What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #60 – April 08, 2013, 01:41:04 AM Other than missing by a tooth on the distributor, everything seems to run fine. Missed a hose clamp, but only heard noise escaping from there when I shut the engine off. Something is rattling down below, so I will probably just take it some place to a) fix the front exhaust at minimum and b) install the correct studs back into one of the headers as they pulled out. It has a slight diesel sound so I'll get that addressed.Other than that it pretty much idles the same...not smooth, but every few seconds a slight stumble (it has been this way on the p heads and way back whenever with 19lb injectors and stock mustang tb/maf, so who knows what it is - I really don't care at this point).I'll have to get the hood back on (it's easier with two people - I've only done it solo once) and take it for a test drive. So far nothing bad in oil or coolant on quick checks. Fuel pressure was fine before bolting the intake on. When I get my tubular intake finished, I will re-torque the lower intake and do anything else I need before hopefully keeping the motor together for the foreseeable future. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #61 – April 08, 2013, 01:43:51 AM Oh, when I primed the oiling system, there was one rocker that was just gushing oil while the others were only seeping like normal. Any idea what this would mean? Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #62 – April 08, 2013, 01:50:45 AM The over-achiever that just flows oil: Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #63 – April 08, 2013, 10:47:27 AM Can you move the push rod to another location and see if it follows the push rod?Darren Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #64 – April 08, 2013, 04:13:55 PM So anyone think the bracket to intake braces are needed? Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #65 – April 10, 2013, 12:24:23 PM Well anyway, something is rattling under the car, but otherwise, the motor cranks right up and seems to run pretty good. I'll get it on the street when my new tags come in the mail. I figure I'll drive it to a shop to fix the terrible exhaust (or rather, midpipe) that's on there and it'll also fix whatever is loose.It sure has a different exhaust tone. The valvetrain is much quieter now, getting away from the 1.7 pedestal mount Crane rocker arms. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #66 – April 12, 2013, 11:53:19 PM I am sticking with the stock alternator bracket. I just don't like how you have to loosen waterpump/timing cover bolts to remove/install an alternator. While the March units look nice and everything, it'd be a huge pain to swap an alternator or belt outside of a garage.Anyway, I have a chirping noise at idle, but it goes away with just a little gas. I will have to check to see if I have any type of vacuum leak anywhere (I reuse upper to lower gaskets), but beyond that I'll start looking at a rocker arm sliding against valve cover or pushrod. I removed the belt and it remains. It is pretty quiet, but a motor shouldn't be making that noise. Since it only happens at idle, it makes me initially think it's vacuum related. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #67 – April 13, 2013, 12:43:37 AM Uh oh! The intake leak is back! Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #68 – April 13, 2013, 12:59:35 AM It's not an obvious whistle, so I don't know. It's a faint chirp on every rotation. Whatever it is might "clearance itself", but I'll spray around and then pull the valve covers tomorrow to check for any contact spots.The higher vacuum could easily cause this noise in many areas.Speaking of vacuum - do you have a gauge? I don't remember if mine's up in Seattle, or somewhere in my garage. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #69 – April 13, 2013, 01:18:01 AM It sounds like it's coming from cylinder 3/4 in the valve cover. Very high pitched. Dumping water to fill the area on top of the lower intake didn't change anything, so it isn't vacuum. Luckily that is the easy valve cover to pull. At this point I'm thinking valve cover contact or excessive guide plate contact. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #70 – April 13, 2013, 10:54:21 AM I used ARP intake bolts when I swapped the Edelbrock heads onto my Thunderbird. I ended up reusing those two bolts for the brackets that attach to the alternator and A/C compresor as there wern't any in the ARP kit. You mentioned a change in exhaust tone with the new heads. I noticed the same thing when I went from the GT40Ps to the Edelbrock Performers. The exhaust got slightly louder and a little more mellow sounding at idle. It almost sounds to me like the exhaust is less restricted. It might have something to do with the larger exhaust valves (1.60" on the Edelbrocks, 1.45" on the GT40Ps). Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #71 – April 13, 2013, 08:25:40 PM I think the chirping is gone. I'll need to reinstall the valve cover and do further testing since after about a minute the oil starts to overflow, but I can't hear it anymore. With the valve cover off, it sounded like both cylinders 3 and 4 were making the noise and I believe the push rods looked like they had some fresh wear (they were used push rods, so they had some black finish already worn). Adjusted the guideplate, and sounds fixed. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #72 – April 13, 2013, 10:07:21 PM Yep, chirps are fixed. The valvetrain in this thing now is probably half as loud as the gt40ps with the Crane Energizer rocker arms. Now I just need to find what's rattling under the car. I can't pinpoint it yet as the exhaust gets too hot to continue probing.About those braces - I'm really thinking I should go back and install them. Mustangs use steel brackets so it's possible we need the brace to help stabilize the aluminum brackets. I will probably install the stock front two studs, do another oil drain and fill with temp oil, run for a few minutes and drain again. I don't trust coolant to not get into the oil if I loosen any bolts. Hell, the one I had to remove for the March alternator bracket left me uneasy as the end of the bolt goes straight into oil. The last thing I want is coolant helping me wear some bearings. Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #73 – April 13, 2013, 11:57:07 PM Arggghhh I'm late to the completion celebration, congrats on mostly getting it sorted out...Did the over oiling condition on that one rocker correct it's self??? Usually that indicates a issue inside the lifter, but can be temporary...Quote from: Seek;412892So anyone think the bracket to intake braces are needed?I removed mine and have had no issue... Quote Selected
What was wrong with this cylinder? (pics) Reply #74 – April 14, 2013, 12:29:54 AM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;413248Arggghhh I'm late to the completion celebration, congrats on mostly getting it sorted out...Did the over oiling condition on that one rocker correct it's self??? Usually that indicates a issue inside the lifter, but can be temporary...I removed mine and have had no issue... The flow was even when I had the valve cover off. It would likely spill over the edge near immediately if that one was still gushing like it was. I went back to my Comp Cams lifters that I had previously used for only a couple thousand miles years ago. I went back to stock lifters, and did preload changes, in an attempt to quiet down the previous valve train. Since these other ones were sitting for years, who knows what could have found its way inside the lifter, although they were bagged and boxed on the shelf. Changed the oil again with a few droplets of water coming out on belt loosen. I will change the oil once more time after I actually drive the car for a few miles. I figure two drains should get most of the crud out from when the head was pulled. I'm not expecting to see ANY drops of water on the next drain. Better to be safe and waste $30 in oil. I haven't touched the filter yet.Know what's great? Autozone has oil/filter sales but you can't get the sale price for just the oil. The filter must be on the purchase. This is dumb since I only use FL1A filters, with a box sitting in my garage. They'd rather lose more money. I was tempted to just set the filter down and walk out with the oil, but I figure why not - I'm sure someone I come across will want a fram filter for free. Quote Selected
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