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Topic: 1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump (Read 3784 times) previous topic - next topic

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

my digital oil gauge show one bar then a blank spot then two more bars, I replaced oil pressure sending unit, gauge still remains same,  I removed sending unit and installed a standard oil pressure gauge.  when I start the engine the oil pressure show 48 to 50 pounds (idle) as engine warms up the oil pressure start to drop eventually down to 5 -10 pounds at idle.  If I raise the rpm the oil pressure does not go up...  could this be a bad oil pump or blocked oil pickup screen or bad bearings?

engine is a fuel injected 302 v8 with 161,000 miles .oil and filter has always been changed every 3500 mile since I owned it (98,000) miles.  If I have to change the oil pump can I do so by undoing the motor mounts and using my engine hoist-  hoist the engine up enough for the pan to clear the crossmember-allowing enough room to drop the pan???

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #1 –
your cold pressure is fine. I'm assuming the engine is just starting to get a bit worn out.

if your worried about it, swap to a thicker oil.the gauges problem could be internal to the digi dash. if the sensor reads low or has a wiring issue, it will constantly beep. the problem probably isn't your sensor.

mine was bad and I eventually just grounded it so it would stop beeping. it then just showed full bars.

it does not take much pressure to lubricate an engine. as long as you have no lifter noise or chatter, id leave it alone. maybe throw some 10w-40 in it.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #2 –
it could possibly be the screen is gummed up.

yes to pull the pan,
-unhook the bare minimum connections (vac & electrical) then the mechanical stuff like exhuast , power sterring  high & low lines ect ect, leave the AC connected but undo the clips along the bottom of the radiator to let these hoses swing up.
-use a wratchet strap around the bell housing and secure to the eyelets on each upper side of the fire wall.
-separate torque converter and slide it back
-undo the motor mounts from the engine block! leaving the mounts down below, this gains you a lot of room for pan hardware removal.
-remove upper intake
~~hope im not forgetting other stuff
-raise the motor ubout 8 inches
lay a oak 2x4 or a 4x4 across the fender well up top along the engine bay along where you see fender bolts (cut to fit 4x4)
-run wratchet straps around the headers and 4x4 on each side as a safety
-now drop the pan
- the oil pump is on the pass side front of the oil pump then here is a main bearing cap nut that needs removed as well.
-the pump will come out the front with the sump.
-when the pump is dropped, the dizzy shaft will fall out as well, position it back in place after pump repacement if you find the pump is bad.


if you sump is just gummed up , toss in an new oil pump anyway along with a pan gasket kit.

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Haystack;420844
your cold pressure is fine. I'm assuming the engine is just starting to get a bit worn out.



I would think the pressure should still rise with RPM's with a worn engine.
Mike

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #4 –
that depends,
if the sump screen is a little clogged , the oil pump could cavitate

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #5 –
Whatever you do don't think too long about this.  Pull the pan and replace the pump.  At 161,000 I would say the pump has done a great job and its probably tired.  By pulling the pan you can also pull a main cap and a rod cap and see how the bearings are doing.  Is is a pain in the ass? Yes but killing a motor will be a bigger one.  Whatever you do just do not buy a high volume pump as they will suck a stock pan dry.  Get a Melling replacement pump, a new distributor to oil pump shaft, and all the gaskets.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #6 –
Pull the engine it is TOAST!! You need a rebuild. Years back ford 5.0 engines had a sludge issue. But this also effected cold start up. Normally the pressure was low on cold start up as well. I just might be a clogged pickup but slim at best. What i do is increase the pickup to pan clearance by 3/8 of an inch over stock. This prevented the sludge issue from people that refuse to change oil. Also the type of oil and change intervals are a key in a clean engine bar none.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #7 –
tks to aall, will keep you informed on outcome

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #8 –
I would put my money on worn main bearings like mine had.... started at 45 lbs, and gradually went down to 2 lbs after about 5- 10 min of running
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #9 –
I still say run it till it pukes. at 161k  you got your money out of it.

I'm sitting at 230k miles and I've change my oil once since 191k when I put the 5 speed in. my car doesn't just sit around.I drive it a minimum of 20 miles every day and sometines 150-200 miles. earlier this year I made 4 separate 900 mile each way runs from Utah to 10 miles from the Canada border in mt.

is my engine tired? un doubtedly so. am I gonna pull the engine as long as I can get close to 30mpg free way and no engine noise? why bother?

I've probably had 5 of these cars over 200k. every single one of them got Junked due to transmission issues. now that I've got a t-5, I don't think I need to worry about it for quite some time. I was actually getting the car ready for a 1600 mile trip to Oregon Thursday, but my work decided to fly me instead. i'd personally rather drive, but I guess time constraints have over ruled that.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #10 –
So what you are saying Stacks you firmly believe changing ones oil is a waste of time!! WOW 40K between oil changes. Can yo post something that shows that your car needs an oil change every 40K. My service manual in my 88 Drop top does not recommend that. Just curious as why you would post such NONSENSE ALL THE TIME!!! You are smarter than that!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #11 –
Quote from: daminc;420948
I would put my money on worn main bearings like mine had.... started at 45 lbs, and gradually went down to 2 lbs after about 5- 10 min of running

That would be my GUESS. As a rod bearing would knock at some point over .0045 The mains really bleed off the pressure rather fast when there clearance goes over .005.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #12 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;421003
So what you are saying Stacks you firmly believe changing ones oil is a waste of time!! WOW 40K between oil changes. Can yo post something that shows that your car needs an oil change every 40K. My service manual in my 88 Drop top does not recommend that. Just curious as why you would post such NONSENSE ALL THE TIME!!! You are smarter than that!!

I didn't say changing oil was a waste of time.... I was trying to point out how durable these motors really are, especially when your talking an s.o. that is taken care of.

I have been trying to blow my motors up so I can throw the one I have on the stand full of h.o. goodies in. so far three cars with little to no oil changes have not blown up before the transmissions did.

but yes, I have gone about 45k since I touched my oil filter or drain plug. the.car eats a bit between a couple tanks of.gas. the last car I had I put about 75k on it with two oil changes. I pulled the valve covers off and it looked good as can be after. not saying I recommend it.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

1988 Cougar oil pan/oil pump

Reply #14 –
the reason oil turns black is becaues the pan isnt really completely isolated from the combustion event.
the residue ends up down the cylinder walls and into the pan, including any unburnt fuel.  that thins the oil as well.
i know you said your proving how reliable these motors are but, ive actually heard of people who really *dont* change thier oil, they just change the filter and add oil as needed.  rediculous!