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Topic: Still having an issue...UPDATE... (Read 9038 times) previous topic - next topic

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #105
I wonder if the TFI harness from an SN95 could be used? Pull the TFI, heatsink, mount, and wiring all the way to the eec and patch it in...?

I NEED to go dig up my 3.8 TFI stuff that was on my white car and get to looking at it.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #106
yeah the 3.8L engines are sacraficial,,
I could "make" the color coded wires using the base color and adding a stripe.

Its a simple as extending all wires by solder joints / heat shrink up to the new location.

In my minds eye, the best place i could see to mount a TFI would be "inside" the air filter box where the TFI would always get a constant good breeze.


Im open to suggestions but i would really rather stay away from the upper part of the radiator cross memeber.
I like were they are placed on the forward part of the car but still believe they are subject to corrosion from water.

im thinking of an area that allows you to wash off your engine and not soak this thing down.

someone start a new thread on this.........after my debockle with the auto lamp module, i may start one and we can all brain storm with a goal set to be building the first couple mid feb.
We should think about things from a customer level like...
~can not get wet
~can not get hot from radiant devices like headers
~can not get wet from a radiator hose blowing
~can not get saturated with salt from roads
~can not get destroyed by general tune up's
~is located in a convienient location for ease of replacement
**improves the orginal design flaws that cause them to break down.

In my minds eye again,, now im starting to see this being located inside the car and perhaps this is the best controled location to meet all the above.

If someone can verify one thing before we get to the nuts and bolts......
Confirm that when you remove the wire loom cover, the TFI connector with wiring will reach inside the car and if so, we dont need to splice at all...which is the optimal situation.
Im starting to think that mounting to the left side of the car on the body where the Ebrake pedal is an option.

I wont charge anything, and if you want it to be mounted like newer model cars up front, you can just send the connector / wire with your desired heat sync and i can get the bulk of the design so that you bolt in and plug up.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #107
any heat sync will work, or slotted aluminum type chunk of metal from something.  we have them all around us and dont pay attention.
Im starting to question the metal surface on the TFI itself in that i am not "totally" convinced that all 100% of the metal surface "can" touch the metal its "suppose" to be attached to in order to wick the heat off.

to be honest, i have not been put in the situation where i could monitor the heat these produce since they are always pretty much hot from being over the oven (engine) all the time anyway.

anyone know this answer?

i think babbling on sometimes helps me or other people finally arrive at the right question so i think it is "why do the TFI's require heat sync mating?" in the first place.
one clue that may answer this is that on newer designes a heat sync was added to the TFI in the remote mounted enviroment so this says the TFI "produces" heat.  I guess thats the answer so thinking along those terms and all you computer guru's out there , thinking processors and mother boards ect can probably come up with really neat ideas and keep this thing really cool.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #108
Quote from: daminc;406735
any plugs usable here vinnie?
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/?p=10

Yep, I saw it. $12.00. I'll check the boneyard first then if I need to, I'll buy it from them.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #109
I'd move mineI'd think for me, on the core support, or the firewall to the passenger side of the BAP sensor.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #110
yeah, but think like this...........

if you can relocate it and "not" have to splice wires then that is the best way to go. 

I dont know if the TFI harness comes along the driver side of the harness then goes across the fire wall to the pass side or not,, if it does then your idea works well with no splicing.

i hope we all do something that makes it work better and does the job.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #111
check the fuel pressure ...mmm
You should check that fuel filter is not blocked or bad fuel pump

Greetings :D

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #112
It comes from the main harness, and down the driver side of the intake to the front of the engine.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #113
I have had the same TFI for over ten years. Just used some super heat sink goo from Radio Shack and no problems. I'll post the name and part number up when I get home later today.

I agree that the remote TFI mod is the best solution though.

I have ran the MSD coils for years and not had any issues.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #114
TFI heat is not the only reason it fails!! Their are other issues as well,
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #115
Quote from: vinnietbird;406800
It comes from the main harness, and down the driver side of the intake to the front of the engine.
yes, we know that but which bung does it go to ,,the one on the firewall drivers side or the one on the firewall pass side?

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #116
Quote from: TOM Renzo;406849
TFI heat is not the only reason it fails!! Their are other issues as well,

what else is there

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #117
The TUNE!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #118
Finally got back to the house, flying in inclement weather still sucks.  Anyhow, the stuff I got at Radio Shack is called "Arctic Silver 5" and here is the listing:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2216879

Expensive but so far it has worked really well.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #119
Quote from: jcassity;406877
yes, we know that but which bung does it go to ,,the one on the firewall drivers side or the one on the firewall pass side?

Passenger side. My new Motorcraft TFI should be here this week. I'll install it and see if there's any difference.

KNOCK ON WOOD....with the new coil, it's been doing pretty good. On the next day I get to spend with the Sport, I'm going to instal the new push rods, TFI, plug wires, and try to set the timing from 14 down to 12. I set it at 12 before the coil, because anything lower wasn't working. Now that the coil seems to have helped the old girl, I'm backing it off to 12 degrees and see what happens.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..