88 sport rebuild , need advice

Topic: 88 sport rebuild , need advice (Read 27367 times) previous topic - next topic

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #225 – August 27, 2013, 12:43:01 PM

Toum can mount the O2 basically anywhere in the exhaust UP Stream of the cat. The closer to the manifold the better. But normally anywhere aroune 180* or90* from the top of the pipe. Never down or close to being pointing down. Sometimes if you tuck it far rnough near the manifold it does not matter. What you have to remember it takes in OUTSIDE AIR. And if it is exposed to road debree or water it is DUN,

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #226 – August 27, 2013, 01:51:11 PM

What Tom is trying to say is that while the o2 should be installed in the pipe perfectly perpendicular, it's wiring end should be at a slight (5 degrees or less) downward angle relative to the ground (or instead of getting water in them, you'll get oil in them). An o2 sensor samples from the air through it's wiring end, so it needs to be oriented such that any moisture can escape via gravity, yet not so much that it is vulnerable to water and crud from the road. And like the man said, keep it up as high in the system as possible so as to keep it safe from the road and so on.

@thunderjet302, that's the H-Pipe I'm running now. Fits real nice, even around an AOD.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #227 – August 27, 2013, 03:28:00 PM

ok, got it,,
found bungs today
also found a thread chaser to tap threads into my existing exhaust.
my pipe is thick wall stuff, i may try the thread chaser, install the 02's then put the pungs in the trunk for my son later if they give him an issue.

havent had a chance to do compression readings since my tester started failing,,, bought a new one today so i can dospoogeent this part.....which reminds me,,, i have an old topic i have to bring back up and that will appear on another thread.

i promise it will be very Intriguing

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #228 – August 27, 2013, 10:39:57 PM

well, almost made it out of the bay and down the road but ............. a transmission line fitting at the transmission started to puke.

probably due to use bumping or moving them,, fickle s.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #229 – August 27, 2013, 10:47:34 PM

Buy new fittings. I had the same problem, and I fought with it for days until I just gave up and bought 2 new fittings for the side of the trans. Been dry now for months.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #230 – August 27, 2013, 10:57:56 PM

you can get them anywhere if you can find the dorman.part number.

I like my fix better though. t-5.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #231 – August 28, 2013, 09:54:31 AM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;420714

Buy new fittings. I had the same problem, and I fought with it for days until I just gave up and bought 2 new fittings for the side of the trans. Been dry now for months.

i purchased a half dozen a couple years ago but the "look" different than the originals.
gonna find out today if they work.

bought them from the dealer, 70 some dollars for a half dozen if i recall correctly.

i think the dealer gave me an equal type part....

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #232 – August 29, 2013, 12:31:59 AM

got some O2 sensor bungs, my son can have them welded later, his exhaust is very thick so i cut threads for the install. these are very easy to get to in the future.

a couple shots of the car, took it out today for the first time on a serious run.
The car tends to like its idle a little high for my taste,, 900rpm there abouts but its all good.
will pull codes tomorrow and get compression readings now that it has about 100 miles on the build.

we have a noise in the bell housing i gotta nail down,, after the car warms up, it sounds like the flywheel is barely cherping up against the spacer,, not sure whats up with that, no noise when motor is cold.

i will also send mason down the road with all his smog garbage, im thinking VA will want that on his car if he decides to become a resident there.

the wiring is still a mess, that can be taken care of now that its proof tested.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #233 – August 29, 2013, 09:37:36 AM

next up,,
mass air swap in with all my parts i have gathered to do this,, except i still need the mass air wire connector

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #234 – August 29, 2013, 12:14:56 PM

pulled my codes just now with KOEO

22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP
>>>>>>>since my EEC is an HO MKVII, do in need a MKVII MAP?

64 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal low or grounded - IAT VAT
>>>>>>>>not sure what to think of this...? engine is cold now so perhaps its just a false reading

53 Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS
63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS
>>both of these codes are probably as a result of running the engine with the black wire on the TPS broken without my knowledge.
this code should go away soon i would think... last reading i took day before yesterday was .885 vdc on the green wire.
I need to check from the green to the black wire though,, i didnt do that originally.

31 EVP - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was out of range - EVP
>>>>yesterday for the first time i see the EGR moving,, need to check this and see whats up with resepct to the variable resistor or a vack leak to the diaphram...

any thoughts?

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #235 – August 29, 2013, 03:54:14 PM

22- No you shouldn't need a Mark VII MAP sensor. I had a Mark VII computer on my car and now a Mustang A9P, both of which are using the stock MAP/BARO sensor that cam on my Thunderbird without issue (no code thrown). Is they vacuum line to the MAP hooked up correctly? Are the wire connections good?

64- Did you do the KOEO test with the engine cold? If so ignore this. If it comes up again on a KOEO with the engine hot than you may have an issue. The IAT sensor is in the lower intake correct?

53,63- As long as the wires are fine and hooked up this shouldn't be an issue. Try resetting the computer (i.e. disconnect the battery for 15 minutes) and see if it goes away. If not replace the TPS.

31- Check the EGR and its position sensor. Either one could be the problem.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #236 – August 29, 2013, 05:35:27 PM

vac line to map is good, cant confirm all wiring is perfect to the map but the connector was not damaged nor the wiring entering it.

yes did test with cold engine

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #237 – August 29, 2013, 05:44:45 PM

remember my saying when the engine was on the stand,, that....

with a pair of rockers not installed, i can put a hose into a spark plug hole and blow air in,, and hear it coming out .........
some came out around the rings,
some sounded like it was coming out through the intake
some sounded like it was coming out through the exhaust

so,,
today was the first opportunity i had to do a compression test now that the build has a few miles on it.
i took readings on the motor cold. and with some wd40 sprayed up in the cylinders each.
i retested my low cylinder shown below with a very very hot motor and the results actually went down
thoughts?
i have a few but there are forums designed for that kind of language.

My son just took it back to VA minutes ago, he is happy as a 20yr old could be now he has his birdie back. I keep telling him im overall happy but i have to wonder if there is power missing due to some other issues.
Im thinking valves are not closing all the way because the seat work isnt mating up to the valves themselves just right.
maybe eventually the heads and valves will mate together and seat???? sound possible.
I told my son to take it somewhere and have a leak down test performed along with compression test after a few more hundred miles.
Either that or when he comes home again, we can retorque the head bolts *completely* and see if that helps.
i checked the lower bolts on the outside of the head on either side of cyl 5 and they were correctly torqued.
our orginal torque exceeded the book by an additional 5lbs. i was compensating for any yield the used bolts may have experienced.
perhaps i should have used new head bolts... dono yet.

cylinder / compression
1= 150
2=160
3=160
4=150
5=130 >> retest when hot = 118
6=150
7=150
8=150

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #238 – August 29, 2013, 06:08:23 PM

my machinist just told me he did cut both the intake and exhaust seats ,, said something about a "wider" 45deg angle.
he mentioned that doing this allows more head to valve contact for better heat disipation and overall longer life span.
i have to speak with him again about this to understand more.

however,,
he did say at this time he has no clue as to what would cause a cold compression reading to go down when taken again after the motor is hot.
he said that its possible that one lifter may not be functioning correctly associated to cylinder 5... sounds reasonable.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #239 – August 29, 2013, 08:14:17 PM

Clearly @130 something is wrong! But how many times did you crank the engine to do the test?? Normally a compression test is useless as a LEAK DOWN is what should be dun. As far as a wider seat that means nothing as many cars use a combination 44-45* valve cut. So without a leak down that cylinder can not be determined to have an issue as with a valve or ring issue. You need leak down numbers not compression numbers.

Normally i use 30* valve jobs years ago as that flows better than 45* at the lower RPM BAND. But with 3 angle valve jobs and 5 angle valve jobs 30* cuts are not normally used. Also having a wider seat on the intake is MOOT. The Exhaust needs a wider seat to dissipate the heat of the exhaust valve to the head for cooling the hot exhaust valve. This is a simple explanation. Valve cutting is a science in it's entirety. Also did the machinist vacuum test the valve JOB???

Note to confirm a tight valve on position 5 loosen the rocker and then take a compression reading. If it corrects the issue the valve is to TIGHT!!