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Keyless entry install How-to

After seeing bryan163's post about installing a keyless entry system, I decided I would go ahead and give it a try.  It was pretty easy to install, so if you have been thinking about getting one, do it!  Please note that this how-to is how I installed MY system.  Read the supplied instructions and use this how-to at your own risk.

The system I used was the Bulldog Security KE1702.  It is $50 at Autozone, but I have seen it online for as cheap as $30.  It has lock, unlock, trunk release, starter immobilizer, and parking light confirmation.  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/Products/453055507-model-ke1702-vehicle-keyless-entry-system.aspx




The package comes with the main module, the wiring harness, starter immobilizer relay, two remotes, stickers, and instructions. 




I chose not to install the starter immobilizer just out of fear that it would fail and I would be unable to start the car.  I have seen this happen with other alarms.  I used the relay they provided for the immobilizer for the parking light confirmation instead.  It required changing the wiring of it, but it is not very difficult.  Bulldog also sells the prewired relays for the parking lights and trunk release on their website.  I just used a generic automotive relay I had laying around for the trunk release though. 

The instructions say to install the module behind the dash, but I chose to put it under the passenger seat by the factory power lock relays.  Most of the wires I needed were there already.

My car had a power seat from the factory but I installed manual seats for weight savings.  I left the wiring under the center console though and I used it for the keyless entry.  It is fused at the required amps and was convenient.  Here is how I wired it.

I suggest rolling down a window (to prevent locking yourself out) and unhooking your battery at this point.

Module wiring:
Red - This wire needs to be hooked up to a 12v constant source.  I used the power seat wire which is black with a white stripe
Black - This is the system ground wire.  It has an eyelet end and I just attached it under the bolt that holds the power lock relay bracket.
Purple and purple w/black - This wire also needs 12v constant.  I connected this to the same black with white stripe wire as the red wire above.

Locks:  The Fox cars without factory keyless use a "C" type lock system (see instructions for more info)  You have to cut factory wiring and wire the new keyless system inbetween.  I was hesitant about this at first, but it is easy.  The two wires you need to cut come from the relays under the seat.




The first wire to cut is the pink with orange stripe wire on the left relay (unlock relay.)  Cut the wire a few inches away from the relay because you will need to hook both sides of the cut wire to new wires.  Attach the side coming from the relay to the brown with black stripe wire in the keyless harness.  Attach the other side of pink with orange stripe wire you cut (the side that goes into the harness) to the blue with black stripe wire in the keyless harness.






Now we are going to do the same thing with the relay on the right (lock relay.)  Locate the pink with black stripe wire coming from the relay and cut it a few inches from the relay.  Attach the side coming from the relay to the white with black stripe wire in the keyless harness.  Attach the other end of the cut wire to the green with black stripe wire.






At this point you can hook your battery back up to test out the lock and unlock on your remote BUT MAKE SURE the wires we haven't used yet from the harness are not touching metal or each other.  You can skip the rest of these instructions if you do not want the parking light confirmation feature or the trunk release feature.  If you do stop here, make sure you tape up all unused wires!

Wiring the parking light confirmation and trunk release requires the use of relays.  It helps to have a basic knowledge of how they work and how to wire them, but I will tell you what posts need to be wired to what.

Parking light confirmation:
This feature flashes the parking lights once for locking and twice for unlocking (and keeps them on for about 10 seconds) and also flashes once when the trunk release is activated.  You will need to gain access to a wire behind the dash.  The wire comes is brown and comes from the main light switch but you can tap into it behind the glove box at the clock/tripminder harness.  After you have tapped into this wire and routed it to your liking, the relay will be wired like this:
85 - This terminal should be supplied with 12v constant.
86 - This terminal should be connected to the brown wire in the keyless harness.
87 - This terminal should be connected to the brown wire we tapped into behind the glove box.
30 - This terminal should be supplied with 12v constant.  I connected this terminal and terminal 85 together then connected them both to the black with white stripe wire supplying the power to the keyless module.

Brown wire location:



Plug the battery back in (if you unplugged it) and make sure everything is working properly by pressing the lock and unlock buttons on your remote.  Your parking lights should flash with each button press.


Trunk release:
This feature opens the trunk and flashes the parking lights once to confirm.  The wire you need to tap into for this is also behind the glove box at the trunk release switch and runs down the edge of the passenger floorboard to the trunk.  I tapped into it close to the lock relays because I don't have carpet.  The wire you need is purple with a yellow stripe although my yellow stripe was pretty faded.  Here is the relay wiring.
85 - This terminal should be supplied with 12v constant.
86 - This terminal should be connected to the brown wire in the keyless harness.
87 - This terminal should be connected to the purple with yellow stripe wire we tapped into.
30 - This terminal should be supplied with 12v constant.  I connected this terminal and terminal 85 together then connected them both to the black with white stripe wire supplying the power to the keyless module.


You are all done!  Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmqJ2WeMkuQ
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #1
Thanks for the walk through!  I had not considered the ease of access of the relays under the seat.  It does make it a much simpler task!

And now for an unanswered question!  Could the button for the starter immobilizer be used to activate a relay to pop the fuel door?  It appears there are 4 buttons (lock & unlock the doors, pop the trunk and the immobilizer).  If that is correct, it should be as simple as adding another relay and accessing the wire by the glove box, correct?

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #2
There is no button for the starter immobilizer.  It switches on and off with the lock and unlock buttons.  I would guess the wire for the immobilizer is hot when the system is in the "unlock" mode triggering the power to the starter circuit.  Unfortunately, their isn't another trigger wire available.  I think the remote supplied with the system is also used in some of their alarm systems and the red button acts as a panic button there but as far as I can tell it is only used for programming other remotes in this system.  Sucks because I totally would have wired up a fuel door release.  I always forget to push the  button before I get out, lol.
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #3
There isn't actually a button for the immobilizer. It immobilizes automatically when you lock the car with the remote. There is however a spare button on the remote that could be used for that purpose.

turbo charged 94 Cobra engine/440cc injectors/megasquirt /5 speed swapped (T5)/maxbox upper intake/70mm PP throttle body/AJE coilovers/2003 Mustang control arms/S.T. sway bars/ES rear control arm bushings/11" brake conversion/manual rack conversion/8.8 TC rear with rear discs and a welded diff/3.73 gears/PLX wideband/199mph speedometer/Aeromotive FPR/CNC hydraulic hand brake/cobra R wheels/....ect.

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #4
You beat me to it.^  I thought there was another available circuit for the red button though.

turbo charged 94 Cobra engine/440cc injectors/megasquirt /5 speed swapped (T5)/maxbox upper intake/70mm PP throttle body/AJE coilovers/2003 Mustang control arms/S.T. sway bars/ES rear control arm bushings/11" brake conversion/manual rack conversion/8.8 TC rear with rear discs and a welded diff/3.73 gears/PLX wideband/199mph speedometer/Aeromotive FPR/CNC hydraulic hand brake/cobra R wheels/....ect.

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #5
I don't think there is.  The only two wires not being used in my install were the starter immobilizer wire and the factory alarm shut down wire and those have a defined purpose that probably wouldn't work for an extra circuit.  I would have to do some testing to determine for sure though.
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #6
You're probably right. I never checked to see if the wires were there. That's a bummer. I liked the gas door idea.

turbo charged 94 Cobra engine/440cc injectors/megasquirt /5 speed swapped (T5)/maxbox upper intake/70mm PP throttle body/AJE coilovers/2003 Mustang control arms/S.T. sway bars/ES rear control arm bushings/11" brake conversion/manual rack conversion/8.8 TC rear with rear discs and a welded diff/3.73 gears/PLX wideband/199mph speedometer/Aeromotive FPR/CNC hydraulic hand brake/cobra R wheels/....ect.

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #7
Quote from: Loaded87IROC;388745
Sucks because I totally would have wired up a fuel door release.  I always forget to push the  button before I get out, lol.

I'm with you there!

Though I haven't researched it, I suspect there is a unit (read more expensive...) out there which has an additional feature (like remote start) that might offer the option for the fuel door.

Really glad you posted the walk through!  I wouldn't have considered a keyless at all without it (couldn't cope with the idea of crawling under the dash searching out the wiring and finding a spot to mount the "brain").

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #8
I'm sure that there are more expensive units out there that have multiple outputs for stuff like that.  I was hesitant to do something like this too but it is easy and very handy to have.  I only regret not installing one of these sooner.
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #9
Its funny I plan on installing one of these soon as I get my power locks installed but this walkthrough does nothing for me since none of my related wiring is/will be factory lol. I even had to install my trunk pop switch and wiring lol. But hey, here's a question:

Do all of these units run on individual frequencies? As in some guy in the car next to you installed the same unit (not that unlikely really) and goes to unlock his car, its not going to unlock yours as well would it?
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

 

Keyless entry install How-to

Reply #10
Sorry Steve, but at least since you are doing all the wiring yourself you will know exactly what wires to use!  I would like to think they all have their own frequency or the remote is coded to the specific remote but I suppose anything is possible.
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver