Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

huh, I was told differently on this form 3 years ago....

And if you have a DA1 eec, you can have a chip burned for the mods you have, and the SD eec will not give 2 fat s whether you have a big cam, a small cam or 3 cams up your butt...*as long as their is a chip to tell it to respond accordingly*

Any obstacle can be overcame with time, ingenuity, or money to pay someone else for the hard work. A large cam on a SD eec is not difficult. But, as pointed out, it's easier to swap to MAF and be done with...after all, Ford engineers and programmers did the work.

OP, run your codes first, somethings may not need replaced. Get a book and a meter, and learn to test suspected components as well. I had a coolant temp sensor that went out of range on a 302 in my 92 truck...caused a lot of grief till I pulled the codes and it happened to be one on the list. I tested it..and it was bad. I'd never have suspected it. New one solved the issue.

That's an example

Actually, lots of sd computers have 3.0 tarus stamped onto them too...

It probably had a stock cam and a vacuum leak.

It would be good advise for you to follow as well. The 3.0 taurus only sticker is well know and shows up under a quick google search. Many mark7 and 87-88 sd mustangs had them as well.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/444662-87-mustang-taurus-computer.html

Only part of my post that was assumed was that it probably had a stock cam. Everymustang guy out there says he has $5000 into the engine, a swapped cam and 500hp. High school kids are ever worse.

Basically the only thing that would make a stock engine run better under mass air is a bad vacuum source. Swapping to mass air would have made it seem to run better because the computer no long mesures the incoming air the same. On sd it solely relies on vacuum, on mass air, only mass air.

If you unplug the vacuum line to your map sensor on a sd system, you'll get about 4mpg and leave black soot under your tail pip, and it will run like . When you floor it, it runs "normal". This is becaue vacuum disapears under throttle, making the computer think you are floored, making the car run very rich, and idle very cruddy.

It was probably a bad grounding pin or burned up ecm.

Think before you post next time.

All of the plastic fittings on the vac lines, and the vac distribution block like to crack, making it hard to find leaks. You can buy a new block from ford, and new fittings from any autoparts dealer. If you have deleted egr or emissions equipment, there are a lot of extra vac lines floating around.

The map sensor should have its own port. If your motor mounts are bad, the line will flex with your engine torque and wear the line out.

You also assumed there was a vacuum leak when there wasn't.  The computer they had was coded for a taurus/sable, not just a sticker...you weren't there, you didn't look it up, you don't know.  BTW, a high post count doesn't equal greater knowledge,in your case it simply shows a higher level of spewing mis-information from time to time.

Were you ever able to scam anybody out of a transmission yet?  I know it didn't work on me, good look in the future though.

YOU are the reason I'm glad that I'm not a regular here anymore.

Oh and btw, evc systems are batch fire, so the computer doesn't know or care how many cylinders the car has when it comes to firing fuel injectors. Each bank is fired at the same time.

Also a bad map sensor input is one of the only things that will make your car shoot black smoke out of the tail pipe. If its a bad o2 sensor or temp sensor, the computer will run in fail safe mode. I haven't had low manifold pressure throw a code before, not saying it can't though.