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Topic: AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core (Read 9071 times) previous topic - next topic

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #15
here are a couple shots of the cover.
my youngest boy punching through the second foam layer thats 1/2'' thick that will reside on the exterior but under the metal cover we made.

let me know what you all think

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #16
Quote from: thunderjet302;404332
I should have been clearer :hick:. What I meant was any structural issues with the heater box, since you cut a big hole in the box it might be hard to keep air in the box and out of the engine. It seems like you may have solved that problem with the gasket seal and the foam though.

no, seriously, ive often wondered how a car can get away with so many big ass holes everywhere considered the structure.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #17
this looks stupid,, that bright aluminum silver thing on the fire wall.
I may spray flat black on it, that might work better for the "looks part"

i want it to draw some attention so someone says "hey, whats that".
the way it is now, it screams "HEY Look here"

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #18
Just me, but I think cutting a piece out of another car looks less "eye catching".  Just like what Tom posted up.
Mike

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #19
painted it black,, looks much better,
car runs and puts out nice heat again minus the leak.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #20
one last update, here is the cooling chamber penetration i mentioned earlier that needs minor seal off prior to adding a retrofit sound deadening or foam forming seal.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #21
I like your solution. The cover plate is a good idea, and looks fine now that it's black.

Nice one!

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #22
i try, the black plate becomes nothing but a blurr as it blends in the background with the silver intake & throttle body in front.
looking back on it, im happy i did it this way for the following reason:
~i decided that the time it would take me to do my first heater core the right way per the shop manual would have take me probably a whole weekend off and on becaue knowing my luck, something would break, fail to work after assembly or "stuff" would just happen.

 i thought long and hard about going into the fire wall, examined the *body and chassis shop manuals to become familiar with & confirm what layers of stuff were in the way , then visualized the time it may take to get to the core.  I concluded i should be able to get to the core in an  hour.  It took a little more like 2 hours to get to the core because i wanted to be careful and selective in the air box cutting,, the metal and sound deadening was easy with a nice thin cuttting disc and side grinder.  Inside of three hours, core out and new in. 

Disadvantage to this........ you have to remove the upper intake and the FPR (or pass fuel rail) to get to the core next time.  Far less "risk" & "work" work imho.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #23
I'm cutting that hole if mine goes out again.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #24
Quote from: jcassity;404285
here are the remaining pics for the moment, knocked off to go eat.


This. Id WAY RATHER do this!!!!!
1986 Ford Thunderchicken, 5.0 AOD w/ Shift kit,  354,XXX miles. 1-Family owned. Original engine+trans.
8.8 Disc Rear w/ 3.73 Posi. CHE Control Arms. '04 Cobra brakes all around. 2000 Cobra R wheels. Tubular front LCA's. MM Steering Shaft. Unlocked Speedo, Lowering springs, Eibach sway bars front and rear. Ram air intake.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #25
Just wondering Vinnie did you not see my post on this way back. I use a cut piece of the fire wall from a JUNKYARD CAR. Thank you
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #26
Yeah, Tom. I saw that. That would be the direction I would go as well.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #27
Cotta love you VINNY. Thanks
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #28
This is a really good idea, despite what some might think.

A cut out piece of firewall (like Tom used) would be a good solution to make a clean good looking cover. The only thing I can think of, is how hard its now getting to find donor cars anymore sitting in junkyards (especially me having a 1980 T-bird) and secondly... all the yards I go to won't allow power tools to make easier work at getting that section removed cut off the firewall.

AND NOW!!!! It's a 1hour or less heater core

Reply #29
I just replaced a heater core today on another 80's Ford....took me 10 minutes.
Current: 1986 Thunderbird, 105k 3.8/C5, 2 tone  Midnight Wine/Medium Taupe, wing windows, wire wheel covers.


Former: 1985 Cougar GS 115k Oxford White/Regatta Blue, 5.0, full console, 14" 8 hole aluminum T-Bird rims, Edelbrock valve covers.