the water jackets. looking closer I see on pistons 2,3 and 4, the edge of the piston is clean right beside the water jacket on 2 and 3, number 4 is clean around the edge from the water jacket to the big square jackets on the rear of the block. the clean spot is only about 1/4 in from the edge and maybe a 1/2 inch in at the most. number 4 is about 2 inches around the edge.....only thing I can think of is the head lifted? but cant really see it in the gasket at all.......ideas.....need input...... Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #1 – February 10, 2015, 10:19:17 PM If it was in a 5.0L, I'd say it sounds almost like a cracked block... :( Like you, I'd guess a head gasket on a 2.3L since the weak link is usually the gasket, not the block. Perhaps check to see if the head is warped? Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #2 – February 10, 2015, 10:26:22 PM Have your head magnafluxed. And just because you don't see it on the gasket, doesn't mean it's not there. ARP studs when you go back together. Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #3 – February 10, 2015, 10:35:33 PM yea, got a turbo v8 mustang, with you on the block idea..... it had regular head bolts in it, and is completely stock except for the motorsport cam kit.....the engine had been gone through prior to me getting it. I think they may have re-used the factory headbolts...... Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #4 – February 10, 2015, 10:40:47 PM Which you can do because they're not TTY, but studs are preferable, especially on forced induction engines. Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #5 – February 10, 2015, 10:47:46 PM Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;444173Which you can do because they're not TTY, but studs are preferable, especially on forced induction engines.ahh...... thought they were. all my SC birds had the TTY's.....I agree on the head studs.....with it not showing any traces on the gasket what would be your first check for the problem?you already told me.....lol....duh. Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #6 – February 13, 2015, 08:09:53 PM ok, upon removing the lower intake from the head, I found the problem. the passage where the coolant temp sensor is was full of rust, blocking off the water feed that comes in under the intake in the small hose. also the intake itself is corroded away at that port. that is where I had coolant on the lower intake before I took it apart. also looks like it was seeping coolant into the adjacent intake ports. now for the water in the oil, it either ran down the intake runners and by the rings, or the oil cooler has to be leaking. that will be taken off tomorrow........now, who has a lower intake that is in good shape I can get for a good price? Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #7 – February 13, 2015, 09:19:50 PM First off i have several lowers. I am the 2.3 go to guy. I worked with FORD back in the day and repaired the issues with piston scuffing on early motors. Ford took my ROD design and used it as a recall and design change. Just posting my credentials on the 2.3 . I have built tuns of 2.3 Ford engines. Now no need for studs in an engine under 400WHP and under 24Lbs of boost. The stock replacement 6 point TTY bolts are the best by far other than studs for an all out build. We use the replacement Ford TTY bolts exclusively in my shop for street engines they are the best. No need for studs but if you want to go for them be my guest. Never reuse the 12 point stock bolts. With that i have a lower if you are interested. By the way did you have the exhaust seats checked for cracks. That is where they crack. You need to install STELITE SEATS in the exhaust only. And never use the oil cooler/ Wormer they leak coolant in the engine all the time. They do nothing. Remove the cooler and install an LF1 ford motorcraft filter and use MOBIL1 oil only. If you want the skinny on how to set that engine up feel free to ask me i have built many a mean 2.3 ford Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #8 – February 13, 2015, 10:19:19 PM I contacted the guy that assembled the engine and he did reuse the old head bolts.....and is the water jacket a problem area in the intake on these 2.3's? And how much shipped to 28472....And one last question, how much can you make before the stock rotating assembly gives up?Thanks!! Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #9 – February 13, 2015, 10:33:04 PM People have pushed 400hp on stock shortblocksI wouldn't push more than 350 on a stock bottom end if you care about the motor I believe the rod bolts are the first weak link Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #10 – February 13, 2015, 11:22:22 PM Rod bolts are the weak point that is true. but the RPM not the Hp is basically the issue. normally 7200 is max but you are correct 360- 400 is about it. But that is a lot!! Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #11 – February 14, 2015, 08:05:17 AM Are we talking flywheel HP or at the wheels? Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #12 – February 14, 2015, 09:39:52 AM Wheel hp app 350-360 On a Mustang Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #13 – February 14, 2015, 10:47:25 AM That's plenty..... Quote Selected
2.3 turbo engine gurus step inside.... Reply #14 – February 14, 2015, 12:03:52 PM Soooo.....about that lower... Quote Selected
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