88 sport rebuild , need advice

Topic: 88 sport rebuild , need advice (Read 27379 times) previous topic - next topic

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #60 – July 09, 2013, 03:36:24 PM

From what I see, this is an early build 97 engine. I could be totally wrong, and you won't know for sure til you pull the upper intake off and see an egr hole in the center or not. You'll have to MAKE a lower radiator hose (not really a big deal) and you'll have to fit the hose from the cooler to the water pump a little differently and with very good hose clamps. If it is an early 97, you'll have regular GT40 heads (not P heads) and you'll be able to use ordinary Mustang headers.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #61 – July 09, 2013, 03:37:55 PM

If they are P heads, BK unequal length shorty headers work great, just use plug wires with 90 degree plug boots. no worries. As far as the oil filter, remove all of the explorer stuff, and then the fitting that it all bolts to. Buy an adapter fitting (mine was about $12, and it'll screw right into the block, and then you can use the standard oil filter that 5.0 Foxes use. Easy stuff.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #62 – July 09, 2013, 03:39:44 PM

Use all of the accessories from the current 5.0 in the car, including the balancer, timing pointer, distributor. strip down to the long block, and put it back together as if you were doing a Fox motor.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #63 – July 09, 2013, 03:42:28 PM

I kept mine. It was easier than trying to get the tube out of the middle of the cooler plate. The FL820s filter on the Explorer is better than an FL1A anyway, and more accessible, too.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #64 – July 09, 2013, 04:06:07 PM

Here is a good write up on how to identify which heads this motor has:

http://www.fiveohinfo.com/performance/gt40-gt40p.html

I would bet on them being the GT40 heads which means you will have a much easier time with the header selection. As for the oil filter, you need to remover that horrid Explorer adapter. The adapter that is on the 302W in the Foxes will not be there as the Explorer adapter uses those threads to secure it to the block. This is evident by the bolt head in the center of the adapter. You can get the correct one so you can use an FL1A or similar oil filter at a Ford dealer or most parts stores or online like this:

http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-Oil-Filter-Adapter-for-Ford-Small-Block/2826046/10002/-1

So to clarify, the car already has the Explorer upper and lower? I do have one other question, why are you going to bore a 140K mile roller motor? Unless you really need to I would just do the cam swap, new timing chain, do a valve job, put new valve springs on the heads, install some nice roller rockers, get some shorty equal length headers (if you have the GT40 heads), check the rod and main bearings, and put a new stock oil pump in the bottom end. Button that bitch up and put it in the car. I have seen stock bottom end cars go over 200K with no issues what so ever. Save your money for the stroker machine work, why spend money twice if it is not needed.

Darren

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #65 – July 09, 2013, 04:41:41 PM

in my early posting here,
the objective is to get this explorer block in my garage so i can get it down to the machine shop for any prep work. My son will still be in another state during this time.
when he pulls up to the garage, we are going to build the exlorer block out with new short block parts.
we put the GT heads back on this block.
Transfer his upper / lower / TB over to this new block because for the simple reason these were christmas gifts to him.

i am trying to get ahead of the game so we have machine work done before he comes home,, we have a 5 day window.

Are you all saying there is no reason to bore 30 over? if so, we can skip that also. we figured if we cant stroke the up and down,, we can stroke it "out" for a little bit more.

will the explorer have roller rockers?
Are there any PTV issues forcasted if we shave the heads? get them down to like 60cc or so thus making them kinda cobra?
I have a set of BBK short headers if you all think those will work ok.?

i agree on saving cost so we build this motor to cure bottom end tapping, i guess he rolls out the car with the only change being he added GT heads.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #66 – July 09, 2013, 05:33:53 PM

No roller rockers come with that engine. Just the stamped versions like our cars had when new. If the block looks good, have the machine shop clean it up, install new rings and bearings, and call the block good. If you want to shave the heads a little, I doubt you will have any issues at all with the H.O cam as the explorer engine has valve reliefs in the pistons. Going from a 302 to a 306 isn't going to be a big deal, but it will add costs that aren't necessary if the engine looks good inside. Install new valve springs on the heads as the stockers aren't made for high revving fun. Too soft. The BBK headers should be just fine. they work with mine and I have the GT40-P heads.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #67 – July 09, 2013, 05:58:27 PM

Id rather use the stock exporer ones with .003 shims under them,,
anyone disagree?
his E7 springs have at least 200k on them,,

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #68 – July 09, 2013, 06:05:34 PM

so the debate here is kinda getting fluffy on my end...
Several have said to use the MKVii sd eec with an ho cam
others say to switch out to mass air , new eec and ho cam

what the hell, we can do everyting and save mass air till the very end to see "if" there is a significat difference.
this will be fun actually, see the two instances and how they pan out against each other.

i have a section of road we can actually use to do short 1100ft start/finish passes with a stop watch and see if SD allows the car to get from point a to point be quicker or slower than mass air.

make sense?

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #69 – July 09, 2013, 06:22:22 PM

Sounds good. I'm running SD with a MarkVII PCM, and 19's. I'm reasonably happy with it: My combo: 96 explorer with a 90 HO cam, changed the timing set (Explorer didn't have double roller when I opened it up), FRPP oil pump, BBK 1 5/8" unequal length, 87 HO EGR spacer, 96 Explorer oil cooler, 2.5" off road H-Pipe, 2" after-cat with dynomax super turbos (will upgrade to 2.5" when budget allows). 3G charging upgrade, AOD wide ratio mod with extra clutches, and a 7.5" 3.73:1 limited slip. I'll worry about tuning/MAF when I get enough money to get heads, injectors and a cam. Mine had 120k on it when I tore it open, I didn't even open the cylinders. Original bottom was tight and cylinder leak-down was perfect, so I left the crank in and the heads on.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #70 – July 09, 2013, 06:42:42 PM

Save Mass Air for later. As far as springs, I'm talking after market.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #71 – July 09, 2013, 06:57:31 PM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;418305

I kept mine. It was easier than trying to get the tube out of the middle of the cooler plate. The FL820s filter on the Explorer is better than an FL1A anyway, and more accessible, too.

i looked at my 20th,,
i see what you mean, leaving the oil filter set up like it is puts the filter in a much easier to get to location.,, granted a lower rad hose is to be mod'd.
I dono,, we'll have to see on this.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #72 – July 09, 2013, 07:57:08 PM

I would just leave the bottom end alone. Just check the top of the cylinders for any noticeable lip. Chances are you will still see cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls. The factory rings are low drag and wear very well.

Spend your money on some good aftermarket springs for the HO cam. I would use some Isky 8005's if they would install at the proper height. Great all around spring and will work up to about 0.600" of lift if memory serves me right. They have high seat and open pressures but that is what you want with a roller cam and some good roller rockers. See if someone here has some 1.7 ratio bolt down rockers or search the mustang sites.

With the $$$ you don't spend on machine work you can put it into the springs, roller rockers, new oil pump, etc. I really don't think shaving the heads is worth the performance gains you will see on a small inch motor. You have to spin small displacement motors up around 7 to 8 grand to make up for the lack of cubes.

Install the MAF now, you will have the time and $$$ to do it and the car will have better manners especially if you decide to install a larger cam later down the line. It sounds like your going to do it anyhow so why waste time and energy with even older technology.

Getting back to the time frame in which you have to do this project why wouldn't you just install the correct oil filter adapter and not have to mess with the modding the lower radiator hose?

Anyhow, you have all the information here you need so I will wish you luck and most of all have fun with this!

Darren

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #73 – July 09, 2013, 09:14:03 PM

well,
my son wants to go through the drill of the rebuild, if we dont bother the bottom end, he wont experince it.

i see your point(s) and i agree.

will post a thread here for some 1.7's

the only rollers i have are 1.6's with studed 289HP heads on my other 306.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #74 – July 09, 2013, 11:17:07 PM

I completely understand with him wanting to build a motor as its a good experience and it feels really good to be able to do that and drive it around. Just remember that if you guys decide to assemble the short block yourselves to read up on how to correctly set the thrust bearing clearance as this is one thing that alot of people do not either know how to do or simply do not do it.

Darren