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Topic: O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation... (Read 3647 times) previous topic - next topic

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #15 –
This is how i modify the IAC for proper operation. First break it down then do some fancy grinding on the pins . This will allow the IAC to only allow a certain amount of bypassed air to enter the engine. And in turn will not allow the engine to exceed the cold RPM you set it at. Just another TIP!!

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #16 –
This happens at any temperature.

Tom elaborate on that a bit more. Also about the grinding.

As far the TFI, no, I bought one, but didn't replace it yet since the coil APPEARED to have fixed the issue.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #17 –
Swap the TFI first, since you have one there, and it's about a 3 minute job, IF you have the teeny little socket. Oreilly carries them i do believe.

If it ain't the TFI, I can send you my Mustang's EEC (89, mass air, AOD car) but, I will need it back pretty soon since I will need it for the other Mustang, but that's a whole other project for a little later on..
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #18 –
Thanks Beau. I may take you up on that.

yeah, I have the hand held socket for it. I also noticed something, my wires to the coil in the plug sem loose...I'm swapping the plug tomorrow as well.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #19 –
I had a similar issue a few years back. Except mine wouldn't run good. Turning the the key on and off and it would clear up. I changed the  Ignition switch and wired in the speed sensor to the ecu. You have an 88 I don't think you have to do the latter part. One of them cured my problem.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #20 –
I think Vinny has a new switch i THINK??? But if it is not slaved out that is a given. Ignition switch slaving is a MUST!!! He can check it out by just feeling it and see if it is HOT!!! Or making some funky smells.  WHEEE!!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #21 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;409136
Thanks Beau. I may take you up on that.

yeah, I have the hand held socket for it. I also noticed something, my wires to the coil in the plug sem loose...I'm swapping the plug tomorrow as well.

No loose wires Vinny that can be an issue !!!!
 

TIP !!!!!!!!!

Over the years i have been changing the TFI modules and substituting ALLEN HEAD SCREWS for the stock ones. A quick drive to the hardware store and  thirty five cents does it nicely !!!  Also a 1/4 drive deep Snap On socket does the trick nicely. Or just buy the proper tool. Just some options!!!


When i substitute the screws i put a DAB of red paint on the module to let me know they are ALLEN HEADS!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #22 –
I'll try that as well. I have an extra ignition switch in the tool box drawer.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #23 –
I have the proper TFI removal tool. That's not an issue as far as swapping it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #24 –
Make sure you use good dielectric grease on the new TFI. Some guys say heat sink compound, some say the grease...I say grease as well.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #25 –
My new Ford TFI came with it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #26 –
Dont use dialectic grease use heat transfer grease only!!!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #27 –
I had planned on using the grease that Ford included with the TFI.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #28 –
Since you have the TFI to put in, swap it and make sure that's all okay. Get a "canned air" can from Staples or wherever, for dusting out a computer, and blow that on the TFI when the issue comes up (don't hold the can upside down so that the propellant comes out icy cold and makes that neat-looking cryogenic mist in the air...don't freeze-shock your TFI when it's red hot!). See if cooling it down helps. My guess is not. Especially if this is a repeatable "fix" where shutting down and restarting takes care of it. It's an open-loop/closed-loop issue, I would argue. I *believe* the ECM reverts to open-loop mode for a given period of time, whether that's 10 seconds, 20 seconds, 2 minutes. It certainly starts out in open-loop when the car is started dead cold. Which would suggest an oxygen sensor issue, whether it is the sensor(s) themselves or connections. Check the O2 harness ground as well as each sensor's own grounds. This is where it would help to know someone with a scan tool that can read the parameters in real time, to see if the O2's are flip-flopping 1-0-1-0....like they should.

I need to re-read up on the EEC-IV strategy because I don't remember, but I there is a method to the madness and the reason you see that temporary improvement is the same reason my Crown Vic would do the same thing on a hot summer day back two years ago when I first installed the ill-purchased aftermarket-cammed bad rod bearing motor it currently has. I think getting a 160 degree thermostat and massive 3-core radiator from RockAuto helped a lot. It idles with only 16" of vacuum because of that cam and thus runs pig rich. Last summer it was okay however, I think it runs just cool enough that the A/F ratio it has to deal with doesn't push it over the edge and cause it to start stumbling. It would frequently backfire lightly through the intake when opening the throttle quickly as well.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

O.K.....new issue...or may a continuation...

Reply #29 –
Mine has a few instances of backfiring through the throttle. Timing was checked over and over, and it's fine.

The only sensor I haven't changed is the ACT sensor.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..