Polyurethane on control arms.

Topic: Polyurethane on control arms. (Read 3595 times) previous topic - next topic

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #15 – August 13, 2012, 07:57:44 PM

No, I'm good where I'm at. I'm not looking for spindles. Just went though my front control arms, the bushings, sleeves, and shells were all one piece. At 26 years old I'm sure that doesn't surprise anyone. I will have to forget putting any grease fitting's on the bushings, the shells are way too thin and I'm not going to bother welding any nuts to them (not that ambitious). Strange thing is the control arm doesn't look like it's ever had a coat of paint on it. Well, it does now.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #16 – August 13, 2012, 09:02:00 PM

I've got 03-04 Cobra front control arms, Monroe Sensatrac struts, and Monroe strut mount bushings in the front of my T-bird. I'm not sure what the bushings in the the Cobra arms are made of but they ride very nice. The ride is firm but also controlled. The car feels solid over bumps. The rear bushings on my car need to be changed though. At almost 25 years old they are pretty much shot. When the car hits a big bump at highway speeds (70 mph) the front is nice and solid but the rear kinda "jiggles" a bit side to side, at least it feels like it does.

I would suggest subframe connectors in addition to the suspension refresh. They make the car much stiffer and improve handling.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #17 – August 13, 2012, 11:09:46 PM

Quote from: thunderjet302;395932

the front is nice and solid but the rear kinda "jiggles" a bit side to side, at least it feels like it does.

My Sport did that.....till I put the CHE's on, they had poly bushings on both ends of the lowers, and the frame ends of the uppers, the upper axle ends have these aluminum bushings that I pt in the rear...it's pretty non-twitchy now, even more since I finally got the matching springs in the back. A panhard bar would take all the side to side slop out though. Wouldn't be too hard to make one, I'd think. Mounting it where it wouldn't interfere with the swaybar and quads would be more of a challenge.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #18 – August 14, 2012, 09:10:05 AM

Im gonna try poly bushings for the front sway bar, end links and trans mount. Stock rubber on the rest of the car.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #19 – August 14, 2012, 09:50:15 PM

Well, I just about have the left side front end together. Had to quit cause it's starting to rain. I never used a spring compressor before (not like rocket science), but I soon learned that I had better put an arch in the spring. I have a pretty good assortment of tools, but I'm darn sure not running an automotive shop. So, I have to get creative some times (that can be scary). I think tomorrow I'll finish taking the oil pan off (remove transmission lines and jack the engine up) just to do something different. Bet I get the right side front end done a lot quicker, now that I know a little more about what I'm doing. I really like the fact that from now on when I'm driving down the road, I'm gonna know my car pretty darn good. It helps when you know what to look for in times of trouble. Had that before with other cars, but not this one.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #20 – August 15, 2012, 07:17:38 PM

I run poly on the front with poly in the rear lowers and the rear end of the uppers with stock rubber in the front of the rear uppers along with Sensatracs all round. I'd call it a "sport setup" but not harsh. My wife has no complaints and she drives a Benz....LOL.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #21 – August 15, 2012, 11:10:27 PM

Here is a set of bushings i installed in my TYPHOON. They made a worl of difference in handling and also the ability to hold an alignment. Old fashioned bushings are a thing of the past.

Along with a new set of MOOG BALL JOINT problem solver ones properly installed and torqued to specks. Most people dont install ball joints correctly

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #22 – August 15, 2012, 11:20:56 PM

Tom,
Just curious, whey do you say most people don't install their ball joints correctly? Thanks!

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #23 – August 16, 2012, 09:11:41 AM

Quote from: 86cougar;396081

Tom,
Just curious, whey do you say most people don't install their ball joints correctly? Thanks!

x 2, more please.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #24 – August 16, 2012, 07:12:51 PM

Well people dont use the correct tools and they dont follow instructions. Some joints have to be indexed and all joints have to be torqued. I have never seen anyone torque a ball joint. Here is another example of what i am talking about. These replacement joints use bolts. But the bolts dont fit correctly after drilling out the rivets. A close look at the arm tells the story pretty clearly

I grind a flat on the washer . And by the way these joints dont come with washers. As you can see without the flat on the washer the bolt does not sit properly in the arm. I am a stickler for things like this. Check it out

Now the setup is correct and square in the arm without putting the bolt under stress from being pen 15ed by the arms design. Just me and my lust for things like this.

You will notice the nut flat is perpendicular with the on the A arm. Once again just my little quirks. But when competing in a show it makes a difference when i am judging a car. I look at things like this. It is also the correct way to install a joint the right way!!

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #25 – August 16, 2012, 08:17:35 PM

I put new ball joints in my 4x4 Chevy truck this past spring...they had washers...

It WAS a bitch getting those rivets out though. A lot of cussing, sweating, and some hot metal down my shirt. What did those foolish engineers at GM think when they decided to put a rivet on a part that doesn't last forever?

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #26 – August 17, 2012, 05:52:13 PM

They have this notion that by the time the Ball Joints wear out the car will be history. Best way i found to remove rivets is drill them. Start small and move up the line. Also an air chissel works real good also.

The moog joints normally come with self locking nuts. Personally i nave never seen a MOOG joint with split washers. Just saying!!

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #27 – August 17, 2012, 06:17:46 PM

I have used both air hammers and grinders for rivet removal. Which is easier depends greatly on the vehicle, what kind of equipment you have access to and experience level. Most of the time, in my experience, the air hammer is faster, though sometimes difficult to use in cramped quarters. Because of this fact, I tend to use the grinder instead more often than not.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #28 – August 17, 2012, 06:47:20 PM

Just my 2 cents.... I like to use a Dremal with a flexible shaft and Dremal's #456-01 cutoff wheel when I am in tight spaces. These cutoff wheels don't fragment like the old ones do.

Polyurethane on control arms.

Reply #29 – September 14, 2012, 10:25:46 PM

Today, I started to disassemble the rear end of my car. The front bushings were rock hard and glued to the sleeves. I had to cut them out. I only got as far as to take one rear end lower control arms off, but I did noticed that both wiggled from side to side about 4 inches. The bushings didn't even touch the side of the control arm and when I wiggled them and I could only hear the metal insert clanking.