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Topic: Drain plug (Read 3105 times) previous topic - next topic

Drain plug

Reply #30
Jay we use those fasteners from time to time. BUT!!! They are not designed for pans as they can leak i was told?? With that everyone that has an older ford suffers from a stripped drain plug. This is common and i have fixed several in my career. Like i explained i used to replace the pan and found out that the OIL CHANGE MONKEYS would just strip them out again. So i came up with the pipe reducer. Also i use a steel adapter and a brass plug. Been very good from what i can tell you guys. But it is BUTT ASS UGLY. So next time i am going to do it differently.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Drain plug

Reply #31
i disagree because that perception means that things designed for an application never are going to work for another application, not disagreeing with you but with what your hearing.  I am sure you agree with that because you creatively break this golden rule often enough and send working systems out the door pretty much every week.
its designed for sheet metal which the pan is made of, a leather gasket or o ring could be added prior to installing. I am just speculating and if you have not used it yet for this application, it may be worth a try,, its gotta be a "snug" fit prior to expaning the anchor.  I was thinking of adding some sort of hi-temp sealant on the PemFlex anchor fitting as well.
who knows........ you may be right and it will leak,, maybe not but........  my point is not about that. 
My point was finding a product that "provides or replaces a threaded hole machined into sheet metal" and this product does that.

I can see what your saying though, i would do my best to take precautions.
I'll shop for a min order qty and try one out on my son's car later on, hopefuly i remember to update you on how it worked out.

Drain plug

Reply #32
Tom's repair looks fine to me... a little bit of paint and it would look factory, and only the fussiest of people would even notice, much less care. Tell the ones that WOULD care what would be involved in a different type of repair (higher costs, possible downtime for the vehicle while waiting for unattainable parts, etc) for minimal if any benefit and they'd likely come around to your way of thinking. Might matter on a concours-type restoration, but on anything that's actually driven it's fine. Stronger repair than the original, far less likely to leak. The only question I'd have is what was used for the drain plug. If it's a normal pipe plug it might pose problems as they have to be sealed with teflon tape or something similar. If a bolt with a plastic or copper washer , or one of those GM style plugs with the rubber o-ring/gasket thing can be used it'd be perfect...
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Drain plug

Reply #33
Exactly thunder. Next time i am going to use a pipe reducer lets say 1/2 / 1/8 and drill and tap the small hole for a GM O RING plug. Seems like we are on the same page. You are correct that the pipe plug needs some sealer. The guys are bugging me about that aspect of the repair. Also here is another place i use them. The GM 10.5" floating axle final drives burn out outer axle bearings. They have a nasty habit of blocking the fluid from getting to the outer bearing set. SOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! I drill a hole in the cover and move the fill mark UP app 1" This allows the oil to seep out to the bearings. You can also use this for a drain plug or d fill plug repair on a final drive that has a stripped fill plug on a final drive axle. Some guys do not clean out the fill plug in the side of the rear and strip the square end of the plug and cant get it out. Just another scenario.  Thanks


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I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!