Rocker adjustment....

Topic: Rocker adjustment.... (Read 28275 times) previous topic - next topic

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #135 – November 11, 2014, 12:15:37 AM

I agree with you. A lower idle would be nice. I'm also wanting all the variables worked out. I need more time in the week. One day at a time.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #136 – November 11, 2014, 09:03:34 AM

My car has no tos code and a rock steady idle. In not pushing anything past where it was designed to be. Just maybe a slightly worn out sensor, that still reads correctly. I've never even slotted my tps or adjusted it. Just bolted down and verified it.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #137 – November 11, 2014, 08:02:24 PM

Ok as usual i am wasting my time. But look at what 302 caption says. It clearly says .6 Volts as TPS closed throttle according to Ford so be it as it may Ford says idle should be adjusted to 700-725 with IAC disconnected Because i know Vinny has a non stock cam he should start a bit on the high side for min idle and auto trannys as well. But Min idle can be anywhere around 650-750 according to Ford. As the matter of fact the 2.3 is set closer to 750-800 and that is also determined by the bleed hole in the throttle plate. Now adjust the TPS to any god dam setting you want AS i have proven several times WOT parameters come in sooner with a lower TPS setting. The ecm calculates this not me. Base plus 2.71. Now i am swamped in the shop and i have a headache discussing this with no reason because that is how it is done and that is how i do it. With that have a great god dam evening

Once the ecm reaches Base TPS voltage plus 2.71 the ecm goes in to WOT. Adding more voltage after that point is meaningless because The ECM is already commanded WOT. So going to lets say 4.0 means nothing once the magic number is reached. That number is Base plus 2.71. Does it make a difference if lower YES as the ECM adds fuel and timing at that point. So sooner is better than later. Now i have a real bad headache and i am going to sy good night!!

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #138 – November 11, 2014, 08:21:19 PM

1 First bring the engine up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off and unplug the Idle Air Control (IAC).
3. Start engine and using a screwdriver adjust the base idle to 700 – 725 RPM using the screw on the throttle body
4 Set the TPS to app .65 volts
5 connect the IAC and test drive the vehicle to relearn the new settings

This is from FORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #139 – November 11, 2014, 08:50:18 PM

Tom, I'll give it a try.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #140 – November 11, 2014, 08:52:48 PM

Actually this is right from ford racing.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #141 – November 11, 2014, 09:12:34 PM

I'm in for that. I like Ford literature. LOL. I think that's how it was mentioned earlier. It'll be when it warms up sin a few days.. Friggin cold out there right now. Of course it's getting cold, I have work I need to do.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #142 – November 11, 2014, 09:44:11 PM

Either way, this stuff won't help you. A TPS sensor is either good or bad. If it has full range, reads the throttle movement consistently, and is within an expected Voltage range when the key is turned to ignition-on, the TPS sensor will not change how the car behaves. It matters none where the Voltage is at base idle, with the expected range. With mass air, the TPS sensor even plays a lesser role than speed density. With speed density, your car wouldn't have a clue how much air is entering the motor. With mass air sensors still functioning, you can limp home, or to a shop.

I don't know why all the fuss about TPS and base idle Voltage. Anyone that knows anything about electronics/electrical engineering will understand that a good TPS sensor for these engines will work the same no matter which Voltage range it is working within. Everything is based off of distance (delta) from base Voltage. In a linear switch or sensor, this delta will increase/decrease at the same rate, no matter what.

Now if we were talking about a 10V or 12V reference voltage from a 12V system, without something added into the circuit to keep the voltage consistent, using a lower base-idle voltage could help. We're talking about a relatively stable 5V reference voltage though - even if the battery is drained and only providing 10V (or you get into losses from small wiring harnesses), the 0-5V range is still available for a sensor's full sweep.

I'm curious Vinnie - what tools do you have in your home shop/garage? It would be good to know what the limitations are with your equipment, in terms of troubleshooting capability. There are ways to rig up something to get compressed air into the motor to check your valve seats, and push air into your intake to check for leaks, without needing to even purchase various gauges or testing products. Or a product such as this can allow you to thread right in and go: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w84003 Even a compression gauge could be used for inserting compressor air into a cylinder, if you use the hose similar to the one in that link, and adapt an air compressor hose to attach. Close valves to check for valve leaks, open intake valve to push air into intake (vacuum leaks) or open exhaust valve to push air into exhaust (exhaust leaks). It could take a day (garage preferable at this time of year) to pinpoint every leak, but it would help pinpoint any troublesome seals. Fill and feel around for air escaping (or hear it if the leak is bad enough)! Anyway, just a thought.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #143 – November 11, 2014, 09:57:43 PM

As of right now, I'm having no concerns about the TPS.

Tools...basic tools, nothing fancy. Air compressor, vacuum gauge, volt meter, torque wrench...the basics.

I'm going to do the balance test and run the codes for KOER. After that I'll address things. I am going to swap out the vacuum lines under the upper intake, and have thought about swapping the lower intake gaskets as a just in case. I didn't find a leak, but there could be, and, as I stated, before the new cam and heads, I didn't have this issue. Lower intake gaskets and vacuum lines are $20. No big deal for a couple of hours work or less. Plus, it could answer a lot of questions I have.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #144 – November 11, 2014, 10:31:58 PM

Quote from: vinnietbird;440502

As of right now, I'm having no concerns about the TPS.

Tools...basic tools, nothing fancy. Air compressor, vacuum gauge, volt meter, torque wrench...the basics.

I'm going to do the balance test and run the codes for KOER. After that I'll address things. I am going to swap out the vacuum lines under the upper intake, and have thought about swapping the lower intake gaskets as a just in case. I didn't find a leak, but there could be, and, as I stated, before the new cam and heads, I didn't have this issue. Lower intake gaskets and vacuum lines are $20. No big deal for a couple of hours work or less. Plus, it could answer a lot of questions I have.

I'm paranoid about coolant and would change the oil twice after pulling the lower intake. Any green bubble that I see in the lifter valley and the oil gets a change, run for a few minutes, and changed again. Lower intake gets expensive!

Of course, use quality gaskets. The cheap basic paper ones (also from Felpro) will just split according to my great past experience. I check the mating surfaces for flatness and use studs to pull the intake on evenly/compress the gaskets evenly.

Unless extremely old, the hoses would be the last place I would look for a vacuum leak. They simply seal well due to the flexible nature of the material.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #145 – November 12, 2014, 01:39:14 AM

Quote from: jandmmustangs;440495

Actually this is right from ford racing.

And my quote was direct from the GUFB. That would be written by the guys who designed the system. .99999v is within specs. If that or .6v makes you warm and fuzzy inside, great! Go for it! It's not absolutely necessary is the point.

GUFB Document

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #146 – November 12, 2014, 07:30:01 AM

Agreed. As I stated, the TPS isn't on my hot list. As far as gaskets, I always use quality gaskets, and I agree about the oil. I always change it after an intake gasket swap.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #147 – November 13, 2014, 06:11:08 AM

Scope readings on TPS and see what is really happening. I would suggest doing that before condeming my findings about base voltages

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #148 – November 13, 2014, 07:25:50 AM

No condemning of anything. I really don't think my issue is the TPS. I can't help but think it's fuel or ignition related. More ignition related. It's hard to explain why. But the car feels like it's missing just a little bit, the occasional pop through the t-body, and a tiny bit of surging. THEN, turn it off....re-start it, good to go....for a minute or so, then back to the same old stuff. NOW, that diagnosis is speculation. My car did this before about 2 years ago. I, for the life of me, can't remember what fixed it....a new coil or a new ignition module, or a new fuel pump. Just not sure. A lot has happened with the Sport since then.

Rocker adjustment....

Reply #149 – November 13, 2014, 09:36:04 AM

Vinnie,

I know you don't have a ton of time but could you summarize what the problem is and what has been done to date to fix it? I am so lost on this thread now that I have no idea which way is up. I'm pretty sure the whole rocker arm adjustment thing has been beat to death and that is now not a concern, maybe a new thread? I was just thinking that off the Subject line alone most people would never find this other info if they were searching.

Darren