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Topic: 88 5.0 bird no start (Read 3822 times) previous topic - next topic

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #15 –
all is well now, i do appreciate the 88evtm page,, again it is very very different from the same car in the 87 year.

the fuse link that was my problem was the black ones but they were deep within the plastic tubing that is under the battery tray,,within that mess resides the three parallel black 16ga links.

without the evtm, i would be guessing.

i saw that group of fuse links entering the plastic tube and thought for darn sure those must be for headlamps / related to headlamps ect but im glad i asked the question here, cleared things up real quick like.

thanks everyone

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #16 –
The three black 16 gage links b, c, and x feed seperate circuits and are not in parallel. Don't see how you can safely replace them with two heavier gage links.
Link C that feeds the ignition switch also feeds a couple of fuses. Link B feeds another group of fuses. Link X goes to the alternator regulator.
My scanner out of service, maybe TheFoeYouKnow can post page 26 Charge/Power Distribution from the EVTM for you.

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #17 –
I am curious, Jcassity, do you have a 3g alternator wired in this car?

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #18 –
For what it is worth how about this??? Those fuse links around the battery are a pain and i sometimes do this.


I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #19 –
Quote from: softtouch;395478
The three black 16 gage links b, c, and x feed seperate circuits and are not in parallel. Don't see how you can safely replace them with two heavier gage links.
Link C that feeds the ignition switch also feeds a couple of fuses. Link B feeds another group of fuses. Link X goes to the alternator regulator.
My scanner out of service, maybe TheFoeYouKnow can post page 26 Charge/Power Distribution from the EVTM for you.

I was speaking in general and using the term "parallel" for a visual discription only, yes they are separate circuits.
For your viewing pleasure and disgust, keep in mind these three 16ga black fuse links all bond to a common single yellow which then further upstream bonds to a green 14ga fuse link that is connected to the coil.
With low battery voltage conditions and max ampacity demand from the alternator, thats a huge demand on a 14ga to feed all those down stream circuits.
My clamp on showed approx 56A of continuious demand on the alternator lead with a low battery.  The battery itself was commanding approx 23A but that will go away as charge is applied.

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #20 –
Quote from: beast50;395479
I am curious, Jcassity, do you have a 3g alternator wired in this car?

yep, sure do

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #21 –
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/advice-on-fusible-link-to-maxi-fuse-what-amperages.819889/

Good info on what amperage to select when swapping links for fuses.  remember that the table refers to the size of the circuit, not the size of the link.

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #22 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;395519
For what it is worth how about this??? Those fuse links around the battery are a pain and i sometimes do this.



well, just for the record, i deleted all three of them for a good reason.
They are all three tied to the one common green fuse link which i kept.
this will help eliminate probable faults later.
As softtouch said, all three black links protect three or so separate down stream circuits, one of which delivers power to the ign sw. At the end of the day, all three 16ga black links are protected by the one single green to yellow fuse link terminal at the starter relay.  This may only be true for the 88year,, would be interesting to see if this is true or not, will compare to my 87 2Oth.  Anyone with an 87sport chime in.

a few pics of the area
down low near the battery holder is a round spot in my harness of trouble that represents the several wires i bonded to a 4awg burndy barrel lug.  Prior to crimping, i slipped over a farily large diameter 1 or so inch long rubber boot that i trimmed off from a spark plug boot.  i crimped it then slipped the boot over then taped.

The only benefit i see in having these three separate 16awgfuse links is for circuit isolation, in my opinion, the upstream fuse link still carried the burrden of all three downstream small awg links so its moot to me.  When the green one fails, at least the car will not have accy ckts working but no start making it really clear to me there is a fuse link issue and now, only one to repair.

I looked at he green fuse link and its called out to be 14awg, after disecting a spare and using my cir/mil copper measuring device, it appears this is not actually 14awg but somewhere along 15 and further i would estimate its closer to 16 than 14.  oddly enough, i compared the spare OEM fuse link to a ANSI/IEEE equivilant 14awg "FLEX" not "STR" wire and the 14awg UL listed non halogen wire i have is just at 14awg and also feels stiffer and also looks bigger.

Its my belief that ford used "str" wire and not "flex" (flex of which has a higher currrent carrying capacity.

either way, try not to flame throw, i entertained the idea of a mega fuse and to be honest, i worry that the fuse by defaut like most fuses is rated to carry 1.5x its nameplate rating which means you may actually need to experience 75A of inrush or over current in order to trip the fuse.  This being said, that would be soely depending on a  highly calibrated fuse element as well.  Power in general happens be be my job so take it for what its worth.  Circuit breakers however typically are rated to 1.25 thier name plate rating and in some cases some breakers have shunt trip which gives them a dead on Trip rating and worth thier weight.

I am seriously considering setting mason up with a few slave relays but since its already been done, i dont want to re-envent the wheel and would rather work with someones tested and tried method.  Might as well not wing it eh.

so back on point, i have one single green 14awg oem fuse link now in command of this circuit but am seriously considering adding a calibrated Heinemann 50A DC circuit breaker in its place which will also come equipped with aux contacts to light up an "in the dash" LED showing the breaker has tripped. 

either way, we all know the oem wiring could be sized at the lease one size larger in most all areas...that we could all agree on.

now let the bashing begin for my cutting out the fuse links.

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #23 –
I still like intelligently selected fuses, but you're the one who has to live with the car and work on it, so when it comes to YOUR car, I'm prepared to go with YOUR preference.  It's nice clean looking work in any case.  Good job.

88 5.0 bird no start

Reply #24 –
fuse would be simpler for sure.