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Topic: At The End of My Rope ... Almost (Read 3916 times) previous topic - next topic

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #15
Pull the alternator and regulator and take them to a parts store and have them test them (call first and see if they can do it) if you do not feel comfortable with what Tom is suggesting.  I will say what Tom is suggesting to do is the best way to do it and you don't have to make the trip.  If the alternator does not work properly find a rebuild shop that is local and most likely they can rebuild it cheaper than a reman unit from the parts store.

Here is the bible of 3G conversions (at least I think it is):

http://home.comcast.net/~smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #16
If I'd just purchased a new/rebuilt alt & regulator, converting to a different type would be last on my list... Yes I've converted and have a 3G on mine, but only because I'm going to go to a two speed Taurus electric fan...


At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #18
"...going to go to a two speed Taurus electric fan..."


Interesting idea !

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #19
If you don't fix the wiring issue the conversion alt isn't going to charge either... Of course you can run new wiring but unless it's fused there will always be a fire hazard...

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #20
Typically when installing a 3G alternator you install a 125A wafer fuse which is just under what 4 ga wire can carry over this short distance.  If the wire get pinched or the load get too high for some reason it will pop the wafer fuse and reduce the chances of a fire.

I still say some basic trouble shooting is the OP's best bet to figure out what is going on as it may be a $5 fix.  My suggestion would be if you are having an issue with the charging wires from the back of the alternator to the starter relay get some good 8 ga wire to replace it and a fuse holder with an 80A fuse.  I have done this on a couple of cars with the stock alternator and it actually improved voltages in the car.  The factory charging wires off the alternator are marginal at best IMO.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #21
Ok GET a test light and hook it to GROUND hit the battery heavy lead on the ALT and see if it lites. If it does then try and full field the alt or bring it to a test facility. If it is bad you are golden and found the trouble. If you are going for more electrical loads better off converting now and save you the aggravation later. Personally i have converted several without disturbing the stock charge wire. But a bigger wire is always better. Also those old fashioned mechanical electric regulators are GARBAGE. They are made like  and work like shiznit!!! Unless you get an electronic one from a reputable supplier. But then you are limited to low output alternators. Best bet is what i posted and convert it. cheaper and much better in the long run. Good luck.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #22
Quote from: TOM Renzo;412728
Also those old fashioned mechanical electric regulators are GARBAGE. They are made like  and work like shiznit!!! Unless you get an electronic one from a reputable supplier. .

C'omon now tell us what you think but just remember this, it's the 21st century and electro-mechanical regulators went out of favor in the late 70s... Replaced by solid state look alikes...

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #23
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;412719
If you don't fix the wiring issue the conversion alt isn't going to charge either... Of course you can run new wiring but unless it's fused there will always be a fire hazard...


Good Point !!

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #24
Quote from: Aerocoupe;412725
The factory charging wires off the alternator are marginal at best IMO.

Darren

True !!

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #25
Thanks !

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #26
... too funnie. .. .

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #27
Here is a wiring diagram for your charging system.
Have you checked any voltages?

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #28
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;412731
C'omon now tell us what you think but just remember this, it's the 21st century and electro-mechanical regulators went out of favor in the late 70s... Replaced by solid state look alikes...


A 100 point car that needed everything to be original.  The electronic replacement ones work but it will cost you points in a car show. So stay with an external regulator and have a low output alt and all is good in the world. Once again i have converted many an alt without doing a thing to the factory original battery feed wire. But it is always better to have more copper.

If you don't fix the wiring issue the conversion alt isn't going to charge either..

I was just wondering how you know it is a wiring issue when he did no trouble shooting?????????????????

He needs basick trouble shooting to fix this issue. I think the ALT IS SHOT. Just guessing.


Basic full fielding and a 2 second test with a test light will set him in the right direction.

Just for the record the car has a factory electric fan!!! But the original alt is MARGINAL AT BEST!!!

I would also convert to a serpentine belt but that is another story!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

At The End of My Rope ... Almost

Reply #29
So, I don't see it mentioned. Does the battery light in the instrument cluster work?

If the bulb is burnt or missing, the alternator will not charge the battery in stock configuration.

Does it light up when you go to start the car?  If not, start there.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon