A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Topic: A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! (Read 45518 times) previous topic - next topic

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #180 – April 08, 2013, 10:17:01 PM

Quote from: 1BadBird;412910

I have a 00' GT k-member with 94' tubular LCAs, 00' spindles, cobra 13" brakes up front. I'm curious as to what mine will turn out like with the 9's I want. What offset are those wheels??

Boy, I thought I had a mix of parts!

Both the front & back wheels are OTS units for a '99-'04 Mustang. IIRC, back space on the front wheels is just under 6" (5.98"), what ever that equates to in offset...

I used a Wheelrite tool to help get me in the ball park, but a borrowed set of wheels really helped me to visualize what was/wasn't going to fit.

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #181 – April 08, 2013, 10:24:30 PM

LOL. I forgot to mention the coil overs on the front. I've got more too :hick: 03' cobra IRS, Cobra T-45, and of course the 4.6 DOHC with a recently aquired (slightly shortened runners) Cobra intake that I want to polish.

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #182 – April 08, 2013, 11:07:49 PM

If you want a REALLY messed up setup, 87/88 tbird K member, MM fox 3/4" forward Tubular control arms, 03 mustang spindles, MM coilover kits on koni's with 7" springs currently, and going to 6" springs for springrate.

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #183 – April 09, 2013, 01:29:50 AM

Or an 03 Mustang K-member if you want those motor mounts!

Measured my 88 T-bird K-member and dads 03 Mustang one and it's all the same measurements between the holes for the bolts!

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #184 – April 09, 2013, 06:15:27 AM

Well, if we are gonna play this "ooops I screwed myself on wheel fitment" game I will take a lil out of each of your lists:

Tubular fox kmember(wider, forward, and raised LCA pickups), sn95 length control arms, 94/5 spindles, 13" brakes, and the IRS out back. 7" coils on the front struts saved my bacon fitting the +45 offset 9" wheels to keep em under the stock fenders

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #185 – April 13, 2013, 12:53:09 AM

Mark: Looking good.

I didn't notice that the MAF was rolled to the bottom of the pipe. you might have the car running and roll the maf back to the top and see if it change the A/F
Just an ideal

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #186 – April 13, 2013, 08:08:29 AM

Have you driven the car yet? What I mean is the AFR better with load...just cruisen?

Travis

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #187 – April 13, 2013, 08:43:55 AM

The MAF is rolled under to minimize the turbulence the sensor sees due to the blow-thru set up. It won't idle at all, if I move it.

Haven't driven it yet. Goes dead lean if I crack the throttle.

I'm working on the punch list of other items & will then address the lean issue. Got three items off the list on Thursday night & a couple partially done.

Can't touch it till next weekend, but will have another distraction come Sunday, a 9 week old pup!

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #188 – April 13, 2013, 09:30:08 PM

Well Mark...if it was me...sense you just changed the fuel pump. I would go into the VE tables in BE and multiply everything by 20%(please save the current tune before you mess with it :) ). If the car is abit more drivable then it maybe a tune issue...or a bad sensor..MAP/BAP???

If that doesnt really change anything then I would think...fuel pump or something related to the physical installation.

Travis

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #189 – April 14, 2013, 06:47:49 PM

Quote from: turbotrav;413236

Well Mark...if it was me...sense you just changed the fuel pump. I would go into the VE tables in BE and multiply everything by 20%(please save the current tune before you mess with it :) ). If the car is abit more drivable then it maybe a tune issue...or a bad sensor..MAP/BAP???

If that doesn't really change anything then I would think...fuel pump or something related to the physical installation.

Travis

Thanks Travis. Greg (5.8fastcat), suggested that as well. I'll check the wiring on the MAP to ensure the plug is fully seated. The sensor is new. Fuel pressure is right on 40 PSI with the line pulled, though it drops with the line on, due to 15" of vacuum.

Appreciate the help.

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #190 – April 16, 2013, 01:02:27 PM

Well Mark...fastcat knows his stuff...

Your fuel pressure seems fine.

Travis

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #191 – April 16, 2013, 03:18:04 PM

Quote from: turbotrav;413368

Well Mark...fastcat knows his stuff...

Your fuel pressure seems fine.

Travis

I'm hoping it's as simple as adjusting the tables. As you mentioned, if that doesn't take care of it, I've got mechanical issues. One step as time..

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #192 – April 16, 2013, 05:03:27 PM

Yeah Buddy

Now I think about it...could be the VE tables...MAF voltage/ground, power to the fuel pump, gremlins.... :)

Travis

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #193 – April 28, 2013, 10:38:35 PM

Been working away on the punch list!

Started at 17 and had a few items add on as some have come off. The litany of of two trial assemblies (each resulting in some type of modification), with the third being the charm(mostly), continues. The list is now down to 12.

A challenging & interesting learning curve was setting Bump-Steer. I purchased the tie rod kit from Maximum Motorsports plus the tool required to measure bump-steer (not much use in buying the tie rods if you can't make sure it's adjusted properly!).

The basics to set it, involve: First setting the toe to zero and then remove the springs & sway bar links. This allows the suspension to have a full range of motion without tension. From there it's setting up the tool and doing a base line measurement. The baseline will indicate where to start with either adding or subtracting shims.

It was a tedious process (it took us a full day...), but it was surprising how much toe deflection was minimized as the suspension moved (almost zero in first inch up and down) by proper adjustment.

The installation of the inner wheel wells took a bit due to the -8an fuel lines (two feed & one return, plus the -4an line for the Meth system) which now run through passenger side wheel well. Additional complications included the rolled fender lips and some tpuppies of the K-member to ensure there was no interference with tire clearance.

A necessary modification was adding sound insulation to the hood. You may have heard the straight cut gears of a oil fed Procharger are loud, let me give a point of reference: This things screams enough at idle to drowned out a shouting conversation when the hood is open!

To help mute this, I purchased some Dynamat hood insulation. Making use of cardboard templates allowed the small piece of material to be cut strategically to cover the majority of the under hood surface. Thankfully is was effective!

A couple wild cards which came up while working down the list:

Unable to reinstall the strut tower brace without modification. The RPM II is much taller than a GT-40 tubular unit. To correct it, the tubing had to be cut, bent, re-welded and repainted. These changes are expected to completed this week and installed next weekend.

Clutch cable issues with the dual disc clutch: Within the last week, a thread on clutch engagement issues with dual disc clutches came up on Corral in the Supercharger section. I found it a good read and it raised questions in my mind as to if I too may have issues. Today, found the answer to be yes! The plan is to look for a way to modify the cable to gain additional length, which may take care of the problem.

A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage!

Reply #194 – April 28, 2013, 10:44:54 PM

that looks clean