ler

Topic: ler (Read 5576 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #30 – February 22, 2012, 06:12:55 AM

I was also dumping right before the rear axle.

That is illegal and should be avoided. Exhausts must exit past the rear axle in most states unless OE designed. Also the fuems can enter the cabin with a design this way. Not judging just giving info. But i know many that do it. By the way the shorter the piping the louder the system even with lers. As i point out it is a system and any changes reflect back pressure and Noise.

ler

Reply #31 – February 22, 2012, 10:50:04 AM

Yes, I agree, and that was part of the reason I got rid of that setup. It was really only supposed to be temp anyway b/c I was curious about how the glasspack would sound and it was easier to rip my tailpipe out and dump it than it was to tie it in. Although, using a side exit system really is not that bad and I am considering doing it again when I put my 50's on.

ler

Reply #32 – February 23, 2012, 03:09:29 AM

If you want power, the less exhaust you have, a majority of the time, not always, is almost always going to be faster. Even if it loses power on a dyno, it will be faster. If your exhaust is free flowing enough, the engine isn't going to care if it has a cross over pipe or not. If your running 2" primary's (very common for high rpm 302 based motors), your restriction is going to be after the collector, and the scavanging will occour well before cross over pipe. It really doesn't make any sense that bottling a exhaust system to connect it with a tube farther down the line would be faster then dumps.

Now making it work on a car where you drive everywhere, take anywhere do anything, you might not be happy with a 2" collector, 8000+ redline, a 4" dumps. But if you are racing a car and it does not have to pass emissions or state saftey tests, your not looking for maximum performance out of your engine.

To answer the op's question, you can order the entire tail pipe from autozone. I would buy the cheapest ler in the correct size. I replaced the entire cat back on my 88 wagon for $80, including lers.

ler

Reply #33 – February 23, 2012, 05:43:52 AM

If you want power, the less exhaust you have, a majority of the time, not always, is almost always going to be faster. Even if it loses power on a dyno

EXPLAIN HOW THIS WORKS ??????????????????????

ler

Reply #34 – February 23, 2012, 11:03:35 AM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;381528

If you want power, the less exhaust you have, a majority of the time, not always, is almost always going to be faster. Even if it loses power on a dyno

EXPLAIN HOW THIS WORKS ??????????????????????

This happens when you go to certain web sites populated by know-it alls who spout things as fact without clarifying that THE COMBINATION matters ... they say things like "That is a myth" or "Old School " thinking and "Every car will be faster in the 1/4 mile with open headers no matter what" .
Now what is actually true is sometimes an engine can show a slight drop in "dyno hp" but actually accelerate through he RPM band faster .

ler

Reply #35 – February 23, 2012, 11:49:34 AM

Full tube headers? Dumps? We have gone way beyond a simple question of ler replacemet. Not just after power here. He wants a good sound as well. A small rumble is all he can hope for without it sounding like total . Besides, I don't think we should be getting so carried away here with exhaust. It's just a 3.8 V6. Only so much flow can be achieved before we just start spinning our wheels.

ler

Reply #36 – February 23, 2012, 01:18:22 PM

Easily, hp is just a number. To basis of which power is mesured on its own, is flawed. Similar to how mpg is about the worst way to mesure mileage. It should be gallons per mile. Taking a car from 40 to 50mpg saves virtally no gas compared to a car that goes from 14 to 18mpg, over the same trip. Mesured in gallons per mile, the numbers are way more accurate.

Hp is mesured using a calculation between torque and rpm's. Going to light weight brakes on your rear axle, lowers your rwhp. Because you have less rotating weight, the calculation assumes you have less power, even though the car will accelerate quicker. Same with gearing. A lower gear ration will have more rwhp then the same car with high gearing, while not always being faster.

I have been told many times I am wrong, but I honestly cannot belive that the best way to get power out of an engine, is to restrict everything coming out of it. If the car is not tuned correcty, that is one thing. But an engine will be more efficent, with better air flow, as long as you can keep up with the fuel.

Which car would be faster, one that dyno's 450hp, or a car with only 425hp? Let's assume everything is the same as far as weight, chassi, base of engine.

Let's say the 450hp, reaches that power at 4000rpm. And the 425hp car makes it at 7500rpms. Even if the gearing was matched, my money would be on the car with 425hp.

So once again, hp is just a number that can only give you a primitive calculation, that is only as good as the information you put into it. If you cannot acurately read the hp to begin with, then you cannot compare it directly to another car. You can however, compare all the parimiters together and get a good idea of what's going on.

At the end of the day, if you want to brag about dyno numbers, go hang out at the corral where every mustang has 500hp on a stock block and runs 13's.

ler

Reply #37 – February 23, 2012, 05:04:44 PM

Quote from: Chrome;381559

Full tube headers? Dumps? We have gone way beyond a simple question of ler replacemet. Not just after power here. He wants a good sound as well. A small rumble is all he can hope for without it sounding like total . Besides, I don't think we should be getting so carried away here with exhaust. It's just a 3.8 V6. Only so much flow can be achieved before we just start spinning our wheels.

Hey I answered the OP to the best of my ability...

ler

Reply #38 – February 23, 2012, 06:29:23 PM

Easily, hp is just a number.

Thats right the more you have the better it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fascinating Just fascinating to say the least.

Engine dynes and chassis dynes are two different animals.

This engine we delivered and when it was installed in the car lost HP on the chassis dyne.(all engines do of course) When engines are installed in the car and tested it looses HP. That is why i normally dont post the HP Numbers. Unless the customer insists on it like this one. Chassis dynos are the bottom line PERIOD. The customer was extremely happy with the numbers at a price tag of 5 GRAND. But in the real world that car will be destroyed on the street with this low HP number. That engine most likely made around 380 To the wheels or so. Anemic to say the least. But it only cost him 5 big ones.

HP LOSS

Definitive formula around -15% for manual and between 18-22% for autos.

If you are using a Dynojet both drum speed and engine speed are measured and used to take out any effects of gear torque multiplication. so please rethink that statement!!!

If the car is not tuned correctly, that is one thing.

This statement is correct. But you fail to understand exhaust is part of tuning. Or didn't you know that!!!!!

ler

Reply #39 – February 23, 2012, 07:26:08 PM

Yeah everyone's posting like I'm going to be racing Nascar...just wanted a suggestion on some good sounding lers,Setups,etc. Not looking to gain any horsepower/could care less this car will be a dd only good for spanking Geo Metro's and ricers.

ler

Reply #40 – February 23, 2012, 07:40:12 PM

Sounds good I will bow out. Just thought you would like to know the facts. Sorry for clouding the conversation with facts i should have known better. Thanks

ler

Reply #41 – February 23, 2012, 07:44:38 PM

I like the way flowtech's sound on my V8..... I'd do some searching on youtube, that's how I ended up with what I got.

ler

Reply #42 – February 23, 2012, 08:36:06 PM

Again, I would highly suggest a Magnaflow. Great deep low rumble. If your looking for cheap then go the thrush route though. I paid about $35 for my ler. And honestly, I think the glasspacks sound awesome, and they cost only $20.

These should give you some ideas, and there's plenty more out there on youtube to look up:

Single glasspack with stock y pipe and cats:

[video=youtube;I71vk8BSmX8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I71vk8BSmX8[/video]

[video=youtube;rFSpSBAKDME]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFSpSBAKDME[/video]

Magnaflow with stock y pipe and cats:

[video=youtube;B8jSt7Q7sq4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8jSt7Q7sq4[/video]

thrush welded with stock y pipe and cats:

[video=youtube;YBwsZxGOzm8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBwsZxGOzm8[/video]

my car with thrush welded and catless y pipe:

[video=youtube;-TpzGlINy_4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TpzGlINy_4[/video]

ler

Reply #43 – February 23, 2012, 11:37:36 PM

Thanks Steve! That was helpful. I had a 66 Mustang with an I6 and a cherry bomb. It sounded much worse than those. Yours sounds fantastic at idle. As for the upper RPM, I feel that duals with a crossover would quiet it down a bit and make it sound less chaotic. To each his own. Don't mean to put down your ride, it is an incredible machine and you have done a great job with it.

ler

Reply #44 – April 18, 2012, 12:10:57 AM

So after hearing sarjxxx's cougar I fell in love with the thrush welds. I decided to get them and wow does it make a huge difference.