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Topic: Customers can be CRUEL!!! (Read 2396 times) previous topic - next topic

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #15
Yes 42 it is the BIG GOLD RING. And heavy as hell and very thick. The dam thing is almost impossible to remove. I have dozens of snap ring pliers. None of them are deep enough and if they are they dont work because when expanded they hit the sides of the HUB. I have no idea what to buy as all my tool guys do not know what i am talking about. And they claim the dealers do not us any of their tools to remove this ring. Like i said their must be a special tool but OTC does not make it. I am at a loss to figure out what to do to handle this ring. Other than the way i do it now. Very chincy but it works. I cut the old ring in the center it splits and i remove it as 2 pieces. That is easy. I then replace the axle joints and machine a taper on the end of the axle stub that goes through the hub. Then i use 2 small Philip screw drivers in the 2 reliefs that run length wise to the hub. I put the ring inside the screw drivers and work the ring on to the axle stub. Then i push the snap ring on the hub and remove the screw drivers. Then i tap the ring on withn a big socket to the axle snap ring relief back by the bearing inner race. It snaps in nicely but a pain in the A$$ to accomplish. Their has to be a better way or a special tool. Thanks
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #16
there is no special tool, i know that much. i'll look through my tool box and see what pliars i have. i'm pretty sure i just had a big pair of snap on ones. ill let you know.

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #17
Thanks!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #18
When I used to do that work, I used a long straight pick to get the end of the snap ring out of its groove, then a long 90 pick to coax the rest out.  Same thing I do with FS10 compressor shaft seal snap rings, just shorter picks.

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #19
The customer in the first post isn't cruel...just an idiot asshole.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #20
Thanks Chuck. You are correct. But as a business i have to put up with this.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #21
Here is the snap ring i removed with a dremmel. This is one hefty piece that cant be removed with a PICK



Just look at the thickness of this ring. This ring is a MOTHER FUC%^&% To get off and on. Thanks!! I think i am going to make a tool like a spring pliers  to remove them???

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!


Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #23
FOE i am willing to bet that ring cant be removed with a pick. First their is no room. And second that ring is massive. And strong as hell. And even if you could use a pick how would you install it again???? Just saying. As a Ford Tech what does your shop use to remove them???? Thanks!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #24
Just so that I can make sure we're on the same page, send another pic with something else in it along with the remains of the snap ring so I can get a size reference. And I don't know which snap ring we're talking about. I had made an assumption, but it seems like were talking about different things.

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #25
i know, we've been bouncing between trucks

f250, snap ring that holds the axle onto the hub i believe. i think if irrc theres a washer behind it.

been awhile since i had one apart.

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #26
Cruel is being kind.  If it was me it would be a$$hole and ex-customer! :evilgrin:

Great thread, I enjoyed the info here and 'nice' to know I'm not alone when I tackle a job similar to this.


I'm about to embark on a total brake job (including replacing the hard line with the rust hole) :hick:  on my '97 F150.  The truck only has 80,000 miles and is very clean so I'm willing to spend time and $$ on it.

Also want to change out all of the hoses/belts/plug wires/etc since they are all original.

I've heard horror stories about the plugs in the aluminum heads...anything to fear?

Any other 'Achilles heel' on this truck I should be aware of?

Seems they will run for 200,000+ miles from what I've read on the truck forums so to me it's worth fixing right.

Thanks for all of the good info here and good luck on that special tool...amazing one is not available.
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Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #27
i dont believe the 2v mod motors had as many issues with plugs back then. i think the thread count was different which made them less susceptible to breakage and blowout.

rear rotors can be a pain kinda, if its rusted you may have to torch the adjusters out to get the ebrake shoes to loosen up.

be aware that you may have to do axle seals back there.

other then that the only job i can say i really hate doing on them trucks is a a/c compressor. those blow.

Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #28
Quote from: 84TBirdTurbo42;401240


rear rotors can be a pain kinda,


Rear drums for me and they are cleaned up every time I have them off.:hick:

Quote from: 84TBirdTurbo42;401240

other then that the only job i can say i really hate doing on them trucks is a a/c compressor. those blow.


Hopefully I don't have to deal with that, but I'll be prepared.

Thanks!
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Customers can be CRUEL!!!

Reply #29
Tom, here is the set of snap ring pliers I use. The tips have been ground down a little. This was done long ago to do Saturn wheel bearings, but I seem to remember it helped on that Ford front axle, too...
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