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Topic: 84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo (Read 3611 times) previous topic - next topic

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #16 –
Quote from: kwilli95;423728
just put new plugs and wires on,
i got the KOKR test to work and got codes 25,34,77,25

25 knock sensor and 77 WOT (goose test). When you got the "10" code you were supposed to floor the gas pedal momentarily.
34 The EGR valve didn't move when it tried to test it. EGR solenoid bad, no vacuum to the solenoid, no vacuum from the solenoid to the EGR or the EGR valve is seized up.

You should try to get the KOEO working.

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #17 –
thanks again. found the vacuum line to the egr solenoid disconnected, egr holds vaccum. cleared codes with KOEO.
 i also raised the timing to 12 degrees and it helped the idle problem but i still don't think it is the solution.
also replaced the cap and rotor. i going to let it cool down and see what happens when i start it back up

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #18 –
the car still runs like , i drove it and it dies when going to idle. i got no codes for KOEO. the car is very slow to accelerate and doesn't go over 4000rpms, is there away to check and make sure the turbo is working correctly.

im out of ideas!

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #19 –
koer test gave me codes 21(Cooling Temperature sensor out of specified
range or ECT out of range),25 ( Knock not sensed during Dynamic
Response Test)

anyone have a idea where to go from here?

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #20 –
check for good spark and compression.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #21 –
With the new plugs gap them at 35 and install new wires. Once again you need to do a MIN idle setting. You also need to rebuild or replace the IAC as i have found out many many years ago they have to close completely. And the only way to do that is replace it with a new one or modify the one you have. Once again with a known good IAC set the MIN idle and follow the ford procedure to the T!! The codes  you are getting are common. I always disconnect the Knock sensor and substitute a resistive load on the wires. BUT!!! You have to have a good working ECT sensor otherwise yiou will be chasing Balloons. Good luck to you
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!
 

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #22 –
ill do a compression test today, could a bad ECT put the car in some kind of basic running mode?
 i replaced the IAC and the connect because the insulation around the wires was falling apart.
I set the gap to .35 for the plugs.

what is the MIN idle setting?

84 cougar xr7 2.3 turbo

Reply #23 –
Set plugs tighter for the turbo 4s .030" . Yes the engine coolant temp. sensor can fail .The ecm thinks it is cold and keeps enrichment(choke) on. The temp sensor for the gauge is separate from the one for the ecm. The minimum idle setting is as follows; warm engine,remove plug to idle air control. Adjust throttle stop/idle speed on throttle body to 550-750 rpm on tach. Plug idle air control back in. Have you adjusted the throttle position sensor?