Bellhousing cracked Reply #30 – October 12, 2014, 01:36:39 AM When I pulled my t-5 out, I only had 4 of 6bellhousing bolts in it. Cant remeber if I forgot to put them in, or if they somehow didnt get tightened and worked the way out.Im curious what you found when you re mocked everything up. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #31 – October 13, 2014, 11:32:05 AM Quote from: Haystack;438942When I pulled my t-5 out, I only had 4 of 6bellhousing bolts in it. Cant remeber if I forgot to put them in, or if they somehow didnt get tightened and worked the way out.Im curious what you found when you re mocked everything up.I didn't find a problem mocked up. Got it installed in the car last night, the same way. Converter sat the same, but this time I tried to spin it by hand and all was well, including after the bellhousing bolts were tightened. I went 30ft/lbs this time. I wonder if the people suggesting up to 70ft/lbs are going off of (manual) iron bellhousings. I saw quite a few recommendations of a 45-65 range, but also some recommendations of 25-40ft/lbs. Since I saw a few 25 and a few 33 recommendations, I went 30.I have to finish getting transmission mount nuts on, driveshaft, exhaust, trans dipstick, and upper intake. After these, I can do the real test - does the car reverse and move forward once filled with enough fluid...It sounds fine, other than low fluid, and doesn't bind up, turning by hand. I sure hope it was a successful case swap. I tore it back apart a couple times since I had questions about some spots. Some torrington bearings also began to fell out of random places on reassembly - it was difficult to find exactly where they went, but between exploded diagrams and some forum posts, everything seems to be bearinged correctly.The clutches and everything in the trans looked perfect. No heat marks anywhere with clutches looked near new. I didn't caliper anything for this case swap - figured a factory 25k mile trans that looks clean inside should be fine enough to simply assemble with new seals and rings. Other than an anti-rattle clip, everything already had the newer designed parts, such as acspoogeulator pistons. The OD servo piston is a huge pain to install solo! Literally - so much thumb pain trying to push it in far enough to get the snap ring deep in the hole. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #32 – October 13, 2014, 01:15:29 PM Quote from: Seek;438993I didn't find a problem mocked up. Got it installed in the car last night, the same way. Converter sat the same, but this time I tried to spin it by hand and all was well, including after the bellhousing bolts were tightened. I went 30ft/lbs this time. I wonder if the people suggesting up to 70ft/lbs are going off of (manual) iron bellhousings. I saw quite a few recommendations of a 45-65 range, but also some recommendations of 25-40ft/lbs. Since I saw a few 25 and a few 33 recommendations, I went 30.I go by the manual if there is one, but in this case, you can just go by generic fastener guidelines. The transmission bellhousing is meaty enough that it being Iron or AL isn't going to make a difference. What size/type fasteners are they? I've got 9.8 M8-1.25 on my 4R70W mated to a '02 3.8L in my garage. Those require ~27 ft-lb for proper preload. Going much higher than that will begin to yield the fastener. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #33 – October 13, 2014, 05:04:52 PM Quote from: JeremyB;438994I go by the manual if there is one, but in this case, you can just go by generic fastener guidelines. The transmission bellhousing is meaty enough that it being Iron or AL isn't going to make a difference. What size/type fasteners are they? I've got 9.8 M8-1.25 on my 4R70W mated to a '02 3.8L in my garage. Those require ~27 ft-lb for proper preload. Going much higher than that will begin to yield the fastener.I believe the 302 blocks use 7/16 bolts, likely a coarse thread. They are larger than what fit into the 3.8 block I picked up. Themselves, they should be good for 50ft/lbs easily.Also, you sure that is the right size? My 3.8 block needed M10-1.50-45 or something. No idea what it came out of, but those are the bolts I picked up to bolt the two together for mockups.Now that I've seen the internals of a transmission and not so terrified of them anymore, I really want to find a cheap core to build-up. Seems like a fun little project - pick and choose parts over time to build a really strong transmission. There's a complete 4r70w 4-hours away, listed for $50. Something closer would be nice. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #34 – October 13, 2014, 05:23:07 PM Quote from: Seek;439000I believe the 302 blocks use 7/16 bolts, likely a coarse thread. They are larger than what fit into the 3.8 block I picked up. Themselves, they should be good for 50ft/lbs easily.Also, you sure that is the right size? My 3.8 block needed M10-1.50-45 or something. No idea what it came out of, but those are the bolts I picked up to bolt the two together for mockups.You're right, actually pulled a bolt out. It's M10-1.5. ~40 ft-lbs. You're also right that 7/16" coarse should be good to 50 lb-ft if it is grade 5 and is probably what you should torque it to unless there is official guidance otherwise. Will everything go sideways if it's at 30 ft-lbs? Probably not! Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #35 – October 15, 2014, 12:34:18 AM So I got the car on the ground, minus exhaust for other reasons.Converter got a quart before install.Filled with 5qts from dipstick for 6 totalran in park, turned offadded 2 more quarts for 8 totalran and started to feel it want to pull slightly in forward/reverseadded 2 more quarts for 10 totalran and car is starting to goadded 1 more quart for 11 totalI have some LOUD (nearly overpowering open-header exhaust idle) high-pitched noise that is a steady tone, constant, and won't go away. RPM, park, reverse, neutral, forward, nothing changes the tone.It's too late to pull outside without an exhaust and poke around with a hose up to my ear. I don't think this noise can be trans? Anyone know what noises transmissions can make? I sure hope I opened up a vacuum leak someplace. With the jerk of switching between drive and reverse, I would think the pump is working fine. I'd also expect the pump to change noise at different rpm's, if it was the cause?I can't find a single example online of pump noise that sounds anything like what I'm hearing. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #36 – October 15, 2014, 01:31:42 AM Went out there to grab a sound clip with the phone - nothing now. I heard one chirp, then no more noise. Need to try reversing out tomorrow and see how the thing engages.If I had a high-pressure gauge, I would be testing the pressures first. I do have an OTC 400psi gauge coming so I can have one on-hand.Still not sure what the noise was, and why it suddenly disappeared. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #37 – October 15, 2014, 09:56:18 AM Might have been some trapped air somewhere and when you shut if off and let it sit it worked its way out. Just a thought as I know nothing about auto's which is why I swapped in a T-5 back in the late 90's when I switched to a carbed motor.Darren Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #38 – October 15, 2014, 10:52:29 AM Quote from: Aerocoupe;439067Might have been some trapped air somewhere and when you shut if off and let it sit it worked its way out. Just a thought as I know nothing about auto's which is why I swapped in a T-5 back in the late 90's when I switched to a carbed motor.DarrenI thought the same thing/cavitation, but no idea why it sounded the same at 700rpms versus 2000rpms. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #39 – October 15, 2014, 12:13:19 PM What about contacting this guy:http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/Home.htmlHe is pretty highly thought of on several of the Mustang websites.Darren Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #40 – October 15, 2014, 12:52:29 PM Quote from: Aerocoupe;439075What about contacting this guy:http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/Home.htmlHe is pretty highly thought of on several of the Mustang websites.DarrenSilverfox is always swamped! I was checking out his transmissions sometime back.I will test a bit more thoroughly this evening. I don't see how much can be messed up with a trans case swap - as long as the torrington bearings are in the right spots, and clutch packs are complete (untouched by me), with new seals, rings, properly installed/piston-in-notch reverse and overdrive bands, and of course the spring clip(s) and anti-rattle clips, it all should work! Sounds like a lot, but it's pretty straightforward how it all slides together. Just soak in fluid and install part, then repeat, until it's all in the case. If I was putting in new drums or clutches, I would perform some measurements.I had the pump that came out of the trans, and a spare I picked up - both looked identical. I couldn't find what to look for regarding any "pump damage" - the converter simply lines up with an aluminum gear and pops in. I did put on new seals and rings, but nothing else appeared to need replacement. The center gear was fine, without any spots being mashed up by a converter pressing on it incorrectly.I have NO problem with the few steps required to swap output shafts. 7 tooth all the way in my future transmissions. I didn't have teflon seals on hand though, so used new Ford slit seals. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #41 – October 15, 2014, 10:25:21 PM Pulled out of garage fine. Cleaned up garage. Pulled back in and noise is back. This time it changes with rpm. Looks like I'll put it up in the air again with expectation of pump replacement, verifying the filter is seated correctly first. It moves forward and reverse like normal so pressure seems fine. Pressure gauge will be here tomorrow.Noise: http://www.masejoer.com/whine.mp3Notice how the noise stops. It randomly comes back. I gave up for the night after the noise would not go away for 60-seconds. I figure it's time to find what's going on before running it much more - gauge will help a lot. I don't remember ever having issues such as this, getting potentially excess air out, any previous time I've put the aod or 4r70w in. Always quiet. Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #42 – October 16, 2014, 12:09:38 AM Sounds like a fuel pump.... Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #43 – October 16, 2014, 02:09:47 AM Quote from: jrad235;439117Sounds like a fuel pump....No, sounds like a loud warning alarm. It's annoyingly loud. Note open-header exhaust versus noise volume levels.The most annoying thing about pulling the trans is removing the heatercore hoses so the core doesn't get damaged... Quote Selected
Bellhousing cracked Reply #44 – October 16, 2014, 12:15:40 PM Is there an easier way to get to the top bellhousing bolts without having the transmission leaning down at a steepangle? If I could get something on the top bolts without leaning the transmission too much, I wouldn't have to deal with the upper intake and heater lines. Even with pivot joints on extensions, it has always seemed impossible to get to the top bolts without dropping the transmission enough where the heater lines and intake start to bind/hit firewall.THAT is the most annoying part of transmission pull for me. The 4 lower bolts are fine - after all, the dipstick mounts to the top-most lower bolt on the passenger side. Quote Selected
Topic: Bellhousing cracked (Read 10719 times)
previous topic - next topic
