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Topic: Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1 (Read 14892 times) previous topic - next topic

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #15 –
Id' say time for a plug reading... and maybe some wire swapping.

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #16 –
It very well may be time to swap them. They are two years old, and up until Saturday, all was well.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #17 –


Insert paperclip.



Test light goes from sig out(*edited*) to negetive battery cable.

Turn on key, count codes just like you would a "code reader" it will light up the check engine light if installed on the dash, if it does, no need for a test light.

Here's some light reading on running cdes, and what they mean.

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=2471.0

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Save links to favorites, look totally pro with just a paperclip.

I just rea lized that I should have put sig out to ground for the test light. Sig rtn should be the sensor ground...

Still waiting vin.

I get an ice cold drink, recline the seat back, insert paper clip, turn key forwards to ream koeo and cm codes, you can cycle on and off several times if you miss one. Then I do a koer test and run 3 engine cylinder balance tests in a row. Then I bring my ice cold drink and pen and paper inside, sit at the computer and read definitions and see if any match my symptoms. If they do, you can test most sensors with just a multi meter to make sure they are in range, then replace/adjust what's broke.

You can do most of it in minutes without even getting dirty.

If you get multipul sensor codes, it can be a bad or open ground on sigrtn, or pins 20,40, or 60, or the wire by the negetive cable. I almost find troubleshooting fun now. I fought reading codes forever, now I just feel stuip for not doing it the first time.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #18 –
The sbftech link shows you how to do a cylinder test, as well as having some video's to show codes. You should only have two digit codes.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #19 –
O.K., I swapped the module, but got caught up right after that with family stuff. I'll grab a battery tomorrow and use my code checker (It has the book to decipher the codes), and see what turns up. Also, I'll give the car a test run in the morning on the way to the gym and have a report after that. I appreciate you guys and the help. Everyone has been so great here. I think I'll stick around.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #20 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;392228
I think I'll stick around.

I think you're a keeper. ;):bowdown: :rollin:
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #21 –
Fords have an issue when spark plug wires from consecutive cylinders (in the firing order) are run next to each other for any length causin an "inductive" current from one wire to the other causing a misfire. Since you said you did the coil recently, maybe you got a couple wires too close together. I forget which cylinders on the 302, if I find it I'll add it.
 
It's 7-8 on SO and 6-5 on HO.  They need to be seperated on the wiring loom.

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #22 –
The wires are all laid out, and separated. The coil has been on for a year or so.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #23 –
, I meant cap and rotor, just suggesting the simple things first.

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #24 –
I have them laid out pretty straight. I think it's something else.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #25 –
Might be something you can't see. Try a different cap. If problem is still there, kill the spark to the cylinders one by one to isolate which cylinder it is. It will be the one where there is no change. Then, it will be the plug, wire, or injector on that cylinder. I agree with Tom. Most likely ignition. Is that dist a DUI? I have been curious about those.

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #26 –
The idle is still steady. Not a heavy miss.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #27 –
Run the ccodes. If it sennsor related, it should have a code either stored in continous memory, or as an active code. If its a sparkplug/fuel injector/ compression problem, it should show up in a cylinder ballance test. If nothing comes up, then you start hitting general matinence things.

First step should always be codes though.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #28 –
Not trying to be mean, but it is litterly a 5 minute thing.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1

Reply #29 –
Bad / old fuel?
Mike